Simple, NO COST servo removal of 1150 IABS system

Is it possible it wont work keeping the wire connector?

I have jumped the 5 wires as described and the stop light is always on!?
 
Maybe you have a brake lever slightly activated? Which may be why the system was showing fail originally!

Did you cut the wires as it says to do in the first post???

I Think it is about time this thread disappeared and a new one with the "NEW" method of Removing the Faulty Servo ABS system
 
DrFarkoff said:
Maybe you have a brake lever slightly activated? Which may be why the system was showing fail originally!

Did you cut the wires as it says to do in the first post???
Click to expand...

Done! The step a) and b) weren't well connected...:blast:blast:blast:blast

Didn't cut the wires as it says but's working fine. I'm going to rebuild the abs with these guys https://rhelectronics.de/produkt/type-am1/, meanwhile the bike is street legal with stop light!

Any comments on RH Electronics?
 
looking for help,

Hi all ,
I am new to the site, It Looks Great,
I recently did a ABSectomy on my 04 GSA everything with the brakes came out fine ,Except I have no brake lights , I did plug the original wiring harness back in after removing the abs section , I think I need to do the rewiring of the brake light wires like in the beginning of the post, But I an having trouble Identifying the correct wires ,(I want get it right the first time and not mess anything up)
If anyone can send me some more detailed instructions it would be Greatly Appreciated,
Thanks,
Mike M.:thumb2

PS Some of the photos in the beginning of the post are not available to me at this point,I cannot view them,
Thanks
 
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if you did not cut anything and you have just plugged the electronics section back into the loom then sidelamps and brake lamps should work!


Note Do Not Cut Any wires!!!

Just remove the electronics box from the ABS unit you have to organise some way to Seal the electronics box up so that it cannot get wet!!!

Some light plastic and some good seam sealer should work

and mount it back to the bike with a bit of rubber mat to try and cut down vibrations ?

Remove the Blue relay from the Fuse box this should leave you with only one ABS lamp illuminated and you simply reach up and remove the bulb holder and take out the bulb and refit the bulb holder in the dash!

Equals Job Done

Check that the brake light filament is not broken??
 
Thanks for the reply Dr. Frank,
I have done all the things you listed previous to my post,
Thats why I asked for some help I done it all I still have no brake Light, I checked the bulb it looks fine, And the brake light did operate before the ABSECTOMY, Not sure what else to try,
Thanks for the help,
Maybe someone else can chime in,
Thanks,
Mike M.
 
I had the same problem when I did mine last year, like you I looked at the brake light filament and thought it was good............ try a new bulb it only costs pennies :thumb
 
trainbuff57x said:
I checked the bulb it looks fine, And the brake light did operate before the ABSECTOMY, Not sure what else to try,
Click to expand...

Did you try it in another machine? or test it? I have seen a few that looked fine but must have had a hair line crack somewhere because they did not light

Mike just to verify that you unplugged the electronics and removed the ABS pipework and removed the whole unit from the bike separated the ABS mechanism from the electronics part and sealed up and secured and plugged the electronics part back into the bike loom You did not cut any wires

Once you switch on the ignition in neutral + Kill switch on everything should function as before

The "newer" method is ONLY to remove the Electronics box off the ABS unit and plug it back into the loom and to remove the relay and a bulb and of course to have re piped the brakes appropriately!

Do you have a working tail lamp and front marker lamp with the IGN on? If you haven't there's another cause, Check your rider info display is working maybe as simple as side stand down and bike in gear?

Also if nothing seems to solve it? Unplug the electronics box and make sure you have not bent a pin when re connecting?

I've done 12 or so of these and apart from the time required to do it, it is simple and straight forward

No other parts apart from a bit of something to seal the electronics box and mount it and possibly a short link pipe for the brakes, are required
 
Ok Guys,
Thanks for the replies,
Yes I have done all the remove, seal and secure all the things mentioned ,
I have only visually check the bulb, I am away for the weekend but as soon as I return Monday I will check/replace the bulb and take in from there,
I have taken out and separated the main loom plug and ABS Brain twice and inspected the pins , everything looks good,remomed the abs, relay and bulb from the warning triangle All the abs plumbing is removed, brakes and bike are operating better than ever just returned from a 2000miles ride around Lake Superior, Everything was Great except no Brake light,
I will check tomorrow and report back after checking the bulb further,
It is a Mystery to me , But THE BULB DOES SEEM TO BE HIGHLY SUSPECT
My Fault for not checking it further ,
Thanks All
Mike M.
 
it appears the bulb was defective, after trying another bulb I do have a brake light with the front lever but not with the back brake,
I haven't had time to dig into that new issue but I can hear a feel the back switch clicking when I push the pedal down,
Thanks for the ideas and help,
Mike M.
 
trainbuff57x said:
it appears the bulb was defective, after trying another bulb I do have a brake light with the front lever but not with the back brake,
I haven't had time to dig into that new issue but I can hear a feel the back switch clicking when I push the pedal down,
Thanks for the ideas and help,
Mike M.
Click to expand...

Bridge the connection on the loom side of the where the rear brake light plugs in... If the rear light then works the rear brake switch needs replacing.
 
Okay so there has been much talk of the "new" method, it has actually been around for quite a while!

I can claim no credit for this procedure and my apologies for schite photos it wasn't meant to be a process I just figured (when I was halfway through removing one for a mate) it was time folks stopped cutting their wiring looms and causing themselves grief

Why use it over the original first post ?? Okay whilst I did use that method a couple of times and it is fine it leaves a weak point in the wiring

Its "basically" the same process for any of the bikes with servo ABS the 1200 Hexhead bikes have no blue relay to "pull" and the GS has surface mount LED for warning lights so all you do is remove bulbs from the panels (or in the GS case paint the LED with black nail polish and/or the warning indicator cut out )

Its simple I snip the pipes with a decent pair of diagonal cutters Basically it seals the pipes and prevents fluid spillage as you lift the unit out

IMAG0820.jpg


the electronics plug is removed by extending the slide lock and lifting up Careful you need this to refit so don't break it! :rob

IMAG0818.jpg


IMAG0819.jpg


This is the bit that you need I cut the wires already I very much doubt anyone will ever have enough money to refit the ABS pump section and fear that they "might" wear through on components in the electronics You could fill the box with silicone and embed them Basically whatever floats your boat!

IMAG0822.jpg


IMAG0823.jpg


the are 4 connections from the electronics box and two from the ABS unit

IMAG0824.jpg


A standard UK front or rear number plate cut to length is almost perfect for sealing the electronics box up

IMAG0825.jpg
 
I tap the electronics box and use short M5 screws with a smear of sealant on the faces just prior to bolting up (Obviously try not to get swarf in the box!! and if you do? Just blow it clear

IMAG0826.jpg


two smaller bits of plate are also need to cover the side recesses and the white tape was just there to hold them in place whilst the sealer dried

IMAG0828.jpg


Then you plug it back into the loom and refit it to the bike Its probably not necessary but I use something to dampen vibrations in this case a small bit of closed cell packaging foam

IMAG0833.jpg


the two small wires are the brake fluid level connections and get a small smear of sealer to keep the water out and secured during the refit

IMAG0834.jpg


That is it apart from re-piping and bleeding the brakes as per normal "non-abs" bikes and removing the remaining bulb from the instrument panel and pulling the blue relay in the fuse box

IMAG0831.jpg


Good luck and Be sensible out there!!!

P.S. I usually fit much softer rear pads Sintered ones have very little "feel" with them when you move from Servo to standard braking again Ferodo Platinums have a decent "feel" after the servo is gone
 
Well, I cut the wires before I found this excellent thread. My 2002 R1150R has the constant brake light issue, switches are fine.
Everything else is fine with the brakes and relay wiring.
Any thoughts on fixes? Thanks!
 
Tundra Dweller said:
Well, I cut the wires before I found this excellent thread. My 2002 R1150R has the constant brake light issue, switches are fine.
Everything else is fine with the brakes and relay wiring.
Any thoughts on fixes? Thanks!
Click to expand...

Can you be a bit more informative .... Has this problem just appeared ? when/how long ago did you remove ther servo/abs ?

Were the lights working ok after you did the wiring/servo removal ?
Have you only just removed the servo and now have the problem ?
 
Steptoe said:
Can you be a bit more informative .... Has this problem just appeared ? when/how long ago did you remove ther servo/abs ?

Were the lights working ok after you did the wiring/servo removal ?
Have you only just removed the servo and now have the problem ?
Click to expand...

Yes the lights were working fine. I just removed the Servo connected the proper wires and relay and the brake lights are on constant. It's not the bulbs or switches.
 
No worries, I appreciate any help I can get!
I went through the wiring per the original post, checked it three times. The one thing I did find was two yellow with black stripe wires. Tried both with the same results. The other possible fault is the wrong brown ground wire. I will confirm it is a ground with a volt meter. I did connect Hyper-lite flashing LED brake light pods to the brake light wiring in the rear. These worked fine with the servo intact. I can just just dis-connect the posi-taps to test if that's the issue. I've seen a few posts of others having the same issue (brake lights always on) with using the Relay. I wonder if my 2002 R1150R needs a different wire combination?
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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