Service info

[JohnnyW]

Hi Everyone,

I'm looking for some advice and info about servicing my 2001 GS1150. I'm new to BMW and GS ownership having only recently acquired my new toy. It's showing 51,000 miles on the clock but I don't have any service history for it's last 12,000 miles so I'm going to give it a major service. My last bike was a Yamaha TDM850 that I owned for 11 years and was happy to do all the servicing on that with the exception of checking the valve clearances, it's a much more complicated process than it appears to be on the GS.

Any tips or info re what to look out for while carrying out the service would be much appreciated. I had toyed with the idea of taking it into Calderon BMW in Inverness and even went so far as calling in and asking them for an estimate for carrying out an 80,0000km service. When they handed me a piece of paper showing it would cost a fiver short of £700 it didn't take a great deal of thought, once I had stopped laughing and had a quick read of my Haynes manual, to decide to service it myself. I'm going to have to order a variety of bits and pieces to do the service so is there any recommendations on who to order the service items from.

Thanks,

JohnnyW

 

[Smug]

James Sherlock or Motobins

 

[hutchy]

This might help

1150 is fairly straight forward to work on

http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/R11Manual/Oilhead_GS_Maintenance_1-20-02.pdf

Also look up Chris Harris on YouTube excellent servicing vids there


As for the rest use the forum loads of info and shop around for your replacement bits

 

[Aidan1150]

I get most of my service items from Motorworks and brake pads etc from Steptoe and have had nothing but unrivalled service from both.

Check out this section and the font of all knowledge for pictorial threads by Steptoe on everything from changing a fork seal to a full service. They will help give you the confidence to tackle routine servicing and more.

The 1150 is very easy to work on and as you have done all the servicing on your TDM you shouldn't have any bother at all.

 

[JohnnyW]

Thanks for the pointers, guys, will be setting about the bike in the next week or two.

JohnnyW

 

[Grizzly]

For A Start

As you have no history you are right to do a major service - but keep it as simple as possible for the first one

Change engine oil - I use Rock Oil Guardian 20w-50 - suits the 1150 very well.
Change oil filter - use OEM filter from motobins etc - remember you WILL need a special filter removal tool.
Change gearbox oil
Change bevel box oil
Change spark plugs - I use Champion EON2 - recommended
Check and adjust valve clearances - also check rocker end float - but perhaps not adjust float yet, unless your comfortable with it?
Check/adjust throttle body balance.
Change fuel filter - this is a bit more difficult and maybe could be left until later?

Also worth changing brake and clutch fluid - is bike ABS?
Usual checks/cleaning to brake calipers and pads.

There are plenty of other checks and settings worth doing, but you can gradually do more as time allows.
All the above would at least give peace of mind that the essentials were in good condition.


Cheers......................Grizzly

 

[a2zworks]

Well done JohnnyW,
I also bought my first BMW R1150GS with 50,000km (31,000 miles)last year and did a major service myself, not difficult at all.

The only one thing that failed on me 3 months later was a front right brake line, it perished inside and the calliper locked up doing 50km/h.
Maybe also look at replacing all brake lines if you can, SS ones are not that expensive for probably the most important piece of equipment on the motorbike.

Just in time for the northern hemisphere riding season, enjoy and stay upright.

 

[JohnnyW]

Thanks for the heads up on the oil filter removal tool, Grizzly, not something I needed on the TDM. I'm planning on renewing all the filters and changing all the oils and fluids. It is an ABS model, are there any problems associated with changing the brake fluid on this system,? This is my first ABs equipped bike. I have to say bleeding hydraulic systems is not my favourite pastime, it was always a bit of a faf doing the front brakes on the TDM.

JohnnyW

 

[GSBruce]

The spline lube is 11,000 miles overdue ....

 

[Packer]

The oil filter removal tool can be bought from a decent car accessory shop. they aren't that special. Drop the sump guard, ride to shop and just check that it slides into the filter tunnel before you leave.

If you don't have the standard tool kit you may also need a thin wall plug spanner.

Get some high moly content high melting point grease for the drive shaft splines, everyone used to recommend a Honda product but there may be better stuff around now.

As well as the very sound advice to change all of the brake hoses pull the calipers and make sure the pistons are moving freely, the design of the front mudguard means that loads of spray, salt and road dirt drop straight into the calipers.

 

[Grizzly]

Filter tool

You can just order the filter tool from the likes of Motobins at the same time as you order filters - £8.75, if that's easier?

Cheers....................Grizzly

 

[Smug]

CV joint grease is ok for the drive shaft splines.

 

[JohnnyW]

Thanks for all the tips, guys, but I have a question. There's no mention of checking and greasing the splines of the drive shaft in the maintenance schedule in my Haynes manual or the owners handbook. Is this a preventative measure that BMW recommend or is it something that the more knowledgeable contributors to this forum recommend as a result of wear issues with the splines on the final drive? If I'm going to be changing the final drive oil it would obviuosly make sense to do this at the same time.

Cheers

JohnnyW

 

[Steptoe]

Thanks for all the tips, guys, but I have a question. There's no mention of checking and greasing the splines of the drive shaft in the maintenance schedule in my Haynes manual or the owners handbook. Is this a preventative measure that BMW recommend or is it something that the more knowledgeable contributors to this forum recommend as a result of wear issues with the splines on the final drive? If I'm going to be changing the final drive oil it would obviuosly make sense to do this at the same time.

Cheers

JohnnyW

There really is no need whatsoever to grease the driveshaft splines during a service. I've never ever ever ever seen driveshaft splines worn on a 1100/1150 bike in more than 20 years of working on them..

 

[Demongroover]

With regard to the ABS brake system bleed it is more involved, however, it's actually easier as the ABS pump- does all the work for you.
Basically you will need a special ABS pump filler funnel to stop air getting in the system.
Then you bleed the master cylinder to pump lines, then the pump to caliper lines.
Sounds difficult but it's not, and it'll save you a large amount of cash on dealer labour.
There are pictoral guides available on the web / youtube etc.

If I can do it...

 

[JohnnyW]

All the bits and pieces are on their way so should be getting my hands dirty in the next week or so. One thing that will add to the fun is the fact that the bike is fitted with BMW engine bars. I'm going to have to take them off to be able to remove the sump plate to get to the oil filter and it looks like I'm going to have to remove the tank to get at the top mounting points. Oh well, I'll was planning on changing the fuel filter anyway.

JohnnyW

 

[Packer]

............................. it looks like I'm going to have to remove the tank to get at the top mounting points. Oh well, I'll was planning on changing the fuel filter anyway.

JohnnyW

Just make sure that the tank is near empty! You'll realise why if you try it even half full

 

[JohnnyW]

Just make sure that the tank is near empty! You'll realise why if you try it even half full

Thanks for the tip but I learned that one the hard way working on my previous bike, a TDM850. It had a 20ltr tank and was a lot more awkward to remove.

JohnnyW

 

[YYguy]

As you have no history you are right to do a major service - but keep it as simple as possible for the first one

Change engine oil - I use Rock Oil Guardian 20w-50 - suits the 1150 very well.
Change oil filter - use OEM filter from motobins etc - remember you WILL need a special filter removal tool.
Change gearbox oil
Change bevel box oil
Change spark plugs - I use Champion EON2 - recommended
Check and adjust valve clearances - also check rocker end float - but perhaps not adjust float yet, unless your comfortable with it?
Check/adjust throttle body balance.
Change fuel filter - this is a bit more difficult and maybe could be left until later?

Also worth changing brake and clutch fluid - is bike ABS?
Usual checks/cleaning to brake calipers and pads.

There are plenty of other checks and settings worth doing, but you can gradually do more as time allows.
All the above would at least give peace of mind that the essentials were in good condition.


Cheers......................Grizzly

I've been going through the same maintenance process on an '02 GSA. Having just finished changing the fuel filter I'd say it's a good thing to do if you do not know when it was last changed for the obvious reason but the other reason is that those little bolts can become pretty corroded and shear so it a good thing to spray them with some penetrating old and ease them off and then when you put them on again you can treat them with copper paste so that you know they'll be in OK shape the next time you have to do it.

 

[Steptoe]

With regard to the ABS brake system bleed it is more involved, however, it's actually easier as the ABS pump- does all the work for you.
Basically you will need a special ABS pump filler funnel to stop air getting in the system.
Then you bleed the master cylinder to pump lines, then the pump to caliper lines.
Sounds difficult but it's not, and it'll save you a large amount of cash on dealer labour.
There are pictoral guides available on the web / youtube etc.

If I can do it...

A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.

All your advise will do is confuse Johnny W.
His bike is a 2001 model so doesn't have servo brakes which you describe. He can simple bleed his brakes in the normal way.