Seized and rounded swingarm bolts

vilguy

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Hey people, hope everyones well.

Got a weeeee issue on my 1150 gsa, sodding swingarm bolt is seized in the frame. L/h side, Ive heated it up with a big gas torch to melt the loctite, had a 30" breaker on it..... and stripped out the hex socket. :blast

This all started because the driveshaft is seized.....

Anyhoo, after looking at it carefully, it seems that the previous owner has cross threaded the bolt into the frame (oh good!) and well its not going anywhere.



Ive cut through the bolt to release the swingarm out so I can get better access to things, (air saw did the trick!) but now its the more difficult task.

Im thinking....... cut off as much of the offending article as possible, from either side and then slit the bolt on both sides with the saw again. Yes this will damage the threads in the casing... but as they are already cross threaded then whats the difference. Ill sort that after.

Any other thoughts? I was wondering about a BIG easy out but didnt know where to source one suitable.

Any help would of course be greatfully received. :augie



other job is to get the driveshaft seperated. Ive had a 10 kilo slide hammer on it and nothing. Im contemplating tying it between our 2 defenders and pulling it apart that way! Actually would using a farm jack work perhaps..... hmmmm?
 
Either trailer it to an engineering workshop, or drill the bolts out. A swing arm can be had off of flea bay for reasonable money. I had a similar problem with my R1100RS, the bolts which hold the final drive to the swing arm can be purchased from Motorworks who do their own kit.
 
Either trailer it to an engineering workshop, or drill the bolts out. A swing arm can be had off of flea bay for reasonable money. I had a similar problem with my R1100RS, the bolts which hold the final drive to the swing arm can be purchased from Motorworks who do their own kit.

already ordered another swingarm bud, and it comes with all the bolts. Bargain for £32 delivered!

I will cut open the old one to get the driveshaft out. I could split it with it in situ but id rather have full access to the driveshaft. Especially when Im going to be using a winch to seperate it.

I guess I could drill the bolts out.Have to get the mag drill set up on a jig of some sort.... ballache! Sodding bikes :P

This all started after I wanted to ditch the abs off the bike haha. I should have just left well enough alone.
Just after I had managed to repair 3 broken studs off an adventure tank as well. I was keen to get out on it!
 
vilguy;4171407...................... but id rather have full access to the driveshaft. Especially when Im going to be using a winch to seperate it...................[/QUOTE said:
Look out for the whiplash:eek:
 
aye i know ;)

ill use a blanket over it to prevent it from flying back towards me windscreen! Im thinking the farm jack might be the safer option....should be able to get 5 tonne of pull out of it. If it doesnt move after that then just buy a new one me thinks. At least once its out I can Heat / Freeze it to try and break any corrosion in there. There is quite a bit of corrosion on the outside and a bit on the visible part of the spline. Hopefully the grease has managed to protect the splines which are internal.
 
already ordered another swingarm bud, and it comes with all the bolts. Bargain for £32 delivered!

I will cut open the old one to get the driveshaft out. I could split it with it in situ but id rather have full access to the driveshaft. Especially when Im going to be using a winch to seperate it.

I guess I could drill the bolts out.Have to get the mag drill set up on a jig of some sort.... ballache! Sodding bikes :P

This all started after I wanted to ditch the abs off the bike haha. I should have just left well enough alone.
Just after I had managed to repair 3 broken studs off an adventure tank as well. I was keen to get out on it!

The swingarm bolts into the gearbox case, so that's where your threads will be damaged..

I see stuck/seized drive shafts regularly... It seems to be caused by a coating not cleaned off the driveshaft splines when assembled.. i use a "Proper" shock absorber spring compressor, the type used on lorries/vans.
Instead of using it in the compression mode i use it the opposite way to separate the two sections of driveshaft.
 
The swingarm bolts into the gearbox case, so that's where your threads will be damaged..

I see stuck/seized drive shafts regularly... It seems to be caused by a coating not cleaned off the driveshaft splines when assembled.. i use a "Proper" shock absorber spring compressor, the type used on lorries/vans.
Instead of using it in the compression mode i use it the opposite way to separate the two sections of driveshaft.

gearbox case, thats what i meant :rob haha any idea on the thread steptoe so i can order some bits to sort it.

ah thats a good idea about the spring compressor! :thumb2
 
fixed one is 27mm metric fine, just been through it, i used a recriprocating saw to cut flush with insid of case and then took gearbox off and combination of drill and punch, just on rebuild now
 
fixed one is 27mm metric fine, just been through it, i used a recriprocating saw to cut flush with insid of case and then took gearbox off and combination of drill and punch, just on rebuild now

cheers bowser :thumb2

Sodding little jobs turn into big ones dont they. Still at least once they are done they make your bike immeasurably better.
 
Mine has been a nightmare.
started off with putting in a new clutch to find the clutch would have been fine but for the oil leak from the gearbox, so box out and given to somone to change seal as I didnt have time, however 4 days to get the damn fixed swingarm bolt out, ended up cutting it to bits, then decided as the thing comming appart, powder coat the rear subframe, and pannier rails. then the covering on the cable bundles is crumbling away so new heat shrink all over and self amalgamating where I cant get the heat shrink. Then had to take rear drive box off when removing the swing arm so had a look at the bearing and one plastic cage is shot so replacing the whole lot with the motorworks upgrade, and I havent even started on it running rich after I replaced the throttle cable!!!!!!
 
Mine has been a nightmare.
started off with putting in a new clutch to find the clutch would have been fine but for the oil leak from the gearbox, so box out and given to somone to change seal as I didnt have time, however 4 days to get the damn fixed swingarm bolt out, ended up cutting it to bits, then decided as the thing comming appart, powder coat the rear subframe, and pannier rails. then the covering on the cable bundles is crumbling away so new heat shrink all over and self amalgamating where I cant get the heat shrink. Then had to take rear drive box off when removing the swing arm so had a look at the bearing and one plastic cage is shot so replacing the whole lot with the motorworks upgrade, and I havent even started on it running rich after I replaced the throttle cable!!!!!!

It's called character and it's what sets our bikes apart from Honda ownership - good luck:thumb
 
It's called character and it's what sets our bikes apart from Honda ownership - good luck:thumb

Haha no its not, its called "F(%$£*£ which complete £$£* designed this, sodding bikes RRAAAAAAAHHHH"

Or something like that :rolleyes:



I do love my GS but there are times..... :rocketwho
 
If your pins are still stuck and the Allen rounded, you can perhaps have a shop tig weld a "lever" on the pin's head. The heat will also melt the Loctite. You can also use a 1/2" drive larger size Torx bit and hammer it in. It is easier that way than welding. Those fine splines are very easy to crossthread. Sometimes the bad threads can be cleaned with a tap. Sometimes not. Used pins are cheap off eBay. I suggest that before refitting them, you spend an hour with an X-Acto and remove old Loctite. If the thread is still good in the final drive or tranny casing, I still spray the threads with WD40 and thread the pins in and out and in and out until they are smooth.

And yes, these four pins require precision when being refitted. I have a few units just in case. I service my 1150GSA and K1200RS and never know. Always prepare for the worst.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-04-R115...ins-/231533607256?hash=item35e87a7958&vxp=mtr

$_57.JPG
 
Well I got it out, I do have a tig welder that could have done it, unfortunately it had been cross threaded by the previous owner, and loctited.... AWESOME!!! That thing was not coming out... not a chance.

So I drilled through it and then used an air saw to cut through it. Got it all out and the thread is rescuable. I have ordered a tap as I didnt have the right pitch.

Not managed to get the driveshaft apart yet, Had 2 tonnes on it and it wouldnt budge. Its badly corroded around the spline unfortunately. Not sure how this has happened. I will give it another go with some more powerful heat / freezing solutions to see if the corrosion can be broken.

If not, Ill cut the gearbox side off and rescue the drivebox side - order a replacement gearbox one.

On a lighter note, at least once this is all sorted it will be better than it has ever been!
 
darn am I the only one who wants to see a picture of this thing : o )
 
20150812_210421.jpg


nothing special im afraid,

This pic was taken just prior to slipping it in the workshop for its adventure tank, and the swingarm issues.

I picked up a set of 1200gs panniers the other night for a song on ebay so that sorts out the luggage issues,

I also broke the tail light the other day when i bumped into it, so ive fitted an led thing i had on the sheld, got led indicators to go on all round as i hate the bulbous OEM ones.

Oh I slipped one of me' HID headlights in the other day. Much better than the Givi auxillary light pod things i have on it at the minute.

Next job - desertio fairing.... well my own version out of carbon fibre anyway. Im not paying £600 for a bit o' grp!

Want to get it ready for 2016 big bike challenge (or the all terrain rallye challenge as its called) so the top box will be coming off, and ill be upgrading a few bits n bobs, maybe some ohlin suspension..... we will see.

Oh i need to get a set of handlebar raisers so im not stooping when riding it on the trails.
 
12046979_10156727107590377_351787659115015802_n.jpg


All fixed! and wow what a difference,

got rid of all the play in the suspension and the horrible vibration (that was obviously the driveshaft being stuck and fighting everything else)

Its like a different bike!
 
12046979_10156727107590377_351787659115015802_n.jpg


All fixed! and wow what a difference,

got rid of all the play in the suspension and the horrible vibration (that was obviously the driveshaft being stuck and fighting everything else)

Its like a different bike!
Top job
 


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