Seat lock release bar repair advice please

[Comfy Old Boots]

It's difficult to lock the rear seat and I found out why earlier. There is a crack just to the left of the seat release lock at the rear of the bike. I've temporarily solved the problem by loosening off the bolt that holds the lock and the connecting plastic piece to the rear frame but need a hardy solution.

My question is what is the best way to fix this? I expect I'll use araldite but I doubt that'll hold for long on its own, so I was considering reinforcing the break with added plastic strips of some sort. Anybody any suggestions as to the best way to go about this?

 

[Steptoe]

Common problem. Usually caused by heavy handedness over a period of time.

Never heard of a successful long term fix.

 

[DutchBryn]

Perhaps reinforce the broken area with Milliput? Black obviously.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Well, I'll have a go at fixing it and try and be gentle with it!

That milliput looks like great stuff. Just need to source a bit...

Thanks.

 

[Disaster Area]

Mine is completely broken. It would seem that getting a second hand one is incredibly difficult and a new one very expensive. I have an 1150 lock that I would consider selling. First to see it will buy it, a reluctant sale.

 

[Canuck]

Sugru

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

I was thinking sugru might do too. Might try that first, I think we have some in work.

 

[MattW]

I patched mine up with epoxy putty - it worked pretty well but didn't last for ever - had to re-do it after a couple of years. If you use it, key the plastic of the lock with coarse sand paper.

I'd imagine sugru would be too compliant and wouldn't give it the necessary support - if the plastic lock bar is allowed to flex too far downwards you'll find that your seats won't lock without tweaking it upwards with the key while you carefully lower the seat onto the opened lock (DAMHIK).

I assume you know to never just slam the seat onto a closed lock (even though they should work like that) - always open the lock with the key and hold it open while you push the seat home.

 

[DutchBryn]

As above, 'support' is the key. You might need to encompass the piece in a new hard shell.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Thanks for the tips. I'll need to take it out this weekend and have a good look at it. I'm hoping I can fit a small bit of metal in there and encase it with something and let it dry. Which would be the strongest: Epoxy putty, milliput or lashings of araldite? Reinforced with long thin bolts perhaps.
The gas thing is, now that I've loosened the allen bolt that holds it to the frame, I just have to give the lock mech a wiggle with my finger and the seat clicks in as it should! Not a long term solution though as I'm sure it'll break.

 

[DutchBryn]

AFAIK Milliput is an epoxy putty. Perhaps there are others...
I do not know if it will work. But if you do attempt such a repair, do not bother trying to use it as glue. It isn't glue.
Perhaps it will work if you reinforce around the broken area. When I said form a 'shell' (above), I meant like a turtle / tortoise has a shell. An exo skeleton. Strength, moments etc all on the outside.

Good luck with it.

 

[Bendy toy]

How about asking a plastic car bumper repair specialist. At least they should know if it can be welded.
Otherwise can you plate over it with 2mm alloy sheet?

 

[Nick591]

On mine (R1100) the plastic tab where the rear bolt goes through had broken. I managed to make up a small stainless steel plate (effectively with a new bolt tab hole) and fixed it to the back of the lock assembly using the lock assembly screw points but with longer screws. Maybe you could do the same but extend the plate along the rail to give it more strength? Totaly agree that you should always turn the key when replacing the seat.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Well, araldite and sugru didn't work. No surprise.

I'm going to hunt out some milliput. See if that works. As long as it does not get worse, it'll do for the moment.

All this talk of steel brackets is beyond my abilities!

I'll look into the plastic welding idea.

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

I think new ones used to be about £30-£40

 

[MikeO]

I think new ones used to be about £30-£40

£55 now from Motorworks - I replaced mine with a new one (after many attempts to repair and strengthen the old one) and just hold the lock housing whenever I fit the rear seat - it's a simple habit to get into...

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

£55 now from Motorworks - I replaced mine with a new one (after many attempts to repair and strengthen the old one) and just hold the lock housing whenever I fit the rear seat - it's a simple habit to get into...

Me too

Not worth pissing about with araldite, which always fails

 

[DrFarkoff]

Just replace the mechanism Owen! phaffing around won;t get you anywhere unless you have access to metal fabrication

"but" when you replace with the new lock you MUST make sure that the latch clicks If you have to thump the seat to get it to latch it will break again

Remove the hoop from the seat base and fit 2 x M6 washers between the loop and the seat and test again

You only want slight pressure to make it click and lock

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

Just replace the mechanism Owen! phaffing around won;t get you anywhere unless you have access to metal fabrication

"but" when you replace with the new lock you MUST make sure that the latch clicks If you have to thump the seat to get it to latch it will break again

Remove the hoop from the seat base and fit 2 x M6 washers between the loop and the seat and test again

You only want slight pressure to make it click and lock

Best tip - add the washers

 

[DrFarkoff]

A bit tired there (up at half 3 this morning) and I forgot to mention you can add or subtract washers so that you get that nice click when you lean gently on the saddle to lock it

Best tip - add the washers