safety problem with 1150

  • Thread starter Thread starter bigbob
  • Start date Start date
R1150GS fault

bigbob said:
If you have a 1150 gs I strongly suggest you check your ignition switch wiring loom where it is cabled tied to the bike frame braking . On a recent trip to Spine two of the wires broke with the result of the bike cutting out and me failing of my bike :(.
If anyone has had this problem can you let me know [email protected]
Regards Bob H
Click to expand...

Hi Bob
Yes I too experienced this problem at around 45000 miles. Had to have the whole loom replaced but worse was the inconvenience. I broke down on the way to Wales & had to get towed back home!
Bernie
www.stahlkoffer.com
 
Mine has just gone, but it is ok - only cut the engine when I try to turn right:augie so I am going to try going around roundabouts continental style until the new part comes tomorrow!

2003 GS - 70K miles.
 
As prev Members on this thread have said...thanks for this heads up..only just spotted it....defo a good 12 quids worth is this place.....:thumb2

Now where's fookin Skygod with that bloody write up....:mad:
 
When I dismantled it I wondered if the break in the wire would be obvious to spot or if I would need to buzz it out with a meter...

P1010557.jpg
 
when I did my wifes bike last year, I kept the old parts and made up new wires and re-soldered, its nice to have a spare for no more than the cost of a bit cable some solder and heat shrink.
 
Green Wire

1150GS-A..155000KM,,.Green wire close to the ignition switch..It was on/off/on/off,,,,,,,,.It was not easy to locate..impossible to see any damage outside of the insulation..Fix it with a screw terminal...

2010-05-13%20043.JPG
 
I didnt have this problem but...

My 2002GSA literally CAUGHT FIRE when the loom chaffed on the battery tray and shorted out after a rain storm. Luckily it was on my drive and not in the garage that day.

I posted a thread at the time (3 years ago), dont know if its still there. There is a quick preventative fix by simply zip tieing a piece of curved plastic (slice a tube in half lengthways) onto the edge of the battery tray.

Tnx, Mike
 
Just replaced this switch loom. 96 euro for a few wires, block connector and switch thingy from Kearys in cork!! Holy Sh!t balls. previous owner had done a bad bad bad repair job on orig one so money well spent i guess.
 
In high flex areas, I have used (not on BMWs) silicone rubber oven shelf protectors. They are flexible split down one side and slip easily over a cable bunch. When tying down be careful the unprotected ends are not doing all of the bending.

They are handy on cars with plug top ignition coils to replace the aged corrugated plastic sleeves as silicone wont dry and crack in the heat.

Here's an example
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SILICON-O...pt=UK_Kitchen_Accessories&hash=item45fa7b22e9

Smooth versions also available but they will have to be taped over.

These will also protect the wires and may be more flexible than the relatively stiff sleeves used on some bike harnesses.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l2736&_nkw=wiring+loom+tape

Another option is to use a wire or plastic ring that fits loosely around the wiring loom and cable tie the ring to the bike frame.
 
Just read this and thought I’d replace a potential problem before it becomes an issue. The original part is no longer available from Motorworks but an alternative is. £159! :eek:
I may give BMW a call to see if this part is still available from them instead.
 
Udders said:
Just read this and thought I’d replace a potential problem before it becomes an issue. The original part is no longer available from Motorworks but an alternative is. £159! :eek:
I may give BMW a call to see if this part is still available from them instead.
Click to expand...
You might find that BMW is where they source their parts... I've twice repaired this prob without issue on different oilheads...
 
2003 R1150GS started to cut out for no apparent reason. Would restart after 5 minutes or so. Checked the switch loom and no broken wires.
Last time moving the ignition key brought on the lights for a moment. Carefully positioning the key and power was restored, until it cut out again on the run home. Resetting the key got me home.
I took the ignition switch apart and found that one of the two rotary contacts were was bent and misaligned and contacts were burnt through arcing. Rotary contacts were realigned and all contacts filed cleaned. Switch reassembled and everything worked.
But to be sure to be sure, I bought a spare used switch from Motorworks and it's tucked away on the bike.

Sent from my ANE-LX1 using Tapatalk
 
just keeping this ignition switch issue going...I'm trying to replace the switch with a remote...is this wiring schematic from Haynes accurate?...looks like I just need to connect together the red (+12v) with the green & purple & also connect the other 2 grey wires together...is that it?...thnx

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
maku said:
just keeping this ignition switch issue going...I'm trying to replace the switch with a remote...is this wiring schematic from Haynes accurate?...looks like I just need to connect together the red (+12v) with the green & purple & also connect the other 2 grey wires together...is that it?...thnx

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Interesting first post.

Forgive me but the sceptic in me thinks you may have just stolen a R1150 and you would like to know how to bypass the ignition.

I hope I’m wrong.

By the way, You need to be a paid up subscriber to post pictures.
 
The Haynes wiring diagram you posted is accurate. But, you don’t need to connect the Violet wire unless you have auxiliary equipment such as a radio.

The grey/blue wire and the grey wires are for lights. (Grey/blue is power into ignition switch and Grey power out to lights)

If you want parking lights with ignition off, then you would just need to power the grey wire directly from the battery.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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