shock life

I suspect mine (at 26K on the shock) is beginning to kick back over bumps - a sign the damping is failing. No leaks yet but a sign it needs to be rebuilt or replaced.
 
Wouldn't an ESA shock that was set up right more of the time last longer than a non ESA one, which may be set for solo and not adjusted for two up?

Can't see why it would make any difference, TBH. Damper components wear because they move when the bike is ridden. The amount by which they move isn't affected by adjusting the preload (which is what the solo/luggage/two-up setting changes), although it *is* affected by the way the bike is ridden, the surfaces on which it is ridden and the load it carries while being ridden. Environment (i.e. dust/grit etc) also makes a big difference - but again this has nothing to do with the mechanism used to adjust the preload etc.

Besides, ESA gives you fewer options for adjustment - you can only choose a few fixed combinations for the preload and damping adjusters, unlike the manual version which allows you to set front and rear preload independently (and to whatever exact setting you wish).
 
Can't see why it would make any difference, TBH. Damper components wear because they move when the bike is ridden. The amount by which they move isn't affected by adjusting the preload (which is what the solo/luggage/two-up setting changes), although it *is* affected by the way the bike is ridden, the surfaces on which it is ridden and the load it carries while being ridden. Environment (i.e. dust/grit etc) also makes a big difference - but again this has nothing to do with the mechanism used to adjust the preload etc.

Besides, ESA gives you fewer options for adjustment - you can only choose a few fixed combinations for the preload and damping adjusters, unlike the manual version which allows you to set front and rear preload independently (and to whatever exact setting you wish).

If shocks are allowed to bottom out then that will increase the wear afaik? I also doubt many riders ever set about their suspension with a c spanner
 
Why would it increase wear? Wear occurs when slidey parts slide over one another. Bottoming out simply batters the bump rubbers.
 
The oil degrades fails to lubricate the shock internals and the damping goes downhill. In some cases the oil cushions the stop at full droop and full bump. Sticky oil can't do the job so the shock starts to crash at full extension.
 
The oil degrades fails to lubricate the shock internals and the damping goes downhill. In some cases the oil cushions the stop at full droop and full bump. Sticky oil can't do the job so the shock starts to crash at full extension.

What you appear to be saying is that once the shock is worn out (i.e. the damper oil has degraded to the point where it no longer does what it's supposed to do), a situation arises where incorrect preload adjustment (because the rider can't be bothered to get the tools out to adjust it) might allow the shock to top/bottom out during riding, which in turn might lead to hammering of the internal components?
 
Just to resurrect this thread, I went to move the GSA in the garage to start work on the R1 refurb and noticed a small puddle of oil on the garage floor beneath the rear shock. Looks like my rear shock seal is weeping (at 32K) so I am about to send the shock off to MCT for a rebuild and commute to work by car next week. A good job its pay day this week.
 
09 ESA suspension was crap my front blown out after 70 miles 2 days from new and rear was gone after 18k.. removed the units and got them changed to wilbers...transformed bike now.
 


Back
Top Bottom