Simple, NO COST servo removal of 1150 IABS system

hutchy said:
I'm glad in a way that my abs went tits last Sunday whilst static and not on some eurojaunt.
Click to expand...

If it goes while on the road just refit the rear caliper hose direct to the rear master cylinder and turn the front splitter 180 degrees and fit the reservoir hose and lower brake hose into the same split, if you know what i mean.

Leaves all the warning lights flashing etc ( just reach up under the instrument panel and pull the two bulbs out :D ) but you'll have normal brakes and can continue your holiday.
 
Had a blast out today with 'normal brakes'

Now it could be in my mind but the difference in not having that lump of Junk under the tank has put a bit of a spring in the bikes proverbial step.

More than happy with the brakes,

Plenty powerful and great feedback.

Just need to get used to not hearing the whir of the servo which is a bit odd.

Very happy though

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
hutchy said:
Had a blast out today with 'normal brakes'

Now it could be in my mind but the difference in not having that lump of Junk under the tank has put a bit of a spring in the bikes proverbial step.

More than happy with the brakes,

Plenty powerful and great feedback.

Just need to get used to not hearing the whir of the servo which is a bit odd.

Very happy though

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I find the braking far nicer without the servo, greater feel and plenty strong enough even when loaded up.
 
Bike had its MOT today

2004, 1150gsa, 55k, servo and abs removed a few months ago by me.

In 2015 the front brake efficiency was 73% with servo fitted

Today, 08th June 2016 it's now 80%, direct brakes with braided hoses.

Rear brake improved by 3% also.

Seems to me the servo unit is not only prone to failure but also reduces brake efficency by a fairly large margin, best thing I did was removing that lump.

My brakes, in my opinion, are now excellant!





Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk
 
Flipfly said:
DO NOT cut the wires!!!!!

It's very simple to split the electrical box, disconnect it from the pump and put it all back together without disturbing the wiring!!

FFS why make it hard for yourself. doing it without cutting means your brake lights all work and someone can return it back to ABS if they are crazy enough to later on.

I did remove the pump and make a plate to seal the electrics in, but you can just screw it all back together and leave the wiring disconnected if you choose.

I'm struggling to work out the connectors on your's because the pic isn't brilliant, but they don't look quite right, probably replaced in the past with a different type to the standard ones (or maybe the pic is just bad. The connector is only there on the ADV tank and it is normally tucked away. If you had to wrench the tank off then it's likely you fecked the connector as the tank should slip off easily once these connectors (3 in all) are undone (along with the 2 breather pipes and the fuel gauge sender wiring block.

Make sure you have the back grommet thingy off the back of the rubber bush that the tank bolt sits through. If you don't you will crush the frame tangs when you tighten up the tank and that's baf form. The back of the rubber bush has fallen off every GS I've ever owned and tends to lodge somewhere really inconvenient or fecks off at 900mph across the garage floor and underneath an object which takes an hour to shift so that you can retrieve said silly round piece of shite rubber bastard :D

DO NOT CUT ANY WIRES!!!!!!

Sorry, but it was worth repeating :thumb
Click to expand...

Hi FlipFly. I appreciate this post is a bit old now and this is primarily a GS forum, just wondered if you knew if this no wire cutting method is possible with the unit on an R1150RT. I'm thinking about doing this and I've seen the various posts that are specific to the 1150rt which involve cutting off the big modular plug and using the redundant relay from the fuse box. But obviously if it was possible to retain the electronics from the servo/abs box to retain all the brake light functions etc. that would be great.

Cheers
David
 
Yes just repipe the bike and Remove big electronic bit off servo seal it up and plug it back in the loom

Remove the Blue relay (kills one bulb and stops the other flashing) and either tape over remaining lit lamp or remove it from instrument panel

Its a good idea to remove the front ABS ring and sensor (and sticker) Then it can no longer be proclaimed an ABS machine and require to have it working!


dsajones said:
Hi FlipFly. I appreciate this post is a bit old now and this is primarily a GS forum, just wondered if you knew if this no wire cutting method is possible with the unit on an R1150RT. I'm thinking about doing this and I've seen the various posts that are specific to the 1150rt which involve cutting off the big modular plug and using the redundant relay from the fuse box. But obviously if it was possible to retain the electronics from the servo/abs box to retain all the brake light functions etc. that would be great.

Cheers
David
Click to expand...
 
DrFarkoff said:
Yes just repipe the bike and Remove big electronic bit off servo seal it up and plug it back in the loom

Remove the Blue relay (kills one bulb and stops the other flashing) and either tape over remaining lit lamp or remove it from instrument panel

Its a good idea to remove the front ABS ring and sensor (and sticker) Then it can no longer be proclaimed an ABS machine and require to have it working!
Click to expand...

I removed my one but didn't take the ring off, it MOTd no problem but I mentioned it to the mechanic prior and he said that there would be no issues providing the brakes meet the requirements!
You could take the ABS ring off but you would probably have to fit washers of the same thickness so that the disc stays firm without rattling?
 
DrFarkoff said:
You Obviously don't have to deal with the bureaucracy of government run MOT centres!!!

Try getting an MPH only Speedo through test here!!!
Click to expand...

Bloody hell, I didn't realise things were so complicated there :eek:
 
Are your wires different color? Mine were

Just finished doing this to my 2003 GS and the brake lights were on all the time. Don't know how year to year differ but if you take a multi meter and do g the wires out, on my bike with abs and servo brakes, brake light switches made all time but I had to run 12 v through brake light switches and that is also power for relay. When brake on, power goes away and relay drops making the brake light come on. It's quite simple electronics. If you can't get to work, switch yellow w/black with yellow w/ green. Works now. And why not cut all of that shit out of there, you're never going to replace or repair. This works and is clean with no other lights to pull or crap to disassemble, plus a six pack fits in there with ice.
 
Grillman1001 said:
Just finished doing this to my 2003 GS and the brake lights were on all the time. Don't know how year to year differ but if you take a multi meter and do g the wires out, on my bike with abs and servo brakes, brake light switches made all time but I had to run 12 v through brake light switches and that is also power for relay. When brake on, power goes away and relay drops making the brake light come on. It's quite simple electronics. If you can't get to work, switch yellow w/black with yellow w/ green. Works now. And why not cut all of that shit out of there, you're never going to replace or repair. This works and is clean with no other lights to pull or crap to disassemble, plus a six pack fits in there with ice.
Click to expand...

Did you cut into loom to remove the servo and the brain or disconnect the servo from the brain and leave the Brain in place?

If you cut the loom then you did it the hard way.

As for the six pack, yep, it'll fit. but it'll take 10 minutes to take the tank off and access the six pack, plus the beer gets very warm under there.
 
I'm thinking that cutting a dozen or so wires and putting ends on half of them then some heat shrink and mounting the relay was about a 2 minute job. If I would of had a wiring schematic and traced my wires.prior to doing this it would of taken about 30 min total. But I didn't and had to dig a little deeper into it and physically ohm out wires and figure what was not correct with the instructions given on this thread. If had to do again it would be a 1-11/2 hour job. I can draw a schematic of the wiring if someone wants. It's very simple, but if you don't get wiring then do the easy way and only do half the job and have to rig other thinks up to make lights go out and use tape and pull bulbs. My way was the neatest and still can put back in if had to, except I melted it down for scrap. Should of done it the day warranty went off. The brakes are fucking unbelievable. Always thought they were great before, I was wrong.
 
Grillman1001 said:
I'm thinking that cutting a dozen or so wires and putting ends on half of them then some heat shrink and mounting the relay was about a 2 minute job. If I would of had a wiring schematic and traced my wires.prior to doing this it would of taken about 30 min total. But I didn't and had to dig a little deeper into it and physically ohm out wires and figure what was not correct with the instructions given on this thread. If had to do again it would be a 1-11/2 hour job. I can draw a schematic of the wiring if someone wants. It's very simple, but if you don't get wiring then do the easy way and only do half the job and have to rig other thinks up to make lights go out and use tape and pull bulbs. My way was the neatest and still can put back in if had to, except I melted it down for scrap. Should of done it the day warranty went off. The brakes are fucking unbelievable. Always thought they were great before, I was wrong.
Click to expand...

If you have it handy, can you just list which pins (or wire colour) do what? I've just removed mine. I connected up the electronic part but my brake light is staying on, so I assume the electronic part is where the problem was. If you have the wiring figured out, it will save me doing it. Thanks.
 
Better unplugging one switch at a time and see if you have one stuck open!
Edit WRONG! Switches on servo ABS are normally closed and when they open that is the signal for the electronics so you unplug a switch and bridge the contacts AFTER You have checked the levers are closing properly

The chances of it being the electric section are very slim

It used to happen the the tang on the rear switch got pushed out and the switch didn't close

Or the front brake lever fouled the handguard and didn't close again leaving the switch open and brake light on
 
DrFarkoff said:
It used to happen the the tang on the rear switch got pushed out and the switch didn't close

Or the front brake lever fouled the handguard and didn't close again leaving the switch open and brake light on
Click to expand...

Checked both of these, but they're not the problem. When the ABS light came on first, I checked that the brake light was coming on and going of when I activated a brake and it was operating fine. The brake light staying on only occurred after I removed the servo. It's possible I've dragged a wire somewhere. If I had the pinout, it would make looking for the problem a bit easier, rather than figuring it out myself.

DrFarkoff said:
Better unplugging one switch at a time and see if you have one stuck open!
Click to expand...

I'll try this now, but I don't think it's the problem
 
It's working now. I unplugged the rear brake switch and wondered why the taillight was off, then realised that I hadn't plugged the electronic bits back into the big connector. I connected the electronic bits and the brake light stayed off with both brake switches connected. It must have been a dodgy connection. I've a feeling that's all that was wrong with my servo because I opened it up and it was immaculate inside. Both motors spun up when I connected power to them. I'm not putting it back in now, though.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. :thumb

EDIT: Both brake warning lights are flashing now, alternately. Before, the lower one was on and the upper one was flashing at 4Hz.
 
Pull the blue relay in the fusebox that will leave one on but not flashing

Then you can reach up and pull the bulb or tape over it
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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