SE 1150 stalling

Hi Nin. I had a problem on a trip recently, same bike as yours. After exploring everything including replacing the stick coils it was still there.
I eventually took it to Steptoe who plugged it in to his analyser and diagnosed an intermittent TPS fault. Seems to be ok now I've replaced it but I haven't been on a trip and got it really hot since.
I'd never have found the fault without the analyser.
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/434740-Cough

Cheers Dave - mine is a low revs and very consistent now once the bike is hot. It's on the transition from and back onto the BBS idle setting. So could still be TPS sending dodgy signals to the brain I guess.

Waiting for another Steptoe contribution to this one ....




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Was the bike running OK before you chipped it?

For what it's worth.

I'd be sticking the original chip back in to confirm it's not the chip.

At the same time, it might be worth removing the plug to the motronic and make sure none of the sockets are pushed back into the connector, sometimes the contact does not lock into the plug housing so you end up with a poor connection.

:nenau
Ian

This is good advice, going back to stock condition.

The other thing worth checking is fuel flow, to rule that out. Best to measure it at the return QD: http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=838620#Post838620

The other thing you can do is borrow a gs-911 and look for error codes.
 
Doesn't Johns stage 10 chip base the settings on higher octane fuels for best performance?
What did you balance your TB's with?
If its the TPS are the bolts tight?
Have you tried cleaning the terminals on the TPS connector?
 
Doesn't Johns stage 10 chip base the settings on higher octane fuels for best performance?
What did you balance your TB's with?
If its the TPS are the bolts tight?
Have you tried cleaning the terminals on the TPS connector?

Balanced with a carbtune, TPS is tightly on and I haven't moved it in the rebuild, have cleaned up connectors.

The problem is changing - now it's also a hesitation (stop, start, bang) with hard acceleration from 3k revs.

Oh and the oil seal behind the HES is leaking. Hurrah!


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On the 2 spark 1150 there is a single coil for both bottom plugs (same unit used on the single spark)
The 1200's use separate stick coils below

Thanks for that. We live and learn. I have a 1200. Soon to have an 1150, so all learning is good learning.
 
Balanced with a carbtune,

I found the carbtune to be useless as the rods kept sticking in the tube. Used gauges and found there to be quite and imbalance.
I posted on here for months trying to get to the bottom of the dieing then pickup...using the gauges solved it.

I used one of these below:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-VACUU...288483?hash=item3a9e05e0a3:g:HMQAAOSwv9hW5p4b

I paired up the gauges and you need to fiddle around with the tubes and to get some decent damping.

Just a thought.

The problem is changing - now it's also a hesitation (stop, start, bang) with hard acceleration from 3k revs.
Don't forget that the mixture adaptation by the Motronic will also adjust your fuelling the more you ride which can do funny things.
 
Thanks all. I'm happy with the carbtune - it's brand new and I always do the left right swap to check in any case.

Does anyone around the Oxford, Reading area have a GS-911 I could borrow?


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Thanks all. I'm happy with the carbtune - it's brand new and I always do the left right swap to check in any case.
Does anyone around the Oxford, Reading area have a GS-911 I could borrow?
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You can borrow mine Simon if it helps.
Ping me a text re collecting it
 
Step 1 sorted. This might explain why I couldn't get a good TB balance.
351c406a97210589b1d77d282e1ff696.jpg



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Update - it passes the fuel flow test, but for safety's sake I've replaced the internal hoses and fuel filter anyway.

I tried the Steptoe CCP mod and that made it worse.

Thanks Symptoms are now repeatable and only when the bike is hot. Give it a handful and it hesitates, then a big bang and then it picks up. Stalling on the coast up to stop, and starts again on the button with no problems at all. All of this only happens when I've got 4-5 bars on the oil temp gauge.

GS-911 will help, and the stock chip will go back in as well.


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Sounds like it's running too lean.....
Was the y section in before it started doing this? - this could have damaged the lambda sensor throwing it into "get me home mode".
Is the connection to the air temp sensor sound?
 
Agreed. I think when the motronic is leaning it off it's exposing some other issues. Stick coil earth points were a bit on the loose side and contaminated with cylinder head paint which can't have helped. GS-911 will tell me all ...


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Just disconnect the Lamda Plug at the right frame rail by the alternator

and it "Should" resort to default Fueling at least if it is still the same it is not the Lamda

Did you check your Throttle position sensor is set correctly?

If its not "near" its value it will be telling the ECU that the throttle angle is more open or less open than it really is and the ECU will fuel accordingly

P.S. Rule number one! Change only one thing at a time

For if you do multiple things you may never know what was wrong :rob
 
Cheers Dr - yes I'm doing one thing at a time (I'm a fella, cant do more). Ran out of time and daylight at the weekend so next steps will be gs-911, TPS, lambda, return to OE chip, remove and replace Y piece


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Fixed. Lambda probe. Disconnect and all runs smoothly.


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