seized tbs screws

[paddy dougan]

Hi,
just tried to sync my 1150rs and the brass screws appear to be seized, anybody had this problem??? Anyone know a fix,
cheers for any help/info,
Paddy

 

[boxer]

Hi,
just tried to sync my 1150rs and the brass screws appear to be seized, anybody had this problem??? Anyone know a fix,
cheers for any help/info,
Paddy

When when were they last adjusted?

Soak with WD over night and try again.

 

[paddy dougan]

Not sure when they were last adjusted, just bought the bike but were new units 20k miles ago. Have soaked them in WD, will try again tomorrow. If all else fails will try heating the body up gently.
cheers,
P

 

[DrFarkoff]

Paddy Boiling water is the answer

Well it's one step better than a heat gun

Get someone to contiuously trickle it over the area where the screws are and you get a really good fitting screwdriver and a spanner or mole grips on the screw driver

It's a messy process involving lots of boiling water and ACF50 would be better if you had it BUt just don't screw them out rock them back and forward contiually working the lubricant in there and keep the boiling water going it will help to break up the salts and rinse them out as well as making the alloy swell more than the brass with the heat

If you do get water in the throttle bodies and are worried just spin the motor over with the plugs pulled out and fitted in the caps against the headers to dispell the spark energy

 

[paddy dougan]

boiling water

Paddy Boiling water is the answer

Well it's one step better than a heat gun

Get someone to contiuously trickle it over the area where the screws are and you get a really good fitting screwdriver and a spanner or mole grips on the screw driver

It's a messy process involving lots of boiling water and ACF50 would be better if you had it BUt just don't screw them out rock them back and forward contiually working the lubricant in there and keep the boiling water going it will help to break up the salts and rinse them out as well as making the alloy swell more than the brass with the heat

If you do get water in the throttle bodies and are worried just spin the motor over with the plugs pulled out and fitted in the caps against the headers to dispell the spark energy

Cheers jaythro,
I'll give that a try first, safer than a heat gun,
will let you know how I get on.

many thanks,
P

 

[rudiemoto]

boiling water , thats a new one
try impact or this

 

[DrFarkoff]

boiling water , thats a new one
try impact or this

Personally I wouldn't use impact you may twist the screw slot out of shape or worse tear the internal threads (same idea as Airhead exhaust nuts) and fcuk the throttle body!

Boiling water can only get to 100 degrees C or if you throw a handful of salt into it 110 degrees C

So if some splashes on the paint or plastics they're not wrecked BUT it is significantly hotter than atmosphere and can provide enough heat transfer to warm the area up enough to expand the alloy and ease the grip on the brass screw

The trick is to trickle it giving enough time for the heat to build up before you start trying to screw the airscrew and to keep heat going while you are turning, 2 reasons number one to keep the pressure off by keeping the heat in and metal expanded and 2 to flush away debris as you undo the airscrew

 

[Steptoe]

If your too brutal you'll find the brass screw heads are very brittle and snap/splinter off. Plus there's a rubber "o" ring on the screws that will do it's best to stop any penetrating fluid from reaching the threads.

 

[Timolgra]

I agree, use a kettle of boiling water and keep a gentle trickle going around the screw

 

[rudiemoto]

i was taking the

 

[tangoman]

A long time has passed since the Paddy had his problem but this happened to me recently.

My RH throttle body brass screw was so stiff it was almost immovable and I was worried that it might snap-off.

When I finally backed it out I could see that the stiffness was caused by tightly packed white powder (alloy corrosion?) filling the narrow gap between the upper unthreaded part of the brass screw and the inside wall of its hole in the throttle body. The corrosion only went down as far as the o-ring and did not affect the threaded part below the o-ring - the brass screw itself was uncorroded.

I don't know what caused the 'bloom' and why only one throttle body was affected?? Maybe salt, Muc-Off or something wasn't rinsed out properly some time ago and with heat & time it did its thing?

Anyway it all cleaned-up OK and, with a new o-ring, if feels just like the LH side.

Andy (balanced at last!).

 

[ClassicBertha]

Seized Screw

Hi All,

Just had the same problem with my brother's R1150RT. We ended up using a hot air gun around the alloy casing, trying to keep the screw itself cool, and applied around 180 degree heat. Moving the screw back and forth and using penetrating oil, they finally came out with a lot of persuasion.

I am not sure about this, but it looked like the screws had been thread locked! The muck on his brass screw was toward the end of the screw but clean above the 'O' ring.

Question; Can the engine vibration cause the screws to move forcing the balancing to be knocked out? Hence the use of thread lock?

If this is a daft question, then please be nice. I am a newbie with bike mechanics. I am interested to see whether anyone else has had any experience of this.

Cheers

Brad

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Hi All,

Just had the same problem with my brother's R1150RT. We ended up using a hot air gun around the alloy casing, trying to keep the screw itself cool, and applied around 180 degree heat. Moving the screw back and forth and using penetrating oil, they finally came out with a lot of persuasion.

I am not sure about this, but it looked like the screws had been thread locked! The muck on his brass screw was toward the end of the screw but clean above the 'O' ring.

Question; Can the engine vibration cause the screws to move forcing the balancing to be knocked out? Hence the use of thread lock?

If this is a daft question, then please be nice. I am a newbie with bike mechanics. I am interested to see whether anyone else has had any experience of this.

Cheers

Brad

Only reason anyone would use threadlock is to stop people adjusting the brass screws maliciously. Not a good idea and no, I wouldn't have thought the screws could undo themselves but I could be wrong.

 

[Green Boy]

Hi All,

Just had the same problem with my brother's R1150RT. We ended up using a hot air gun around the alloy casing, trying to keep the screw itself cool, and applied around 180 degree heat. Moving the screw back and forth and using penetrating oil, they finally came out with a lot of persuasion.

I am not sure about this, but it looked like the screws had been thread locked! The muck on his brass screw was toward the end of the screw but clean above the 'O' ring.

Question; Can the engine vibration cause the screws to move forcing the balancing to be knocked out? Hence the use of thread lock?

If this is a daft question, then please be nice. I am a newbie with bike mechanics. I am interested to see whether anyone else has had any experience of this.

Cheers

Brad

Hi Brad,

I'm glad someone else asked the question ref vibration causing the screws to move as I recently had a fair amount of work done to my bike as it was new to me and needed it. It came back running as sweet as a nut but over the last few weeks it's started to stall when cold and sound fairly mechanical. I'm not sure if I've imagined it but I'd swear that the BBS on the left pot has rotated. I'm going to keep an eye on it and will post if I notice it doing it again.

 

[rusto]

On a seized adjuster you can get penetrating fluid below the O ring by going through the idle air passage from inside the housing next to the throttle butterfly. You can bend the end of a WD40 straw to squirt it in...