4th September 2012
Great day today, weather held out and we picked the much quieter of the 2 possible routes which brought us along the Volga river! We stopped for some salianka for lunch in one of the many roadside cafe's and had a good laugh with the two women running it. About an hour from Saratov we needed fuel so once bikes were full I bought mark and I a twix which we ate standing on the petrol station for court, whilst we were standing there the guy from the station brought us out 4 rolls which we ate and were very tasty when we went in to thank him and his mother they made us tea and put a bowel of grapes in front of us! The generosity and helpfulness we have found here is amazing, Russian people are great! Had to take the injector out again today to give it a clean, I think we are just pushing the dirt around in it but it seems to last longer each time before clogging up!
5th September 2012
This is our last day in Russia we’ll be heading for Kiev in the Ukraine, We have about 850km to do which as I said before is quite tough on an enduro bike. I want my GS back for this part of the journey!
Weather was great today and started off well until the first petrol Station we stopped in was being refurbished which shouldn’t be a problem until the next 3 were also being refurbished or closed, eventually I ran out but as marks safari tank holds 5 more ltrs so we split that and thankfully the next petrol station although closed for lunch was open!
We stopped for lunch in another roadside café and again had a good laugh with the girls while we were trying to decipher the menu.P
Got to the Russian boarder and we were the only ones there again so straight through without to much of a problem, the Ukraine border was a different kettle of fish with the first official asking for a present of money before he gave us the paper we needed and so it went on with the next 2 asking for money as well but we told them their collegues cleaned us out and eventually we got through! This experience left us wondering what problems we’d have with the police if customs are so blatantly corrupt.
6th September 2012
We are travelling from Kiev to L’viv today to meet Mide, 5 eyes and smelly brother, it’s a 600km run but hopefully the last of the mile munching and maybe a bit more sightseeing.
It’s a beautiful sunny hot day when we left the hotel but Just as we reach the outskirts of Kiev the heavens opened up and we were soaked to the skin in seconds, visibility was so bad we had to stop in a café until the worst passed. It rained the whole 600km and at one stage we were riding towards the sunshine and then the road veered off under the black clouds.
We arrived at the hotel at 7pm and Mide, Gary and Ned were waiting outside with a bottle of Champaign to shower us with! (nice touch Gary, Thanks matey!) we had 3 large vodkas then into the shower to warm up before heading out to the Irish pub (Dublin) the rest is a bit of a blur!
7th September 2012
Left L’viv today through the border into Poland then across to Slovakia to meet some friends of Gary’s and a bit of a party!
The border crossing today was the busiest yet with a mile long queue, luckily we were able to shoot down the outside to the front but still took us 2 hours to get through!
The fuel price went up 50% from Russia to the Ukraine and now another jump up to the same price we pay at home, the cheapest we found it in Russia was £0.54 a litre!
Poland and Slovakian roads were great and Gary knew a beautiful route to Bardejov where we were staying, Gary’s friend Lubo sent a taxi for us to bring us to his house where they had laid on loads of great food and drink and the Slovakian poitín of 2 different strengths the weaker one was Slivavica and the stronger one was Sliva fecking vica which blows your head off and makes you pull the same face as Ken when he was drinking Schnapps in the black forest last year!
8th September 2012
Day off the bikes today which is just as well, had to change Mark’s back tire and check over the other bikes.
After the bike repairs we headed out to another friend of Gary’s where once again there was a massive spread of food and Sliva fecking vica for those that wanted it but we gave that a miss, left there about 5 and popped into Lubo’s brother for a cup of tea and again more food put up in front of us! Really nice people here good value for money and great roads means I’ll be back.
9th September 2012
We left Bardejov on the 77 heading for the high Tatras and Spisska bella then the 67 across the mountains and down to the E50 which was a lovely route with great twisty roads and beautiful views. We come across a toboggan run and Míde, Gary, Ned and I had a couple of goes, great craic!! Our destination was Brno and we arrived here around 6pm showered and had a walk around the city centre.
We stayed in a 4 star hotel in the middle of the city and with no secure parking we had to park the bikes up tight to the lobby which looked nice outside this posh hotel, the next day they tried charging us €50 for parking on the pavement with no security! We got them down to €30 but still a bit of a liberty me thinks.
10th September 2012
Left Brno after 5 or 6 breakfasts each from the ‘all you can eat buffet’, heading for Prague via the church of bones in Kutna Hura, we chose the quiet roads which again brought us through some beautiful countryside and charming little villages. It was a great spin to the church of bones and a very interesting place to see apparently the remains of 40,000 people are on display here, they were victims of the plague that were buried in a 3500 square metre grave which they wanted to reduce so dug up all the remains and left them piled up outside the church until a carpenter came a 1870 and started making decorations for the church out of them. The chandelier has every single bone in the human body in it!!
We left the church and headed for Prague where we had our showers then headed out for a walk round the town which ended in another Irish pub for a few pints of Guinness.