Sheltex, how good is it?

Pro shell Goretex is bonded to the cordura, so water pretty much just runs off it. :clap

If you get Goretex Performance shell (P shell) or anything else, it is a layer under the cordura. These jackets also keep you dry, but just soak up water and take forever to dry out (bitter experience!!).

I wouldn't get anything but Pro shell now even if it does cost more....

zappa

Ok, thanks
 
The only way you can make something really waterproof and keep the material breathable is this: P2i ( http://www.p2i.com/ ) technology,you can have the finished product then waterproof it. It is quiet amazing. This means that leather for the first time could be made waterproof ( ie the water just runs of ) without using a tanning or adding additionally materials.
 
The trouble is that I'm limited to choice as after a very near miss, in which a friend wasn't so lucky, I will only wear hi-vis stuff :(. I'm prepared to pay up to about £350 for a jacket, but not prepared to pay some of the ridiculously high prices. It does have to have good armour though,as well as being waterproof and warm in winter, whilst having good vents for summer.

There's a Rukka Armas jacket that comes with HiVis, and the Gore-Tex coating, but it is way above the price you specified :(

Bit of a dopey question (but I'm going to ask it anyway) ;) - wouldn't it be easier to meet your needs with a separate Hi Vis waistcoat?

I don't mean the crappy things that are used on building sites etc. but a "proper" motorcycle specific one which fits properly so it doesn't flap about and is good and durable.

There's some good examples here; http://www.motorcycleinfo.co.uk/index.cfm?fa=contentGeneric.twhhyjzpxapzkouq&pageId=99925

That would give you a wider choice of jackets and might allow you to get what you want in terms of performance without exceeding your price range (provided you were prepared to go with lightly used rather than brand new)...
 
Bit of a dopey question (but I'm going to ask it anyway) ;) - wouldn't it be easier to meet your needs with a separate Hi Vis waistcoat?

...

Yeah I've got one, but I still find them a bit of a pain in the arse kitting up and de-kitting to be honest, plus it's another layer to add heat in the summer :blast
 
How good is sheltex

I have done over 500,000 miles in various types of gear and been taken in by all types of spiel. The only sure way to stay dry and warm is to wear a waterproofed fabric trousers and jacket with a cheap standard all in one or 2 piece plastic backed nylon suit over the top. The outer layer keeps out the cold and the worst of the rain and snow so the second layer can keep you dry and warm. You do not need to spend lots of money just follow the formula and make sure your fabrics are comfortable with plenty of room round the wrists so ypu get a good blood flow to keep your hands warm. As for breathability if both gore and sheltex are good but if the outer material gets wet you WILL get cold.
 
The only sure way to stay dry and warm is to wear a waterproofed fabric trousers and jacket with a cheap standard all in one or 2 piece plastic backed nylon suit over the top.

that is not "the only sure way to stay dry and warm" at all :rolleyes:
 
I have done over 500,000 miles in various types of gear and been taken in by all types of spiel. The only sure way to stay dry and warm is to wear a waterproofed fabric trousers and jacket with a cheap standard all in one or 2 piece plastic backed nylon suit over the top. The outer layer keeps out the cold and the worst of the rain and snow so the second layer can keep you dry and warm. You do not need to spend lots of money just follow the formula and make sure your fabrics are comfortable with plenty of room round the wrists so ypu get a good blood flow to keep your hands warm. As for breathability if both gore and sheltex are good but if the outer material gets wet you WILL get cold.


Good old "boil in the bag" suits I'm amazed people still use these:rolleyes:
Gore tex "pro shell" is the daddy :thumb2
 
Ive got the HG tricky 3 goretex suit which is great up to about 18degrees , any hotter I'm sweating like a rapist, I have a europe trip each year and use a HG airflow suit (bit like a tea bag) and have an all in one rainsuit packed just in case it rains, it was 35degrees in the south of france last year and i was hot but comfortable .
 
Is there a way to tell if it's bonded to the outside, or will it just tell you on the label?

The trouble is that I'm limited to choice as after a very near miss, in which a friend wasn't so lucky, I will only wear hi-vis stuff :(. I'm prepared to pay up to about £350 for a jacket, but not prepared to pay some of the ridiculously high prices. It does have to have good armour though,as well as being waterproof and warm in winter, whilst having good vents for summer.

Put the hi-viz on as a separate layer, easier to replace when it gets manky.
 
I'm a relative newbie here, but waterproof clothing and how it works is somewhat of a pet interest of mine.

Clothing that has a waterproof membrane, whatever it is, GoreTex, eVent, Sympatex, Shelltex the membrane is a second line of defence for waterproofing. It allows you to create a complex item of clothing with may seams and different outer fabrics and then line it with a waterproof barrier to prevent any ingress of water through the fabric or seams from coming into contact with you.

Your first line of defence for waterproofing is what's called the DWR (Durable Water Repellent) coating that is on the outside of the fabric and it what causes the water to bead and roll off the jacket - with a good, well maintained DWR coating the waterproof membrane really doesn't even get a look in, its just there as a belt and braces approach. Outer fabrics of most jacket will be inherently breathable (leather, cordura etc), they have a weave (or pores in the case of leather) that allows vapour to exit and the DWR ensures that the surface tension is high enough the keep water beading and rolling off, so in fact technically speaking the membrane is not required to give you a waterproof breathable jacket (I do a lot of walking and Paramo, a clothing brand I use a lot, that is owned by NikWax use this principle in ALL their waterproof/breathable clothing)

Now, over time the DWR coating wears off a jacket particularly at rub-points and now the fabric "wets out" as it's called, where the water soaks into the outer layer of fabric and no longer beads off - when this happens you are now using the membrane as the water will soak through the outer layer and the membrane will prevent it from entering the inside of the jacket.

So membranes are a good second line defence for a poorly maintained or ageing DWR. Essentially you could line the inside of a jacket with something akin to a bin-liner and get the same waterproof backup for a wetted-out jacket. But bin-liners aren't breathable so this is where the technology in membranes like Gore-Tex, eVent, Shelltex etc come in.

All these membranes use a similar approach to provide a barrier that allows vapour to pass one way and prevent water droplets coming the other the differences are around the materials used to perform this.

Gore-Tex: This uses a PTFE mesh that has tiny pores that allow vapour to pass through but prevent droplets. PTFE on it's own is very delicate and the pores can clog with oils and dirt so in Gore-Tex this is protected by an incredibly thin membrane of Polyurethane (PU). This PU is hydrophillic, meaning it loves water, and as such sweat will condense on the inside, pass through the membrane (basically by osmosis) driven by your body heat and a desire to equalise moisture levels inside and out, once past the PU membrane, the water can re-evaporate pass through the PTFE and ultimately through the jacket outer fabric.

eVent also uses a PTFE membrane but instead of laminating this with PU, they coat the entire mesh in PU - this gives the protection to the PTFE that is required, but doesn't create a barrier so eVent will allow direct vapour transfer without the condensation/re-evaporation step needed for Gore-Tex, so eVent is even more breathable.

Sympatex/Shelltex etc: Most other "branded" membranes can't use a PTFE mesh membrane laminate as this is the patented part of GoreTex. These membranes use different laminates of Polyester (hydrophilic ones and hydrophobic ones) to perform the moisture transfer but due to there not being a truly porous component like the PTFE mesh, the breathability will suffer.

However, an important additional point is that once the outer fabric of a jacket is wetted-out, it is now no longer vapour permeable so whatever membrane you have it can only get the sweat to the inside of the outer fabric and you will still feel wet, but from the inside.

So, in summary, the MOST IMPORTANT thing for keeping dry is not the membrane in your jacket, it's how well you look after the DWR. Regularly washing the jacket in a proprietary "technical clothing" cleaner and treating with something to renew the DWR is your first line of defence - if you neglect this piece, although no water will come into the jacket, your sweat can't ultimately get out you will still feel wet. As someone pointed out earlier, motorcycling is a relatively low-effort activity compared to hiking or mountain climbing so you will not be generating buckets of sweat and I would say that any membrane, combined with clever ventilation and a well maintained DWR should keep you dry and comfortable.

Hope someone finds the above interesting! :thumb
 
interesting, just to clarify what do you recommend then for cleaning and reproofing a goretex garment.?
 
I'm a relative newbie here, but waterproof clothing and how it works is somewhat of a pet interest of mine.

Clothing that has a waterproof membrane, whatever it is, GoreTex, eVent, Sympatex, Shelltex the membrane is a second line of defence for waterproofing. It allows you to create a complex item of clothing with may seams and different outer fabrics and then line it with a waterproof barrier to prevent any ingress of water through the fabric or seams from coming into contact with you.

Your first line of defence for waterproofing is what's called the DWR (Durable Water Repellent) coating that is on the outside of the fabric and it what causes the water to bead and roll off the jacket - with a good, well maintained DWR coating the waterproof membrane really doesn't even get a look in, its just there as a belt and braces approach. Outer fabrics of most jacket will be inherently breathable (leather, cordura etc), they have a weave (or pores in the case of leather) that allows vapour to exit and the DWR ensures that the surface tension is high enough the keep water beading and rolling off, so in fact technically speaking the membrane is not required to give you a waterproof breathable jacket (I do a lot of walking and Paramo, a clothing brand I use a lot, that is owned by NikWax use this principle in ALL their waterproof/breathable clothing)

Now, over time the DWR coating wears off a jacket particularly at rub-points and now the fabric "wets out" as it's called, where the water soaks into the outer layer of fabric and no longer beads off - when this happens you are now using the membrane as the water will soak through the outer layer and the membrane will prevent it from entering the inside of the jacket.

So membranes are a good second line defence for a poorly maintained or ageing DWR. Essentially you could line the inside of a jacket with something akin to a bin-liner and get the same waterproof backup for a wetted-out jacket. But bin-liners aren't breathable so this is where the technology in membranes like Gore-Tex, eVent, Shelltex etc come in.

All these membranes use a similar approach to provide a barrier that allows vapour to pass one way and prevent water droplets coming the other the differences are around the materials used to perform this.

Gore-Tex: This uses a PTFE mesh that has tiny pores that allow vapour to pass through but prevent droplets. PTFE on it's own is very delicate and the pores can clog with oils and dirt so in Gore-Tex this is protected by an incredibly thin membrane of Polyurethane (PU). This PU is hydrophillic, meaning it loves water, and as such sweat will condense on the inside, pass through the membrane (basically by osmosis) driven by your body heat and a desire to equalise moisture levels inside and out, once past the PU membrane, the water can re-evaporate pass through the PTFE and ultimately through the jacket outer fabric.

eVent also uses a PTFE membrane but instead of laminating this with PU, they coat the entire mesh in PU - this gives the protection to the PTFE that is required, but doesn't create a barrier so eVent will allow direct vapour transfer without the condensation/re-evaporation step needed for Gore-Tex, so eVent is even more breathable.

Sympatex/Shelltex etc: Most other "branded" membranes can't use a PTFE mesh membrane laminate as this is the patented part of GoreTex. These membranes use different laminates of Polyester (hydrophilic ones and hydrophobic ones) to perform the moisture transfer but due to there not being a truly porous component like the PTFE mesh, the breathability will suffer.

However, an important additional point is that once the outer fabric of a jacket is wetted-out, it is now no longer vapour permeable so whatever membrane you have it can only get the sweat to the inside of the outer fabric and you will still feel wet, but from the inside.

So, in summary, the MOST IMPORTANT thing for keeping dry is not the membrane in your jacket, it's how well you look after the DWR. Regularly washing the jacket in a proprietary "technical clothing" cleaner and treating with something to renew the DWR is your first line of defence - if you neglect this piece, although no water will come into the jacket, your sweat can't ultimately get out you will still feel wet. As someone pointed out earlier, motorcycling is a relatively low-effort activity compared to hiking or mountain climbing so you will not be generating buckets of sweat and I would say that any membrane, combined with clever ventilation and a well maintained DWR should keep you dry and comfortable.

Hope someone finds the above interesting! :thumb

you need to get out more:thumb
 
The most important thing when cleaning garments that you want to apply a DWR to are that you DO NOT use a normal washing detergent - these have chemicals (so called water-wetters) in that are designed to reduce the surface tension of the water so that is specifically soaks right into the fabric.

You can either use a proprietary product like Nikwax TechWash, or as I do, get some "Granny's pure soap flakes" from the supermarket as these will clean without leaving residue that will make the jacket wet-out straight away. If doing this in the washing machine, make sure you wash out the soap-drawer before hand to remove any traces of detergent.

Once clean you can use a wash-in re-proofer like Nikwax TX-Direct which will restore the DWR properties, or you can also get the same stuff in a spray-on treatment. Whichever you use, spray-on or wash-in to get the best DWR performance, although not essential, you should tumble dry the garment on a low heat or dry it in a warm airing cupboard which helps the DWR bond with the fabric.

There are other options to Nikwax products, but the soap-flakes followed by wash-in TX-Direct is what I personally use for all my gear.

If done correctly, water should run off it like a ducks back.
 
Hope someone finds the above interesting! :thumb

i did
respect-023.gif
 


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