Scotland 2024: Skye, Bealach na Bà ... and an Act of Remembrance

[retroman]

In July 2023 my son-in-law Hayden (henceforth, “H” – PapaHayd on here) and I toured Western Scotland including Arran & Mull, the ride report that I posted seemed well received, so I thought I’d document this year’s tour in the same format. The plan was seven/eight days taking in some of the Lake District on the way up, two nights in Moffat, followed by a big loop taking in various roads on Skye, then onto Sheldaig via Bealach na Bà (Applecross). On the return we would visit the Isle of Bute then travel home via the Yorkshire Dales.

We had glorious weather last year, so I took a gamble and pre-booked everything in advance – accommodation and ferries – then watched with mounting apprehension as the departure day approached and the Scottish forecast became increasingly worse. But our feeling was, “Sod it, let’s just go for it”.

Day 1 (me only) – Cardiff to Llandudno

As my daily comfortable limit is about 250 miles I decided on an overnight in Llandudno. This would give me time to sample a few beers before the next leg to the Lakes, where I would meet H.

I travelled north on well-trodden routes via Rhayader and Lake Vrnwy. As soon as I set off the weather closed in, so photos are few and far between!

I chose a different approach to Llandudno than previously, travelling via the excellent B5113 from Pentrefoelas. A great biking road, barely saw another vehicle.




I continue to ride Helga, my 2002 R1150GS which I have owned since new. Fresh from an annual service, and the big GS didn't miss a beat. Somewhere on the afformentioned B5113, with Snowdonia as a backdrop. Or whatever else it's called these days.


Yes, before the chorus of protest rises, I know it looks like I am overlanding for the next twelve months - I always carry lots of kit for eventualities, plus I like to be comfortable - that's the way I roll. Not for me the minimalist "spare pair of skiddies & a packet of fags" in a tank bag for two weeks.

As per last year, we would stay in a variety of hotels, pubs and an Air B&B. I opted for the Marine Hotel in Llandudno - very reasonable, cracking location and a hearty all-you-can-eat breakfast. Plus a pet as an added bonus.



After visiting several pubs listed in the CAMRA guide I settled for the Snowdon, up near the Great Orme. A marvellous pub ... lovely array of ales.


After several pints, an early night in readiness for Day 2 and the ride to the Lakes. To be continued!

 

[Doc]

I also probably take too much. Do your own thing and don't worry what others say. Enjoy your trip.

 

[retroman]

I also probably take too much. Do your own thing and don't worry what others say. Enjoy your trip.

Cheers Doc. I should clarify that I have returned home safely and this is a "retrospective" ride report.

 

[Davey B]

"retro - spective"...ah, I see what you did there. looking forward to the rest Dave.

 

[Doc]

Cheers Doc. I should clarify that I have returned home safely and this is a "retrospective" ride report.

Ah ok.
Big word that for me.

 

[Tinytim]

Good stuff. Looking forward to it.

 

[Pepsi]

Come on dude you can’t just stop at that point now you’ve started.

 

[retroman]

Day 2 – Llandudno to Ambleside

OK chaps I hear you!

Sunday dawned dull, grey and drizzly; my anticipated bracing walk along the prom was duly abandoned; after a huge breakfast I was straight onto the bike and away. Plan A was a straight blast up the M6 to the Lakes for a run at some of the passes, with dinner booked for 1800 after meeting up with H. However, last year a similar plan was scuppered by a massive delay on the motorway, and thus it proved again this year: but this time, I had a Plan B. As the dreaded Matrix of Doom on the Motorway of Despair began to show delays akin to cricket scores up ahead, I baled at Jct 28 and headed for Clitheroe. I had a fantastic run along quiet roads: A59 to Clitheroe, the wonderful B6478 via Slaidburn to the A65; then A683 towards Sedburgh and Kendal, and onto the YHA at Ambleside for our overnight stay.

We stayed at the YHA last year, it really is great value for money. A private room on the shore of Lake Windermere with limitless breakfast, all for £70. Just after I had finished checking in, H arrived from Hampshire having had a pretty clear run, evidently the M6 had cleared as he rode north - but after my great run in via the Pennines I was not complaining.

H's 1250 ADV dwarfing my modest 1150!



With kit deposited and us suitably showered and changed, it was off into town for a splendid Sunday dinner at The Priest Hole restaurant. Lovely roast beef lurks under that monster Yorkshire:



That bottle of Malbec did not survive the evening. Having also had a large G&T, by this point I was thoroughly enjoying myself.



Probably not a wise move, but after dinner I had to have a pint of ale, so it was into the Royal Oak next door for a lovely draft of something-I-cannot-recall. H poses with my pint: by this point he had seen sense, and was on the ginger beer.




And so to bed for a restful night, in anticipation of the next day on the road. TBC.

 

[Udders]

I’m in.

 

[retroman]

Day 3 & 4: The Lakes and Central Highlands

I awoke with a thick head and the sound of rain drumming on the roof, worst fears were realised: the weather had closed in overnight, heavy rain and poor visibility forecast. The cyclists, hillwalkers and schoolkids at breakfast looked particularly miserable at their day in prospect ….

Neither of us were perturbed, a few years ago I followed H’s lead and invested in a Rukka Nirvala suit, which has proved to be money well spent: not a drop of rain was to make it in. I was also wearing my new Shoei Neotec 3 with Sena SRL-03 comms for this trip, which was custom fitted for me at Motolegends. It’s the most comfortable lid I’ve worn in 20+years of motorcycling. A pity the Pinlock was to fail on this trip , but that’s a story for another day … All in all, with Daytona boots, my kit is currently worth more than my bike, but hey-ho ….

No photos this AM as the weather did not play ball, but at least it kept the camper vans etc. off the road – “every cloud”, and all that. After a bimble around Coniston Water we did a loop of the Western Lakes via Egremont, then cut inland to Buttermere for a run up Honister Pass. Although spectacular, by this stage we were getting cold and hungry, so we made our way along Derwent Water to (a very busy) Keswick for lunch.

Whilst looking a for a parking space and debating the same, a voice in a broad Yorkshire brogue came over the MESH channel intercom: “Aye Oop lads, get yerself to the main car-park, free parking for bikes”. We waved to the departing group of bikers (and source of the info) as we arrived … but from then on, comms were by Bluetooth!

Suitably refreshed, we elected for a fast motorway run to Moffat and the wonderful Buccleuch Arms, our home-from-home for the next two nights. This place will be familiar to many on here: an absolute biker’s haven.



After the usual warm welcome from Dave and his team, I elected to try this weird place opposite, which is listed in the CAMRA guide, and proudly (and bizarrely) boasts that it’s the narrowest hotel in the world at 21 feet. As it turned out the only handpump was in the sports-bar at the back, where the football was on (I counted six plasma screen TVs) and the clientele were grumpy middle aged Jocks, who soon accepted this grumpy middle-aged Taffy in their midst.



Nice pint of ale from a Castle Douglas brewery, but it was time for dinner at the Bucc:



After pie and steak, a Rhodesian steamed pud for me, Tarte Tatin for H ...



H's room at the Bucc. We would be riding the road in that picture the following day. And yes, Stag sightings also!

 

[retroman]

Day 4 and … well, bugger me, it’s NOT RAINING

A day I had eagerly anticipated as we tackled the “Bucc 8” around the Central Highlands, Dave kindly provided this map and even uploaded the route to our SatNavs. The Bucc offer a packed lunch with its own cool bag, having ordered the night before this turned out to be a good move. Cafes on this route are sparse, and those we did see were closed! We did the left side of the 8 in the morning, the Three Lochs section in the afternoon:



What followed was a magnificent day of motorcycling on deserted roads with only the occasional Golden Eagle for company. A highlight for me was seeing a beautiful Curlew sat on a gatepost as we bimbled past, at close quarters. I’ve only ever seen these at a distance across estuaries through binoculars … he didn’t seem the least bit bothered by these two GSers. No photo sadly!!

H having fun ...



Time for lunch ...



GS built for roads like this ...

 

[retroman]

And so to the afternoon, and another highlight of this trip … the simply stunning “Three Lochs” loop taking in St.Mary’s Loch, Megget and Tala. Mickey of this parish sold me his RE Himalayan a few years back, and I have a photo of that bike at Tala whilst he owned it. I wanted a photo of my 1150 at the same location, so we rode down the hill and back up again! One day, I hope to return here on the Himmy for the same photo ... you can see the road we followed from here in the far distance, skirting the loch on the right. Sublime!



Obligatory bucket-list selfie at such an iconic Scottish biking location. Following this, back to the Bucc for another splendid meal and a Single Malt (Highland Park for H / Raasay for me), before a restful night in preparation for our next leg to the Isle of Skye.

 

[retroman]

Day 5: Moffat to Kyleakin (Isle of Skye)

The morning dawned anything but bright and sunny, and after another marvellous breakfast it was time to load up and ship out of the Bucc, having bid Dave and his staff a fond farewell. There was a chap on a R1250GS ADV out in the yard who had just returned from Mallaig, he was full of moans and groans about the weather further north: we could do nothing but shrug our shoulders and ride off into the ever-thickening gloom. Last year, Dave had provided an excellent cross-country route towards Gourock via Lairgs for the ferry to Dunoon, and we elected to ride this again, as it avoids motorways and the dreaded wobble-box brigade.

Suffice so say, it pissed down virtually all the way, with Hayden laughing into my headset – the worse the conditions, the more amusing H seems to find our situation. It was to get positively hilarious for him on Skye …

On board the Dunoon ferry, it was beautiful weather this time last year …



In 2024, not so much ... confined to the cabin:

 

[retroman]

It was to be quite a trek from Dunoon to our digs on Skye ... having stopped at Holy Loch Marina for a burger lunch, the route was the wonderful A815 north to Loch Fyne, kicking right onto the A83 past Rest-and-be-thankful, then north along Glen Falloch to join the A82 at Crainlarich and a wonderful blast over Rannoch Moor to the Pass of Glencoe on the A82, a road that H had never ridden before. Judging by the verbal expletives over the air, it’s fair to say that H was enjoying himself as the scenery became increasingly dramatic! Traffic was mercifully light and overtakes were no problem. By this time the rain had become sporadic, and the sun was threatening to make a full appearance; it all added to the drama of the incredible Higlands landscape.

At Spean Bridge, it was time to stop briefly at the magnificent Commando Memorial. We would visit again a few days later - of which, more anon.

 

[Gavla04GS]

Loving the write up….

 

[retroman]

John Ferguson, in his book The Motorcylists Guide to Scotland, makes a big deal of the ferry from Glenelg to Skye via Kylerhea. It’s the last turntable-operated ferry in the country, owned & run by locals: previously I’d done the ferry from Kyle of Lochalsh to Kyleakin until the Skye bridge was built, so we decided to give this a go. Only problem being the last sailing was timed at 18:00 and my SatNav showed arrival at 17:55 … so we had to push on somewhat … After another spirited run up the A87 it was left turn at Shiel Bridge onto an outrageous single-track road that rapidly climbed through the forest to the Mam Ratgan Pass. This next few miles to Glenelg was another highlight of this trip – absolutely spectacular. Mr Ferguson is quite correct!

We arrived at Glenelg with five minutes to spare, to find that we were the only punters – plus, the last sailing was actually at 19:00, so we could have taken more time ... the crew were delighted to see us and take the £20 joint fare as we boarded the good ship GLENACHULISH for the ten-minute crossing to Skye.









You've got to wonder how long this will continue to operate - for a long time to come, we hope




"What the hell is THIS ...??!!"






Seals basking on the Skye approach.



Literally the moment we landed on Skye, the heavens again opened and we had a good soaking as we headed for Kyleakin. It would barely stop raining for the duration of our time on the Island!

TBC'd ....

 

[ShakeyGS]

The three lochs route from Moffat and the pies at the Bucc are two of my favourite things.

 

[retroman]

Day 6: Isle of Skye to Sheildaig via Bealach na Bà

Our hotel in Kyleakin – the KINGS ARMS - was a rather run down Fawlty Towers-type place full of glum-faced Kraut tourists. Still, it was cheap (for Skye), the room was quiet, and there was decent parking around the back for our bikes. I had really hoped that if nothing else, the weather was reasonable on this of all days – I was to be disappointed. I awoke to rain rattling against the windows, a stiff breeze, and it was noticeably chilly too.

Not much I can say about Skye, here’s the route, basically a figure of eight commencing at Kyleakin:



It didn’t stop raining the entire time we were on the island. A photo on the little road from Staffin to Uig:



I've done Skye on a sunny day and so I know it's stunning ... despite today's weather we still had a blast ... scenery really is incredible.

 

[retroman]

Earlier in the day, as I was filling up at a petrol station near Portree I was joined by a couple of miserable bikers, their bikes laden down with filthy camping gear, who were heading south as quickly as possible vowing never to return to Scotland … ... camping being their biggest mistake. I gave up THAT caper years ago.

After crossing back onto the mainland it was time to give this wee road a go ….




Although nice and clear at sea level, looking up towards the summit and there was, er, nothing to see but cloud. We were to ride through this muck in a full-on hailstorm.






It was nearly dark at the top, too. On the 4th of July!

 

[retroman]

So Bealach na Bà is now ticked off the list, not sure that I really enjoyed it on a fully loaded GS and I won’t be rushing back! That being said, I know my RE Himalayan would be superb on roads like this … as for H, he loved every second

Once off the pass the rain cleared somewhat and we were able to enjoy the coast road to Loch Torridon and Shieldaig, where I had booked a really good hotel for the night. We arrived at about 17:30, with a herd of Red Deer (including a magnificent Stag) sighted en route.

By this stage I was completely knackered. Hotel & Bar form the backdrop.



Joy of joys, our rooms both had a bath. So after a hot soak it was straight into the bar next door for a local G&T.




The view from the front: I had been told that a pair of Sea Eagles are nesting on that Island yonder, but despite my best efforts (involving the use of my binos lugged all the way from Wales just for this moment) I didn't sight them




As we sat down for dinner the rain started again, and didn't stop all night. I headed upstairs, feeling rather weary, looking forward to a good night's sleep. I was to be disappointed ....

TBC.