Shocks

[Hoff]

Hi
I am just about to replace my OEM shocks with Wilburs and my question is about grade of Loctite.
Having read some of the horror stories recently, especially about steal into aluminium, I thought I would ask for any advice.
John at Revs Suspension says to use red on the top and bottom rear, red on the bottom front and blue on the top front. He obviously knows what he is talking about but recent threads make me pose this question
Thanks in advance for any info.
Paul

 

[rocky burns]

I've never used any when replacing shocks... They have never fell off yet...

 

[Bendy toy]

I'm surprised he's using red (permanent) though if its possible to get the area hot enough it can be softened at >100C

From the USA Henkel website http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/industrial/Loctite-Threadlockers-by-Color-14023.htm

High Strength Permanent Red LOCTITE® Threadlockers. Learn more about red high strength threadlockers. ...
Medium Strength Removable Blue LOCTITE® Threadlockers. ...
Low Strength (small thread) Purple LOCTITE® Threadlockers. ...
Preassembled Wicking Grade Green LOCTITE® Threadlockers.


After my bike was stripped for the frames to be powder coated, I used blue on all of my shock bolts. They have now done about 6K with no sign of any loosening. The original (which I heated to remove) had been blue.

I recently bought a new OEM bolt and nut for the rear paralever bush. The bolt has pre applied blue threadlock. The bolt in use is stainless (horror) with a Nyloc nut and again no signs of any loosening. My MOT tester (a motor engineer) was quite happy to see the stainless bolt, but I felt it better to go to the correct OEM standard. BMW should know what they are doing.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Just torque them up at both ends

Loctite and Alloy is a total fuck up !

I don't know how many times I have come very close to scrapping a part because some twat has a teaspoon of loctite on it instead of 2 DROPS

If you are worried that the parts may move put a line of tippex across the nut or bolt head and onto the stationary part

If something moves the line goes out of shape and you have a very easy visual check

 

[Bones]

I've never used any when replacing shocks... They have never fell off yet...

Same here. Just a little grease or copper slip to lubricate the thread

 

[earthmover]

Never used loctite or any other threadlock. Had more problems trying to undo stuck threads than I have with things coming loose.
Mark

 

[Bendy toy]

I use Loctite on stainless to stainless because it reduces the risk of threads self welding. Also stainless has no thread spring so can shake loose more easily.

Most of my fasteners have an industrial grade anti seize paste (Copaslip is noting special by the way). The only ones to come loose were stainless where the rear subframe attaches to the engine. The original bolts were rusty and I had suitable stainless bolts in the shed. No harm done and they had since stayed put. They are anti seized but not Loctited.

 

[Hoff]

Thanks for your comments.
I will leave the loctite on the shelf.
Paul

 

[Bendy toy]

The OEM bolt at the bottom of my rear shock was thread locked but came out fine. The bolt went back with anti seize stuff over the whole bolt need to end. I've had quite a few OEM bolts where the plating had failed. Thankfully only one that was a problem to remove.