Shaft inspection and re-greese

beaver

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Had a quick look at my shaft this aft.. total time taken 70mins but I didn't rush

the shaft and splines were in top condition. I think someone had been there before as there was lots of the white grease on both ends and top and botton bellows.. and grease on the splines top and bottom

I didn't pull the shaft out fully, just moved it back so I could re-grease the top splines....

was there water in there... YES! about 2.5ML or just over a teaspoon full... although how its got in I have no idea?

anyway, everything cleaned off, shaft sprayed with ACF50....and new grease added.

Observations.. the raised circle on the outside is in the correct place for a drain.
I didn't drill mine as my drill is at my Daughters... but think I will over winter.

The rear rubber boot has a metal support in it... not sure my last one did?

The rear boot bottom clip on re-assembly.. you don't actualy know its gone in and have to just trust it has.

The front tie wrap is a sod with the gear shift assist thing fitted.

so here are a few pics of how I found it........


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and some more of the water, metal support and re-assy
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Was it you that put so much gaitor grease on the boot, or was it like that, seems somebody has done the shaft already, doubt BMW use that much given the price.
 
first set is how I found it... second is me putting it back and the wire in the bellows? not sure I've seen that before?.. re-the pulling in / blowing up issue.

also .. the round pad is perfect to drain the water catch area...
 
first set is how I found it... second is me putting it back and the wire in the bellows? not sure I've seen that before?.. re-the pulling in / blowing up issue.

also .. the round pad is perfect to drain the water catch area...

Ok seems a hell of a lot of sealing grease in comparaison to what BMW put on, from the factory, and yep seen that piece of wire in the boot, think I mentioned it to warlord a while ago when his bellows where collapsing, will wait in the drilling to see what the first tests do.
 
Did Warlord have the wire?.. that was the first thing I thought when I found it... can't remember my last one having it?
 
I really don't get these shaft posts:confused:
Do the same people strip down and re-grease their car or van shafts ?:nenau

Suppose it all depends if you can afford to change your bike every 2 years, or try to keep it for 10 years or more, and personally I find it is always nice to see the how the bike is holding up in certain important areas, obviously the PCP crew will not have to do anything at all, and those that have never bought a screwdriver will just go and scream on the forums. :D
 
My 1150 didn't miss a beat after 90k mikes and 14 years. Not once did i even consider the shaft? Just as I've never about my cars or vans:confused:
 
Shaft drive:rolleyes:

A shaft drive is a shaft drive. I have only ridden shaft drive bike since 2000. But my cars and vans since 1986 and never had a shaft drive fail ?

And may that continue, please post a picture of your Wethead shaft when you hit 90k miles if you still have the bike. ;)
 
And may that continue, please post a picture of your Wethead shaft when you hit 90k miles if you still have the bike. ;)

Regrettably I sold her on five years ago. And I do regret that. So wished id have kept her. She took me everywhere, Africa, Asia and all of Europe. She is still going today. Apologies for not being able to see the shaft drive. Its on the other side ! and in a shaft cover that looks like a muscle arm !
Shaft drive will be fine. Its not a problem, only in your head :thumb
 

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Regrettably I sold her on five years ago. And I do regret that. So wished id have kept her. She took me everywhere, Africa, Asia and all of Europe. She is still going today. Apologies for not being able to see the shaft drive. Its on the other side ! and in a shaft cover that looks like a muscle arm !
Shaft drive will be fine. Its not a problem, only in your head :thumb

Lovely bike that, but was actually talking about your new bike the one with the TFT, as this is what this thread is talking about, LC shafts. :blast
 
Is there any real difference 1100, 1150, 1200 / LC drive shafts :nenau

Only that they get better as they evolve:blast:blast:blast

Not the shaft itself Nige do catchup, its something about the fitting that is letting water creep in, that is causing corrosion for some.
 
Not the shaft itself Nige do catchup, its something about the fitting that is letting water creep in, that is causing corrosion for some.

No Smog, There is not an issue at all. They all filled with water, they all rust. Its a drive shaft:blast

This issue is manufactured in ones head.

:thumb
 
No Smog, There is not an issue at all. They all filled with water, they all rust. Its a drive shaft:blast

This issue is manufactured in ones head.

:thumb

Yes you are correct, they probably do all rust. But that isn't the issue.

The issue is BMW has a shit design and it causes trouble with the Final Drive rubber boot failing. It splits....

>>>

When BMW Fit the rear rubber boot, and grease it properly, the shaft housing creates a vacuum (as the swing arm moves up and down, like bellows) which pulls the rubber boot onto the spinning shaft knuckle (as the rubber gets hotter, it stretches more). BMW Have tried to remedy this boot collapsing issue by fitting a strengthening bar, but it still doesn't work.

This then creates a split (hole) which then allows more water in.

The water pools in the shaft and can't get back out. So when you use the bike again, the shaft is spinning around in a pool of water, causing rust.

The Rust then welds the shaft to the final drive splines.... which then cannot be separated.

So.... to replace the rubber boot (which you can see has a split in it), you have to separate the shaft from the final drive, which now can't be done on the bike because it's welded itself together.

>>>>>>

This means it's a complete bag of shit. Because you can't repair the rear boot without complete shaft removal and then seperated from the final drive. This in itself is a major job for most people and may not even guarantee damage isn't done to either the shaft or final drive housing or the splines on both.

The only other way, is to not seal any of it, so the rubber boot doesn't get dragged onto the spinning shaft, and let it all just rust to hell until the final drive splines eventually weakens enough that the shaft sheers off..... AND IT WILL EVENTUALLY.

Not an ideal situation for a bike OWNER.

So in the meantime, we've been collectively trying to find out a quick and easy solution to remedy this shit design so we can all go back to moaning about paint and spokes.
 


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