Shortening a GSA centre stand

[KevinW]

I'm not sure if this a damn fool question or not but I don't know the answer so I'm going to ask it.

I've had the suspension on our GSA shortened by 15mm. Putting it on the centre stand when it's got luggage on wasn't a problem before I had that done but now it's a bit of a tug of war.

I was going to try a GS stand but they appear to be about 25mm shorter than the ones on the GSA and I think it will be too short so I've bought a 2nd-hand GSA stand that I'm going to have shortened. Is it reasonable to assume that if the suspension has been shortened by 15mm the stand should be shortened by the same amount?

(Shall we take responses along the lines of me needing to build more muscle or improve my technique as read?)

Thanks.

Kevin

 

[Bobbin-Man]

On the face of it assuming it's now 15mm lower (rather than 15mm shorter springs) your idea of reducing the stand by 15mm would seem correct. As a trial maybe put a couple of 15mm thick spacers under the wheels and see whether the normal length stand works okay?

 

[Fanum]

On the face of it assuming it's now 15mm lower (rather than 15mm shorter springs) your idea of reducing the stand by 15mm would seem correct.

I disagree.

It's dropped down by x at one end, but don't forget that the centre stand is way further back.

If the centre stand was exactly in the middle, it would need to have half of the difference taken off it to give the same proportions as originally

The geometry is simple enough to work out by drawing up some triangles and doing some basic trigonometry with the actual measurements, but this is real life......I'd suggest taking it down by about half (7-8mm) then try it for feel....you may decide that's perfect, or you may want to shave a bit more off to make it even easier than it was before.

Taking it OFF is easy...but cut too much off initially and it's a lot harder and more involved to put some length back on

 

[Greenman14]

If I had to do this I think my first approach would be to remove the stand, cut the required amount from each leg, below the cross tube, and have it welded back up. It might be an idea to use an internal sleeve at the welded joint as the wall thickness is likely to be thin and a sleeve would help maintain alignment of the tubing.

 

[Bobbin-Man]

I disagree.

It's dropped down by x at one end, but don't forget that the centre stand is way further back.

Why are you assuming it's only been lowered at the rear or have I missed something in the OP?

 

[longjohn]

If I had to do this I think my first approach would be to remove the stand, cut the required amount from each leg, below the cross tube, and have it welded back up. It might be an idea to use an internal sleeve at the welded joint as the wall thickness is likely to be thin and a sleeve would help maintain alignment of the tubing.

I did exactly what is quoted with no problems.

 

[Fanum]

Why are you assuming it's only been lowered at the rear or have I missed something in the OP?

No, my bad.

It's usual to lower the back more though

 

[KevinW]

No, my bad.

It's usual to lower the back more though

Your initial post got me thinking as I'd always assumed both would be lowered the same amount so I dropped a note to MCT asking the question.

I agree that it will be better to nibble at it than cut too much off and I hadn't considered that.

Kevin

 

[KevinW]

If I had to do this I think my first approach would be to remove the stand, cut the required amount from each leg, below the cross tube, and have it welded back up. It might be an idea to use an internal sleeve at the welded joint as the wall thickness is likely to be thin and a sleeve would help maintain alignment of the tubing.

I'm going to put it into my local bike shop to have it done as I have enough trouble glueing let alone welding. I confess I'm a bit concerned that it may be a weak point.

Kevin

 

[(RIP) Miff]

I'm going to put it into my local bike shop to have it done as I have enough trouble glueing let alone welding. I confess I'm a bit concerned that it may be a weak point.

Kevin

If it's sleeved and welded properly, then it should be stronger than the OE stand.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Easy solution just carry a bit of wood an 2 inches wide an inch thick and a foot long Set it behind the rear wheel and roll back onto wood to elevate the rear

If insufficient lift is attained then a thicker dod of wood is required

 

[Alan R]

How about, instead of cutting and shutting and the tubing and introducing a new weld, cut the feet off, reduce the tubing by the required amount then grind out the stubs from the feet and re- weld them back on. The result will be stronger and look no different to an unmodified stand.
Alan R

 

[Greenman14]

My preference would be for a TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) weld. This gives the welder more control and a better quality weld, especially on thin sections. A more likely approach would be a MIG (Metal Inert Gas) weld. This uses cheaper equipment and for just sticking things together, as opposed to welding them, it can be ok.

I confess to being fussy about welding, it comes from repairing boiler tubes subject to 180bar pressure and 450C temperature.

 

[boatman]

How about, instead of cutting and shutting and the tubing and introducing a new weld, cut the feet off, reduce the tubing by the required amount then grind out the stubs from the feet and re- weld them back on. The result will be stronger and look no different to an unmodified stand.
Alan R

+1

 

[chad]

pop over here with it one weekend And ill sort it for ya

 

[Rare-Red]

Measure the gap under the back wheel of a standard bike then measure yours as is subtract one from the other and that's what you have to cut off

 

[Bendy toy]

Post #2 has the best approach. Put a 15mm thick board under the back wheel and see if the stand works the same as before the bike was lowered. If not enough improvement, put another piece under the front wheel and try again. Then as already said cut the feet off the stand shorten the legs and reweld.

DONT allow it to be welded on the bike not even for tacking. It will blow the electronics. In any case the job wont be accurate.

Dont use the local bike shop. How often does any bike get welded these days?

Dont use the local car garage they will simply stick it together with MIG.

Do use a local engineering company or even better bespoke pipe manufacturers. If possible have it brazed using an oxy-gas torch or TIG welded.

When done have the stand shot blasted, passivate primed and powder coated.

Andy at Xtreme Stainless would probably do the job for you. He's doesn't exclusively use stainless steel and does good work at reasonable prices. He has TIG equipment and can also arrange the powder coating. He also does mail order so have it shipped over, modified and shipped back.

http://www.xtremestainless.co.uk/contact-us

 

[KevinW]

Measure the gap under the back wheel of a standard bike then measure yours as is subtract one from the other and that's what you have to cut off

That's not a bad idea. Unfortunately I don't have access to a standard GSA so would someone like to volunteer to get me the measurement please?

Kevin

 

[KevinW]

Dont use the local bike shop. How often does any bike get welded these days?

<snip>

Andy at Xtreme Stainless would probably do the job for you. He's doesn't exclusively use stainless steel and does good work at reasonable prices. He has TIG equipment and can also arrange the powder coating. He also does mail order so have it shipped over, modified and shipped back.

http://www.xtremestainless.co.uk/contact-us

Good advice but the local bike shop recently welded some strengthening pieces on to our FJR sub-frame to support the auxiliary lights...except they didn't, they sent it to a local engineering firm they trust and I anticipated they would have done the same with the stand. I prefer it that way as I don't have to try to pick a good engineering firm and the shop, with whom I have a very good relationship, will take responsibility for the work.

I'll contact Andy anyway as if he can do the lot that'll save me from having to sort out the paint. Thanks for the recommendation.

Kevin

 

[Bobbin-Man]

That's not a bad idea. Unfortunately I don't have access to a standard GSA so would someone like to volunteer to get me the measurement please?

Kevin

No, go back to Fanum's first post .... the centre stand touches down pretty well in the middle. Assuming the front wheel is on the ground the measurement you've just taken would need dividing by 2.