Scottoiler

[wessie]

I had an outing to the Tutoro factory in Lydney today - they use mostly UK sourced parts apart from the main reservoir which is made in New Zealand! (Apparently the owner has a friend with a plastics factory out there).

It was a bit like walking into the machine shop of a 1960s factory with a bunch of lathes used for machining various bits.

The mechanism was explained to me and it is a very simple design and should be a doddle to fit.

I'll report back after fitting it and using it for a while. This might be after the 600 mile service and after I have acquired the luggage on back order, as I don't want to have to move it should the luggage want to occupy the same space.

 

[John Armstrong]

The Automatic Tutoro will have the same issues as the basic Scottoiler with regards to changes in temperature, IMO. Where it is 100% better is the ease of priming it. And using the KISS principle is very sensible too.

 

[Giles]

Fitting the Tutoro ....

Soooooo ....

I fitted the Tutoro Chain oiler today. As has already been mentioned, its appeal for me is its simplicity, no vacuums or power requirements, and it seems a pretty well made bit of kit.

First off, where to fit the reservoir. I want the whole system to look smart and I want to avoid heath Robinson Cable ties and the like. The system comes with an array of fittings and fixtures for you to choose from;



I want to mount the reservoir itself on the bikes offside, away from the heat of the motor. (Nearside gets hotter). This will keep the oil more consistent in its viscosity.

So my choices boil down to either a tab that is cable tied on to the frame to the left of the oil reservoir, or a dog-leg fitting to the right;



I plumb with the sweeping dog leg (mostly to avoid cable ties on display), and butcher it somewhat so that it fits to the back of the oe bolt that holds the rear brake reservoir to a tab on the frame. I bend it around the back of the brake reservoir. The 8mm nylock nuts supplied fit the oe bolt that is sticking through its tab;







So the end product (which I admit is a bit Heath Robinson looks like this;



Now to the delivery system. So again, I don't want it to look pants. No disrespect to this guy (pic from the net) but I want a better finish than something like this;



The obvious starting point on the 1190 is the plastic chain guard on the bottom of the swing arm;



I remove this and give it a deep clean. I thought about drilling it and neatly fitting a cable tie through it, but have opted for some sticky cable tie mounts. I've used these pretty successfully before with autocom stuff and have found them to stick like leeches;









Worthy of note is that the tube that feeds the oil has a small length of metal wire within the last 6 inches or so (have a close look in the last pic), and it allows you to mould the tubing into a fixed shape.

Next it's a thorough clean underneath the swing arm in order to route the tubing back to the reservoir. The sticky pads must have a super clean surface first;







The tubing is fed back to the chain oil reservoir and attached at the bottom. There's a deliberate amount of slack in the tubing to allow for movement in the swing arm.




The reservoir is primed by opening the tap fully, lifting the brass weight and pouring in the oil.



And that's it! Looks good from both sides with no untidy clutter;

 

[Deleted account 211025001]

You're starting to 'get' this depth of field thing aren't you

And........have you seen the colour of your brake fluid Mine's the same, I wonder if it's the heat back there?

Anyway, apart from the bodged bracket that's not looking too bad............

Andres

 

[Giles]

Yet to ride it ... (going out in an hour to the dealer to get my stop 'n go mushroom that I had to put in the rear two days ago, replaced with a permanent plug ... ). I anticipate a few weeks of buggeration until I get the flow right ....

 

[wessie]

Yet to ride it ... (going out in an hour to the dealer to get my stop 'n go mushroom that I had to put in the rear two days ago, replaced with a permanent plug ... ). I anticipate a few weeks of buggeration until I get the flow right ....

Yes. I went with the 2 turns for my first ride but that has left the rear of the number plate well coated. Trying 1.5 turns for now but they wide temperature ranges we are getting at the moment makes it difficult to calibrate

 

[rjsmith26]

I used to ride VFRs and use Scot oilers for 10 years+. The round standard bottle solution I found to be pretty unreliable, difficult to fit and look tidy and difficult to adjust. I then went for the touring kit behind the number plate. Absolutely brilliant, its basically the normal round tube in a cradle with a vacuum top draw from the touring capacity tank. All neatly hidden behind the number plate and simple to adjust twice a year - once above 20 turn down to one drip, once temps always below 20 turn up to 3 drips.

Full strip of back end of bike to fit as you need to run the oil drip line from behind number plate to middle of bike and then down the swing arm and also run a vac tube to the air box to allow auto on/ off of the oiler with the bike running.

If I was still on a bike with a chain the touring variety is what I would go for. For me it needed refilling about every 2000 miles and chain stayed clean and in great condition.

 

[SPG]

I used to ride VFRs and use Scot oilers for 10 years+. The round standard bottle solution I found to be pretty unreliable, difficult to fit and look tidy and difficult to adjust. I then went for the touring kit behind the number plate. Absolutely brilliant, its basically the normal round tube in a cradle with a vacuum top draw from the touring capacity tank. All neatly hidden behind the number plate and simple to adjust twice a year - once above 20 turn down to one drip, once temps always below 20 turn up to 3 drips.

Full strip of back end of bike to fit as you need to run the oil drip line from behind number plate to middle of bike and then down the swing arm and also run a vac tube to the air box to allow auto on/ off of the oiler with the bike running.

If I was still on a bike with a chain the touring variety is what I would go for. For me it needed refilling about every 2000 miles and chain stayed clean and in great condition.

The problem with fitting a touring kit on a 1190 is that you either have to fit the reservoir on the inside of the rear mudguard and then it gets covered in cack. If fitted on the outside it pushes the plate to far out and the rear number plate light doesn't illuminate the plate. Guaranteed to catch the attention of the boys in blue. The rear light could be extended but would take a bit of work to make it look OK/standard. I'm going to sell on the touring kit and plump for an auto Tutoro. Going to try the twin out let option.

 

[wessie]

The problem with fitting a touring kit on a 1190 is that you either have to fit the reservoir on the inside of the rear mudguard and then it gets covered in cack. If fitted on the outside it pushes the plate to far out and the rear number plate light doesn't illuminate the plate. Guaranteed to catch the attention of the boys in blue. The rear light could be extended but would take a bit of work to make it look OK/standard. I'm going to sell on the touring kit and plump for an auto Tutoro. Going to try the twin out let option.

I've only got the single outlet on the Tracer and the oil is covering all of the chain now, after a longer ride today. I think I have the valve set at the right rate now. Fitting the single outlet was recommended by the Tutoro owner when I visited the workshop due to the shape of the swingarm and sprocket arrangement.

 

[SPG]

I've only got the single outlet on the Tracer and the oil is covering all of the chain now, after a longer ride today. I think I have the valve set at the right rate now. Fitting the single outlet was recommended by the Tutoro owner when I visited the workshop due to the shape of the swingarm and sprocket arrangement.

I will have a word with them and find out what they recommend. My initial thoughts were that with a single discharge, one side of the chain would get too wet or too dry depending on flow rate.

 

[wessie]

I will have a word with them and find out what they recommend. My initial thoughts were that with a single discharge, one side of the chain would get too wet or too dry depending on flow rate.

You apply oil to the sprocket which then gets onto the chain rollers as they run over the sprocket, the oil seems to find it's way everywhere. Scottoilers worked for years with a single delivery tube. I think the twin outlet nozzle is to assuage the anxiety of owners rather than improve the efficacy of the device and of course gives the manufacturer something else to sell to customers.

 

[Davy F]

Giles, you're a man after my own heart. I hate things 'bodged' onto my steed. You have done a very nice tidy instal there.

 

[Giles]

Giles, you're a man after my own heart. I hate things 'bodged' onto my steed. You have done a very nice tidy instal there.

It's working a treat. Chain is nice and clean, and the actual delivery tube hasn't budged a mm. sticky pads seem to be welded in place. I'm surprised to be honest, the bike has had some abuse recently and this thing and all its tubing just sits there un-fazed doing it's job ...