Running rough when cold

pistolpete

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Hi guys

I started my new to me bike from cold today (first time since getting it home), 2007, 34k, home serviced for the past 5 years!!! and it sounds as if its about to self destruct when on idle, it seems as if the auto choke if there is such a thing is not working as it idles at about 1000rpm when cold but when its warmed up it runs perfectly, pulls clean and idles nicely when you come to a stop, my old GS didnt exhibit any of these signs when cold. I have booked in with an for a service on Monday, not with the dealer but a good independent. Hopefully all it needs is a good service and plugged into the computer to reset and update anything that needs updated

Any ideas or have i just answered my own question :confused:

Cheers Pete
 
A too slow tickover will usually sound rough.

Could be a misfire on one side. Does one header pipe get hot faster then the other.


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Hi Bendy

I just started it up and the left header pipe got hotter slightly quicker than the right side :confused: but not so quickly that you could touch one and not the other if you know what I mean, sounds like a bag of spanners until I gave it a couple of blips and the idle seems to settle down, and the vibrations settle to normal from 'oh shit' my wife says I am 'MOTORCYCLE HYPOCHONDRIAC' and that I need help :augie
 
Pete There is no "choke"

What happens is when teh motor is cold the ECU extends the fuel injection opening time allowing more fuel in

More fuel is no good without air to help it burn

So the Choke lever on 1100 1150 models just opens the butterfly slightly and its under your control

On the 1200 the idle control valves are supposed to lift a little higher

Did you reconnect the battery by any chance

If so just go a ride and it will learn the stuff it needs


Did you used to have a Mid Blue Metallic R1100RT by any chance??
 
Pete There is no "choke"

What happens is when teh motor is cold the ECU extends the fuel injection opening time allowing more fuel in

More fuel is no good without air to help it burn

So the Choke lever on 1100 1150 models just opens the butterfly slightly and its under your control

On the 1200 the idle control valves are supposed to lift a little higher

Did you reconnect the battery by any chance

If so just go a ride and it will learn the stuff it needs


Did you used to have a Mid Blue Metallic R1100RT by any chance??

Thanks for the reply

No not me I had a 1150gs then 1200gs then Triumph Explorer and back to a 1200gs, not sure what you mean by re-connecting the battery, I disconnected it to reset the TPS and connected it back up again? I have a feeling there may be a problem with the idle control valves as you say as the revs are not lifting when they are supposed to ie the reason I thought the auto choke wasnt working when the engine is cold? It is booked in with Geoff Kernohan on Monday morning for a service so hopefully he can sort it out as a few of us are heading to Doolin on the west coast for 5 days at the start of June :beer:

Also ive just checked the old mot certs and the guy I got it off done 1000 miles last year!! and home serviced it for 5 years!!

I think your right I just need to ride the bugger

Thanks for the help/advice/knowledge DrFarkoff, bendytoy

Pete
 
Last edited:
You might want to try a TPS reset.

Turn the ignition 'on' (but don't start the engine)
Move the throttle grip smoothly through its full range five or six times, finishing at fully closed
Turn the ignition 'off'

Job done.
 
Mine had similar symptoms in the early days of primary coil failure. Of course that means little right now but keep a look-out anyway. North Oxford BMW told me the older coils can fail on miles under 50K (as mine did) or on old age.


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Mine had similar symptoms in the early days of primary coil failure. Of course that means little right now but keep a look-out anyway. North Oxford BMW told me the older coils can fail on miles under 50K (as mine did) or on old age.


Sent from a widget that can't spell.

Well even if it is coil's they should be easy/cheap enough to replace? I will keep an eye on everything and report back once the service has been done

:beerjug:
 
Just got it back after the service and it still idle's like a bag of shit when cold and seems to be just about ticking over and noisy, give her a few rev's and once warmed up a bit it settles down and idle's nicely. The throttle bodies were well out and the tappets were very loose apparently. It now rides really well when out of the lower rev range, still noisy though. Looks like i am just going to have to learn to live with it and give her a wee help with the throttle when cold, ear plugs help no end
 
What fuel are you using? I find running mine on 98ron makes a big difference to running on 95ron.

Maybe it just doesn't like getting up in the morning:confused:

Neil
 
PistolPete
Defoe worth a try. I collected mine from a service 2 months ago and it was running like a pig and lots of vibrations. I took it back to the workshop and we scratched our heads together and went through everything but nothing had been done to upset it apart from an ecu reset which happens when the service indicator was reset. The mechanic and I agreed that if the ecu values had been returned to factory settings and running on 95ron it might be the cause. I normally run 98 when in France and 95 in jersey because we only have one petrol station with 98 and they rob you for the pleasure. When I returned it to the workshop he hooked it up to the BMW computer and all was well.

I filled it up with 98 and it was greatly improved within a few miles. Vibrations gone and much better acceleration. I'm sure someone will come along and disagree that the fuel can have such a profound effect but I don't care. It worked for my bike.

I generally use 98 now but at £9 per tankful more than 95 I do use 95 too however now that the ecu has 'had a quiet word with itself' (technical jargon) using 95 for the odd tankful seems okay.

Fingers crossed.

Neil
 
Neil

I will be trying a tank full tomorrow, I also think that as the bike has been home serviced for the past 5 years and the throttle bodies etc were miles out and the fact it only covered 1000 miles in the past year, it needs a good hard ride :drool just like its going to get tomorrow and as Drfarkoff said the ECU will re-learn all it needs, the only reason that im not overly concerned at the minute is because it runs as sweet as a nut when its warmed up a bit and I think if there were any major problems then it would run like shite all the time, well I hope

Yes I am with you on the fuel front, I drive a Fabia VRS 1.4TSI and you must run at least 98ron, I used 95 once and whilst it ran ok it just didnt have any get up and go

Pete
 
My GSA runs much better on 98 RON or better than 95 RON.
It also rattles in neutral but not with clutch lever pulled in so I do have a (hopefully minor) clutch problem.


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I will give it a try but i'm pretty sure the idle control valves or sonething to do with how they work is faulty as it idles at 1000rpm until warmed up when it idles a bit higher and ticks over nicely, seems they are not controlling the idle, looks like my hand will have to do their job
 
Started the bike this morning and it still sounds as if it wants to self destruct, the rpm is the same cold as it is warm, so something is not working. Full tank of 98ron and no difference really, the bike still feels normal/good when warmed up. Done 140 miles on Northern Ireland's finest B roads and it didn't miss a beat. I will just give it a wee tickle with the throttle in the mornings to help it wake up :beerjug:

Pete
 
Pete is it vibrating quite a lot too?

I had this just recently with an RT as in this morning Scratching my head trying to work out why it was vibrating so much (the poor bike has had a HARD life with the chap that owns it riding all year but him not cleaning after one of his excursons

Turns Out wit was the stick coil breaking down

I am ordering a couple of replacements and I will have my spare on back if you wish to try that ?
 
Yes its vibrating like mad, only when cold though, I know very little about mechanics and wouldnt know how to check if it is a coil etc, so I would be ever in your debt if you could help me out, pm me your number and I will give you a shout

cheers Pete
 
Pull the coils. If they are the (older) black type and smell of hot electrics get a new pair. When one fails the other will go soon after.


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