Snapped bolt
- Thread starter davegsx
- Start date
RIXTER
Registered user
stud
Can you see any of it or has it snapped off flush ?
Can you see any of it or has it snapped off flush ?
ducatiparts.110mb
Registered user
If you can get the engine protector off with the bolt still visible, then try mole grips.
If none of it is above the surface of teh surrounding metal than either drill it and use a stud extractor or else weld a nut to it and turn it out.
If neither of these are appropriate you may be able to get a hammer and punch to turn it. If the end isn't a particularly clean braek you may get enough purchase fo rthe punch to turn it bit by bit but its a bit long winded.
WD40 helps to reduce the effort in turning it out.
Mark
If none of it is above the surface of teh surrounding metal than either drill it and use a stud extractor or else weld a nut to it and turn it out.
If neither of these are appropriate you may be able to get a hammer and punch to turn it. If the end isn't a particularly clean braek you may get enough purchase fo rthe punch to turn it bit by bit but its a bit long winded.
WD40 helps to reduce the effort in turning it out.
Mark
Snapped bolts/screws..... removal a piece of pish!
Snapped bolts/screws with broken drill/stud extractors..... very difficult to remove.
Be careful!
Timpo.
Snapped bolts/screws with broken drill/stud extractors..... very difficult to remove.
Be careful!
Timpo.
roddy
Registered user
I find Plus Gas penetrating oil better than WD40, your local motor factors should have some,
If the stud is visible you can make a bucket shape round the remains of the stud use BlueTac or similar and put the Plus Gas in this and let it soak in overnight, then try remove the bust part, it'll help made your life easier
Also a bit of heat can help loosed the corrosion and draw in the loosening stuff.
This happened to me when I needed to turn the engine to centre the clutch. I didn't even bother to remove the stub but just used a cable tie to keep it tight. Mine is a potential keeper though and I do get bored easily....
This happened to me when I needed to turn the engine to centre the clutch. I didn't even bother to remove the stub but just used a cable tie to keep it tight. Mine is a potential keeper though and I do get bored easily....
Any one got any ideas on how to remove a snapped off bolt? it is the one that holds the front of the plastic engine protector on.
Thanks.
Don't worry about it - The two bolts left holding the plastic guard are enough to keep it in place.
No, it as snapped off flush, as soon as the locks and door defrost to the bike safe i will give it a go with the drill ,
roddy
Registered user
drill slips an you've just put a hole through your front engine cover,it's surprising hard to drill bolts out unless you have a bench drill or superbly steady strong hand, especially at the drill sizes you'll be using (about 3 or 4 mm)
I've found out the hard way by damaging things, to drill a bolt out you want to be able to take the engine cover off and secure it so a bench drill can be used you'll also want to be able to flatten the broken end of the bolt and mark it so the drill won't skip off it.
There maybe easier ways to drill a bolt but from my experience this is the only way I've been able to do it without causing more damage to the surrounding area
If it's a clean break I'd go with Steptoes suggestion and leave well alone or get a local engineering firm to do it for you, I wouldn't imagine they'd charge much if you took the cover in
Pauly S
Registered user
A wish
I wish someone would make a left hand drill bit, dead handy to remove broken studs, try and drill it out, and when the drill snares it will prob undo the broken stud by winding it out backwards with the aid of some heat and plus gas.
Now theres a good idea..
I wish someone would make a left hand drill bit, dead handy to remove broken studs, try and drill it out, and when the drill snares it will prob undo the broken stud by winding it out backwards with the aid of some heat and plus gas.
Now theres a good idea..
They do...
Dave Do as he says Leave it Be Seriously there is very little material there and one cock up could leave you with a holed front cover
If you want a pic of the back of an engine cover I'll lift a spare one I have and photo it for you
If you can see any of the bolt then these are the fellas
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0000CCXVZ/ref=asc_df_B0000CCXVZ1556594?smid=A3A2JHTJ3DM1IW&tag=googlecouk06-21&linkCode=asn&creative=22218&creativeASIN=B0000CCXVZ
You can get them down to very small sizes too.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0000CCXVZ/ref=asc_df_B0000CCXVZ1556594?smid=A3A2JHTJ3DM1IW&tag=googlecouk06-21&linkCode=asn&creative=22218&creativeASIN=B0000CCXVZ
You can get them down to very small sizes too.
drill it, what size was the bolt?m5 m6 etc? when knwo the size then you can get the correct drill. just put a centre punch in it, drill a tiny hole and keep working up the size.
when you know the bolt size you can find out the dia of the shank of the bolt. this will mean you can drill the entire bolt out and all leave behind is the threads which will pop out with a quick tap to clean it up.
if you know the lenght this is also helpfull as will save you drilling too far
easy job to do it it is pain in the arse a you can get very worried and worked up over it as you think will damage engine case
when you know the bolt size you can find out the dia of the shank of the bolt. this will mean you can drill the entire bolt out and all leave behind is the threads which will pop out with a quick tap to clean it up.
if you know the lenght this is also helpfull as will save you drilling too far
easy job to do it it is pain in the arse a you can get very worried and worked up over it as you think will damage engine case
Be VERY gentle with this you can pop the moulded spud off and into the case behind! then it's telelever off to and the rest of the gubbins to change the cover!
You Can Take it from 2 guys who usually have to sort this stuff If it ain;t botherin you in this instance " Leave it alone!"
I can lend you a left handed screw driver if any help in the future.
Pauly S
Registered user
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Gowler-Tools/_i.html?_nkw=left+hand&_sid=532671445
http://toolstoday.co.uk/shop.php?sec=cat&cat=1945
On machinery, I've always found the best way is normally by welding, like this http://www.markthewelder.co.uk/id69.html
although I wouldn't do it on a GS cause of all the electronics.
As an apprentice, I was told that the way WD40 works is that while you're waiting on it to penetrate, you think of a better way of doing the job. I agree with that to this day
I'd say left hand drills are a good bet. Drilling / stud extractors is a last resort, it's very difficult to drill on centre with a hand held drill. The parallel type extractors are the best, the taper ones just expand the broken bit in the hole. Remember it sheared off cause it's siezed in the casing.
I've had success with drilling then machining it out with milling type tool on a dremel then running a tap down the hole.
From memory, these bolts are m5. I'd be tempted to just leave it, it's only a cover, three bolts will be fine.
You could always silicone the head of the 4th bolt in the cover to make it look pukka, that's what they'd do if they sheared it off at the dealers anyway, isn't it...
http://toolstoday.co.uk/shop.php?sec=cat&cat=1945
On machinery, I've always found the best way is normally by welding, like this http://www.markthewelder.co.uk/id69.html
although I wouldn't do it on a GS cause of all the electronics.
As an apprentice, I was told that the way WD40 works is that while you're waiting on it to penetrate, you think of a better way of doing the job. I agree with that to this day
I'd say left hand drills are a good bet. Drilling / stud extractors is a last resort, it's very difficult to drill on centre with a hand held drill. The parallel type extractors are the best, the taper ones just expand the broken bit in the hole. Remember it sheared off cause it's siezed in the casing.
I've had success with drilling then machining it out with milling type tool on a dremel then running a tap down the hole.
From memory, these bolts are m5. I'd be tempted to just leave it, it's only a cover, three bolts will be fine.
You could always silicone the head of the 4th bolt in the cover to make it look pukka, that's what they'd do if they sheared it off at the dealers anyway, isn't it...
Pauly S
Registered user
well done craig, top man
off to ebay we go.http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Gowler-Tools/_i.html?_nkw=left+hand&_sid=532671445
http://toolstoday.co.uk/shop.php?sec=cat&cat=1945
On machinery, I've always found the best way is normally by welding, like this http://www.markthewelder.co.uk/id69.html
although I wouldn't do it on a GS cause of all the electronics.
As an apprentice, I was told that the way WD40 works is that while you're waiting on it to penetrate, you think of a better way of doing the job. I agree with that to this day
I'd say left hand drills are a good bet. Drilling / stud extractors is a last resort, it's very difficult to drill on centre with a hand held drill. The parallel type extractors are the best, the taper ones just expand the broken bit in the hole. Remember it sheared off cause it's siezed in the casing.
I've had success with drilling then machining it out with milling type tool on a dremel then running a tap down the hole.
From memory, these bolts are m5. I'd be tempted to just leave it, it's only a cover, three bolts will be fine.
You could always silicone the head of the 4th bolt in the cover to make it look pukka, that's what they'd do if they sheared it off at the dealers anyway, isn't it...
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