Hi. Just been checking plugs and have found that the nearside ignition coil case is corroded along the seam of the metal tube! Rhs one is ok though. Anyone know if this is a problem or cosmetic? Off to morocco on 23rd and don't want nasty surprise.
Rusty ignition coil case
- Thread starter Michael R1150GS Adventure
- Start date
west coast traveller
Registered user
It's a common problem and a sign that the coil stick is showing it's age. If it's just a bit of corrosion on the surface I myself wouldn't worry too much but check if the coil is showing evidence of swelling (which it probably is) as this indicates it's likely as not on it's way out and breaking down. Could last ages or start backfiring/missing tomorrow. To be on the safe side why not purchase a spare one to take with you? -£60 from Motorworks. New ones with light grey caps seem to have better resistance against the damp.
Ian
Ian
aye its swelling a little. Just dropped it off at my local BM dealer for it 24K service before heading off week after next to Morocco.
He said not to worry as it's not electrically important, just a rigid case for the ignition. I'm not convinced however - these guys managed to overfill my bike with oil last time and it came peeing out of the head and all over my leg! Doesnt exactly inspire confidence... wish I could just service the flaming thing on my own instead of depending on the blooming service book being BMW stamped every time in fear of losing value on the bike! (thats prob worth a separate posting that...)
He said not to worry as it's not electrically important, just a rigid case for the ignition. I'm not convinced however - these guys managed to overfill my bike with oil last time and it came peeing out of the head and all over my leg! Doesnt exactly inspire confidence... wish I could just service the flaming thing on my own instead of depending on the blooming service book being BMW stamped every time in fear of losing value on the bike! (thats prob worth a separate posting that...)
motobiker
Registered user
You absolutely WILL NOT lose resale value on your bike by either servicing it yourself or having a cheaper independent do the work for you. These are BMWs the attitudes towards 'history' are rather different to other bikes. Just keep proof of the work done. receipts and suchlike.
Seen shedloads of bikes on here that have sold for a good price with all concerend happy bunnies where the description stated.. official service history to X miles/year. then serviced by self or independent. have proof of all work done.
Thats all you need.
In fact given what you've said it seems to me that anyone could do a better job than the monkeys you currently pay.
Seen shedloads of bikes on here that have sold for a good price with all concerend happy bunnies where the description stated.. official service history to X miles/year. then serviced by self or independent. have proof of all work done.
Thats all you need.
In fact given what you've said it seems to me that anyone could do a better job than the monkeys you currently pay.
My R1100RT had full dealer service, but it has taken me ages to get it up to my standard of service and is much better for it, just need steptoe to send me the new pads and headguards
You'll have to be clearer about what your talking about ? What is a coil case, and what is the rigid case for the ignition ??
Do you mean the main plug coil cap ?
If so these can and do fail on a regular basis. The bike will run rough and idle badly. If left they can cause expensive damage. I've had a customers bike where the wiring to the coil caught fire when it failed and overheated .
If it's the main plug cap coil I find it hard to believe a BMW dealer can tell you it's not electrically important.
just need steptoe to send me the new pads and headguards
Pads here waiting to be posted, just waiting for the "cord" inserts for the headguards. Feckers have lost the package.
ELIMINATOR
Registered user
If you're off to Morroco, I would suggest that you get one as a spare. They can fail with from mildly irritating symptoms, to making the bike totally shit to ride. I've experienced both extremes.
Thor
Registered user
One of mine was ****ed and the other was on its way out, both 'looked' normal - no corrosion or swelling. Changed them both and the bike is a different beastie
how do i add a picture so i can show you guys which part is corroding?
...and as far as finding it hard to believe BMW would say that, he did. Word for word.
...and as far as finding it hard to believe BMW would say that, he did. Word for word.
and when starting my bike from cold (on the sidestand after moving it out of garage), when i lift it up vertical to get on, it misfires for a few seconds... have to lift the revs to get it past the misfire it has for a few secs...
Any ideas? Normal y/n?
Thanks for the tips everyone... must get subscribed!
Any ideas? Normal y/n?
Thanks for the tips everyone... must get subscribed!
ELIMINATOR
Registered user
You mean one of these?
yep thats it.
Mine is corroded only along the metal seam, the metal is painted black. SOme swelling too.
I want to post a photo but dont know how to,,,
Mine is corroded only along the metal seam, the metal is painted black. SOme swelling too.
I want to post a photo but dont know how to,,,
You'll need ...
... to subscribe before you can post pic's; well worth £12 a year for the info and access to FS&W
... to subscribe before you can post pic's; well worth £12 a year for the info and access to FS&W
will do many thanks
what is FS&W
bear with me, I'm new to this site...
what is FS&W
bear with me, I'm new to this site...
Ok, thanks for this. I've only had mine (Jan 2004, 15k miles) a few weeks and have found that it does this too. Not all the time, but on the first couple of occasions it did unsettle me, and cause me to question what I was doing.
I thought it was just because the bike was cold and I was not used to the bike. I still think this, but will have a word with them next week when they change the oil filter.
ps FS&W = For sale & Wanted. I think its still £12 annually to subsrcibe, and well worth every penny.
Paul90
Registered user
Are you sure it's as you lift it to vertical or is it just after ticking over for a few seconds ?
When you first start the engine the heaters in the lambda sensors are not yet up to working temperature.
After ticking over for a few seconds the lambda sensors start to work and the fuel injection starts to adjust the mixture accordingly.
On my 1200 if the throttle synch is off slightly then I notice the idle becomes a little rough once the lambda sensors kick in. Once it's hot then idle is not noticeably different.
If it really does change as you move the bike then perhaps check the coils and spark plugs for cracks, corrosion or poor connections.
Paul
Here you go:
Starting from cold (10 deg C) about 20 sec before you get valid lambda readings.
When you first start the engine the heaters in the lambda sensors are not yet up to working temperature.
After ticking over for a few seconds the lambda sensors start to work and the fuel injection starts to adjust the mixture accordingly.
On my 1200 if the throttle synch is off slightly then I notice the idle becomes a little rough once the lambda sensors kick in. Once it's hot then idle is not noticeably different.
If it really does change as you move the bike then perhaps check the coils and spark plugs for cracks, corrosion or poor connections.
Paul
Here you go:
Starting from cold (10 deg C) about 20 sec before you get valid lambda readings.
Start bike from cold, on side stand.lifting bike vertical to get on after a few mins or a few secs and it 'putputputs...' and i have to hold a few revs on to keep it from stopping.
A def misfire but goes away very after about 5-10 secs and i can leave it on the fast idle without further bother.
lifting bike vertical to get on after a few mins or a few secs and it 'putputputs...' and i have to hold a few revs on to keep it from stopping.
A def misfire but goes away very after about 5-10 secs and i can leave it on the fast idle without further bother.
Pull the bottom ( secondary plug) spark plug caps off and see if it runs on the two main plugs. The secondary plugs use a "normal" coil and caps. These rarely give any trouble, most of the problems on twin spark engines are the main coil/caps.
only happens when i move the bike from leant over to the vertical position. No issues if i leave it on the side stand!
Odd thing eh?
Odd thing eh?
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