pistolpete
Registered user
Cheers Bendy
That's the plan at the minute and hopefully thats the problem sorted
Pete
That's the plan at the minute and hopefully thats the problem sorted
Pete
Running rough when cold
- Thread starter pistolpete
- Start date
trainman
Registered user
don't forget you have an oil temp and ambient air temp sensor on the bike, the oil sensor will tell the ECU when the engine is warm so it might be worth a check of the wiring and the sensor itself, there is also a cylinder head temp sensor (or 2 I think it varies with model) that do the same job, TBH these are best tested by someone at the dealer or possibly on a GS911 (haven't got mine now so cannot recall if it tested sensors)
a duff sensor or wiring could fool the ECU into thinking the engines warm all the time, hence no fast/smooth idle
a duff sensor or wiring could fool the ECU into thinking the engines warm all the time, hence no fast/smooth idle
pistolpete
Registered user
funny you should say that as ive noticed my ambient air temp on the dash always says around 50 degrees C even when i know its around 15c
pistolpete
Registered user
Just googled the ambient air temp sensor, motoworks sell them and the description is
Ambient air temperature sensor for bike with onboard computer only. This is not an engine management system component.
Therefore I dont think it would affect the idle as its not an engine management system component, however I am probably wrong
Ambient air temperature sensor for bike with onboard computer only. This is not an engine management system component.
Therefore I dont think it would affect the idle as its not an engine management system component, however I am probably wrong
trainman
Registered user
bikes with a display have an extra one but you still have an engine one in the airbox area, its what you plug the accelerator module into should you fit that device
pistolpete
Registered user
Ah ok trainman understand now, and see you soon Doc
Cheers guys
Cheers guys
pistolpete
Registered user
So far the oil temp sensor has been replaced and the coil's checked, the coils are all good and the bike still runs like shit when cold, I'm going to see betty swollocks of this forum in the morning and borrow his accelerator module to see if it makes any difference and i'm also considering taking out the K&N air filter and replacing it with a normal stock item. If none of this works then its of to BMW and their super computer combined with empty wallet.
Bendy toy
Registered user
(1) Fancy exhaust system with K&N filter causes the engine to run very weak risking exhaust valve damage.
(2) Standard exhaust with K&N is ok.
(3) Fancy exhaust with standard filter is also ok.
If its running option 1 get the compression tested.
(2) Standard exhaust with K&N is ok.
(3) Fancy exhaust with standard filter is also ok.
If its running option 1 get the compression tested.
A GS911 can show real time values for all your sensors, so you could check the air inlet and oil temperature on startup/cold idle. You could also get the idle stepper motors to relearn their base position. You can read and reset any fault codes present. If all else fails, you could clear adaptive values from the computer and go for a ride to relearn them. A great bit of kit.
Bendy toy
Registered user
The 911 (and also the BMW dealer's computer) can't indicate a faulty coil. It just makes the detective work a bit easier.
pistolpete
Registered user
Option 2 bendy, bike is now booked in with bmw to be plugged in and hopefully find out whats wrong, bearing in mind it hasn't be plugged into bmw's computer for nearly 6 years now im sure something or other will be needing updated
Cheers all and I will report back with the findings, and cheers stevie the accelerator module did make a noticeable difference, money well spent
Cheers all and I will report back with the findings, and cheers stevie the accelerator module did make a noticeable difference, money well spent
Pete I'll be about Monday until 4 and then you need to text if you want to take a run over
Honestly they do not normally need much And paying £50 to Herr Flick and his crew still galls me!
Been Busy with New Job (thank feck
)
Honestly they do not normally need much And paying £50 to Herr Flick and his crew still galls me!
Been Busy with New Job (thank feck
)
pistolpete
Registered user
No worries doc will see you around 10am
Cheers pete
Cheers pete
It could be a lambda probe failed, or has been said many times previously, the stick coils..
No prob Pete.....
pistolpete
Registered user
this is a vid from a cold start with DrFarkoff's set of stick coils fitted, as you can see towards the end of the vid when the bike has warmed up a little the clatter/rattle has nearly disappeared
Sorry about the outstanding camera work, I havnt done the course
Hohlee Sufferin Fluck! Pete
If I'd Heard that before you arrived I wouldn't have bothered giving you the coils to try! L
Sorry mate That sounds terribly like a bit like Piston Slap to me! Which makes sense ....
AS In There when Cold but disappears when warm
Not the worst on the world to fix if it is, But ascertaining for sure prior to ripping the heads and barrels off could be difficult
Neil a query for you to confirm that my thoughts were correct .....the Lamda only takes on a Role when the motor gets to working temp(or nearly working Temp) doesn't it?
If I'd Heard that before you arrived I wouldn't have bothered giving you the coils to try! L
Sorry mate That sounds terribly like a bit like Piston Slap to me! Which makes sense ....
AS In There when Cold but disappears when warm
Not the worst on the world to fix if it is, But ascertaining for sure prior to ripping the heads and barrels off could be difficult
Neil a query for you to confirm that my thoughts were correct .....the Lamda only takes on a Role when the motor gets to working temp(or nearly working Temp) doesn't it?
Mr K
Registered user
Just start it up and ride it away.
They're not meant to sit at tickover after start-up.
They're not meant to sit at tickover after start-up.
pistolpete
Registered user
why does it always happen to me
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