Shaft Vibration
- Thread starter stephen tapson
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It astounds me that because on this forum a few failed and you can post that they failed, somehow credits your claim its common.
It is not.
It is not.
Hang on.. It was none fail, then one failed, now a few failed... are you sure this isn't an epidemic!
Do you want to see the pictures again??
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That was a k25 hexhead.Sorry to disagree, mine failed at 24K, Mikey rebuilt it - so it's not shit
TLC = change the oil at the specified intervals thats all
but driveshafts thats your territory
I’ve never touched a WC final drive
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Trust me. Your few that have failed. Are a shame. But rare.
Your pictures are probably fantastic. But completely irrelevant.
Do you know that saying "one swallow doesn't make a summer" ?
Of course "some" will fail. But the vast majority are fine.
How many more ways can I put it ?
Your pictures are probably fantastic. But completely irrelevant.
Do you know that saying "one swallow doesn't make a summer" ?
Of course "some" will fail. But the vast majority are fine.
How many more ways can I put it ?
That was a k25 hexhead.
I’ve never touched a WC final drive
(
- i keep forgetting i've moved house lol OP ignore everything i said regarding the final drive
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Told you.
You couldn't make this up !
However.........
You couldn't make this up !
However.........
At the 2 year service at 9000 miles dealer was doing a warranty related check that meant the full drivetrain had to be pulled from the box back over.
It took all day as the rear joint was rusted solid onto the shaft and took main dealer mechanics hours to shift ,all on a bike that the gaiters were fine and had barely been ridden in the rain..
On my last 2014 model gsa there was exactly the same problem at 12000 miles and the rear joint was replaced under warranty due to it being badly corroded.
To the OP it is also worth checking for play in the two bearings from the bevel box to the swingingarm which develop play after 10000 miles.
On my last bike the needle roller one was on its way out at 13,000 and replaced. Judging by the bearing it had been assembled almost dry in the factory. Once replaced the drive train felt smoother
On my current bike at 10,7000 there is now slight but discernable play in the bearing so worth looking at as once they start it gives a rough feel to the driveline.
On the newer models especially the wc ones there is an issue with the weather protection for the shaft plus a distinct lack of lubrication from the factory.
On my 1150 gs I replaced the bevel box at 44,000 miles and the shaft and joints were totally rust free, I also had a spare bevel box and shaft sitting off a 76,000 mile bike , the box input shaft and the shaft joints had zero corrosion on them.
It took all day as the rear joint was rusted solid onto the shaft and took main dealer mechanics hours to shift ,all on a bike that the gaiters were fine and had barely been ridden in the rain..
On my last 2014 model gsa there was exactly the same problem at 12000 miles and the rear joint was replaced under warranty due to it being badly corroded.
To the OP it is also worth checking for play in the two bearings from the bevel box to the swingingarm which develop play after 10000 miles.
On my last bike the needle roller one was on its way out at 13,000 and replaced. Judging by the bearing it had been assembled almost dry in the factory. Once replaced the drive train felt smoother
On my current bike at 10,7000 there is now slight but discernable play in the bearing so worth looking at as once they start it gives a rough feel to the driveline.
On the newer models especially the wc ones there is an issue with the weather protection for the shaft plus a distinct lack of lubrication from the factory.
On my 1150 gs I replaced the bevel box at 44,000 miles and the shaft and joints were totally rust free, I also had a spare bevel box and shaft sitting off a 76,000 mile bike , the box input shaft and the shaft joints had zero corrosion on them.
The shaft on my hexhead started vibrating just before it snapped.
Maybe the pandemic is not happening because people are stripping and lubricating?
stephen tapson
ExPanRider
I take on board the many comments.
For me, with only a little experience in the engineering field, it was logical that metal to metal with movement between them requires some form of lube.
But admittedly the way I went about resolving the situation was ham fisted.
BUT now I am where I am up a certain creek with you guys as paddles, so that's something. A few days ago it was looking bleak.
Situation...
Awaiting for the Drive shaft guys to get back to me on whether they were able to determine if the shaft is straight or not.
And if they were able to jury rig something up to balance it or not.
One thing I must try that I should have at least for elimination purposes is replace shaft and FD and run the bike without the rear wheel. As a pal did notice the wheel was not completely true also I have knobleys fitted for a Rallymoto even, that is now postponed.
AFTER THAT I will contact Mikey to see how to move forward.
Will keep you posted
Thanks peeps
For me, with only a little experience in the engineering field, it was logical that metal to metal with movement between them requires some form of lube.
But admittedly the way I went about resolving the situation was ham fisted.
BUT now I am where I am up a certain creek with you guys as paddles, so that's something. A few days ago it was looking bleak.
Situation...
Awaiting for the Drive shaft guys to get back to me on whether they were able to determine if the shaft is straight or not.
And if they were able to jury rig something up to balance it or not.
One thing I must try that I should have at least for elimination purposes is replace shaft and FD and run the bike without the rear wheel. As a pal did notice the wheel was not completely true also I have knobleys fitted for a Rallymoto even, that is now postponed.
AFTER THAT I will contact Mikey to see how to move forward.
Will keep you posted
Thanks peeps
With the shift to Front wheel drive, a shaft balancer would seem oddly out of place at most small garages
I remember the local garage neer where i did my apprenticeship had one, looked like a glorified lathe
To the OP assuming you have found an emporium with the requisite equipment, i wouldn't have thought it was too difficult,
given an experienced operator would have worked on numerous shafts in there lifetime.
Are you asking them to fix? or just determine if the shaft is unbalanced ? -
Only reason i mention it, is that a replacement SH shaft is £200 odd from Motorworks -
The costs of determining if the shaft is true / balanced may be a big chunk of cash that may be better spent on a sh unit,
than trying to repair the one you have.
Keep us updated on your progress
I remember the local garage neer where i did my apprenticeship had one, looked like a glorified lathe
To the OP assuming you have found an emporium with the requisite equipment, i wouldn't have thought it was too difficult,
given an experienced operator would have worked on numerous shafts in there lifetime.
Are you asking them to fix? or just determine if the shaft is unbalanced ? -
Only reason i mention it, is that a replacement SH shaft is £200 odd from Motorworks -
The costs of determining if the shaft is true / balanced may be a big chunk of cash that may be better spent on a sh unit,
than trying to repair the one you have.
Keep us updated on your progress
Used
That's not an answer is it. Any front wheel drive car will use constant velocity joints which connect to their driveshafts by splines. They are always encased by a rubber boot and have copious amounts of moly grease. A rear wheel drive car with a drive shaft is usually connected to the gearbox via a splined shaft which goes through an oil seal so the shaft on the inside of the gearbox is lubed by oil.
Surface rust on a driveshaft is largely cosmetic, but splines that are rusted solid, why would you leave that for the sake of a bit of grease, especially when you might need to pivot down the final drive on your BMW motorcycle only to find you cannot separate the two.
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Why would I need to ? I wouldn't. Been riding GS shaft drive Motorcycles for 20 years, never any problems. Also, There are no problems? What problems? Where are the posts on here about problems ?
Leave them alone.
OR.
Write a nice letter to BMW telling them they are building their Shaft drive bikes wrong, and that you know how to do it better.
Leave them alone.
OR.
Write a nice letter to BMW telling them they are building their Shaft drive bikes wrong, and that you know how to do it better.
Sorry, your confusing two totally different methods of assembly and use, and making a third.
The thread was about vibration in the shaft whereby the OP has readily admitted that his liberal use of some persuasion may have been the contributory factor to said vibration
It has nothing to do with splines, rusty or otherwise.
If you want to discuss the merits and failures of grease on splines, start a new thread, and we can have a discussion on there.
The whole point of this thread was because the poster wanted to drop his final drive and they were rusted solid. Lets say he wanted to change the oil as per schedule maintenance.
He couldn't do what is a 20 minute job because of this.
Another poster says he couldn't give a toss about rusted splines and that greasing them is bollocks and made a comparison (bogus) to driveshafts on cars.
So next time he tries changes his FD oil and cant just swing it down because it's rusted solid. Will greasing the FD splines be bollocks then ?
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What planet are you on Mrtee ?
That final drive you're talking about isnt even in this forum
That was a sealed unit, not meant to be changed
And even if you did want to change it, Be a real man, lift the front of the bike and drain it, without all that bollox .......
And yes, Worrying about drive shafts is total bollox
That final drive you're talking about isnt even in this forum
That was a sealed unit, not meant to be changed
And even if you did want to change it, Be a real man, lift the front of the bike and drain it, without all that bollox .......
And yes, Worrying about drive shafts is total bollox
Does your bike have alloy wheels?
Alloys do warp and run out of true.
Alloys do warp and run out of true.
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