Shit, need help.

Dizzy

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So, I was adjusting the handle bars and I have overtightened one of the bolts and yes you've guessed it I've snapped one of the bolts!!:blast:blast:blast:blast

Anyway, I guess it needs tapping out but I was after advice to see if it can be drilled and taken out without changing the original thread size?

Also, the clamps always seem very clampy and usually you cannot rotate the bars without fully undoing the bolts but I wondered if it's still safe to ride with one bolt snapped near the bottom of the top clamp?
 
If it sheared tightening up ,it may come out without to much stress.
Unless you have a bit of mechanical knowledge and decent kit don't be tempted to mess with it as you will just make the job harder for an engineer.
If you have a local engineering company nip it down there:thumb
Edit,it's probably a high tensile bolt,don't reach for the black and decker unless you can deal with the consequences
 
Unless it's bottomed out in the hole it will probably just unscrew. You may need to give it a gentle tap with a centre punch to get it started.
Worth a try.
I wouldn't ride it with a bolt snapped, imagine having to do an emergency stop.
 
I've just watched a YouTube video off someone using a left hand metal drill bit after drill a small hole to get it started, the method being centre pressure in an anti-clockwise direction.
 
I've just watched a YouTube video off someone using a left hand metal drill bit after drill a small hole to get it started, the method being centre pressure in an anti-clockwise direction.

I don't know your skill levels,but I have seen plenty of snapped drill bits and eazyouts in sheared bolts,it really does naff the job up.
Unless you know what you are doing leave it for someone who does.
Just my opinion of course:D
 
This happened to me when tightening the top shock absorber bolt on my triumph boneville.

Centre punch it dead centre and drill a 3mm pilot hole into the remaining stud. Then a lager diameter drill, maybe about 7mm.
Tap in a stud extractor to make it bite into the stud. Make sure you drill the hole deep enough to make sure the extractor doesn't bottom out.
Then unscrew it with a spanner.

Good luck.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pro-craft-stud-extractor-set-8-pcs/20084
 
I don't know your skill levels,but I have seen plenty of snapped drill bits and eazyouts in sheared bolts,it really does naff the job up.
Unless you know what you are doing leave it for someone who does.
Just my opinion of course:D

Exactly, as above, or you'll end up with a right nightmare..
 
Thanks for all the advice. My trouble is impatience so would probably rush it and cock it up!
 
Has it snapped off flush with the bottom half or higher ? If removing the rest of the clamp gives you access to say 5/6 mm of bolt you will likely be able to get it out with mole grips.
 
The easy way is to centre punch the broken bolt then knock a Torx bit into the hole,
As already mentioned it's likely to screw back out,
 
I have a set of anti clockwise drill bits ,on a number of occasions I've removed broken bolts using them.

Trick is to centre punch the broken bolt and using a normal clockwise drill bit start off a very small pilot hole.

Then switch to the anti clockwise bits and on a slow speed start to drill making sure you keep it parallel to the bolt, usually the drill bit will bite into the bolt and screw it out of the hole, once it starts coming and you can get it the remains of the bolt they will unscrew with mole grips.

Avoid easyouts they are usually guaranteed to snap in the hole and you will never get the remains out unless you get it spark eroded

Ps they are brilliant for removing anti tamper screws or allen head fasteners that have the centre turned out of them
 
No, for this one you will need patience. Just 5 minutes of your life. If you snap the eazyout then you will discover new swear words. No drill drills that metal.
 
Have a look around local for someone whos job it is to get out sheared bolts. We use a guy known locally as the drill doctor and he works miracles with such things as snapped spark plugs and head bolts.
 
Tried YMFB's advice first. I managed to get a hold of the smidgen left with pliers and it offered no resistance. Result!
Swapped them out for hex bolts and ready to go:thumb2


Thank you to all for the advice!!
 
... and don't forget to torque them up in the right order. Insert and tighten front bolts to 19nm and then insert and tighten rear bolts to 19 nm. (There should be no gap between the clamp and the headstock at the front and a gap at the rear). I know this is not relevant to getting the snapped bolt out but I thought it might help. I am told that over tightening and incorrect sequence is a common mistake.
 


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