After reaching Zagora I headed North towards Mara. About 50 mile before it the rear tube blew. This was my fault, a really stupid mistake that I was going to regret big time. After all the sand I'd forgot to pump them back up and was running 15PSI on the road. I'd been told before I set off the rims on the 650 are grooved to stop the tyre rotating. Oh well.
I stopped and did the old removal of the rear wheel which by now I had down to a fine art. The effort from the previous days struggle was showing and I wasn't really thinking straight. I stuck in the spare 21" as this will "get you home" and gingerly road it to Mara.
But I didn't. 10 mile later this tube blew. I stopped by the side of the road again and tried to patch the original tube. It made another 100 metre then blew again. For the third time that day I removed the back wheel, cursing that I'd been so stupid and secondly for not carrying a rear tube, going on bad advice that a 21" will cover a 17" rear.
I got lucky this time and made it another 3 mile or so before it blew again. The split in the tube kept expanding and I didn't have large patches left. I'd repaired the split near the valve and that was holding up. I stopped at a small cafe on a mountain pass where they served delicious orange juice squeezed in front of you. It almost made it worth it.
This time with some help and a mechanic the tube had a much better repair (he took itin his car somewhere). While I waited two British bikers passed and turned round to see if everything was alright - they'd spotted my plate on a tired bike. First thing the first one said was "you alright, 'cause you don't look it!" They were stopping at the first place down the road. After getting the bike back together I head off and found there bikes about 30mile outside of Mara. I stopped here and stayed the night. It give me an opportunity to sort my kit out a little as I was in a bit of a knackered state.
I had bowl movements during the night. They started as simple diarrhoea and what I thought would have been a night of recovery wasn't.
I left really early the next morning as I felt a bit sick. I just wanted to get back home now as everything had fell apart. I went straight past Mara, but only after I tried finding a garage or anything that had a 18" tube. No such luck, but Casa would have one of course. So on the motorway I went to Casa.
The fun started just before a service station. The rear tube blew and took several attempts before it would stay up after getting the tyre back on the rim. I set off not knowing what to expect but Casa wasn't too far. If I kept the speed down I'd coax the thing there.
I didn't get very far. Actually I had 50 mile or so to Ben Hir or whatever it's called. I road the bike on the hard shoulder all the way there at 10mph at 35degree heat with it snaking all over, destroying the rear tyre and obliterating the tube. The reason for this was two people had said getting a new tube (and then the tyre!) at Ben Hir would be no problem. One guy offered me a lift to Casa by putting the bike in the back of his lorry. Fatally I didn't take this offer as I only had 2 mile to Ben Hir and I trusted this place would be able to help. When I got there there was nothing of the sort. The town was a shit hole. Somewhere in the middle of it all a backstreet mechanic in a rusty market place was taking the wheel of my bike. I was surrounded by a mob and they all wanted cash. One promised he knew someone that would have a tube back at Mara. I believed the tyre, though truly ****ed, would stand up to a little more abuse.
I left the bike expecting to come back to it with all my stuff nicked. Actually this never happened and I reckon I looked so utterly gritted they didn't want to chance it. I needed a van other than the one the mob had proposed because it wasn't cheap. I found one and after haggling it down to 45 quid I had the bike put in it and we drove down to Mara.
Naturally, the guy was fresh out of 17 or 18 tubes. He did have ones for the mopeds they all drive. The van man was getting annoyed but I'd only paid him part of the cash. Until he found me a solution as promised like **** was he getting the other half.
The solution came as part of a shagged 18" wheel. I took the tube out and, well, words can't describe how ****ed this tube was. One of the patches was made from another inner tube and was 3 by 4 inches in size. You can imagine how I felt. The guy was demanding a tenner for it. Supply and demand. Without it I was ****ed. With it I was probably still ****ed. The mechanic kept pointing out that the tube was sticking out of the tyre wall in three places. Yes I can see that you dumb **** I wanted to say.
However it did seem to work and after another hour I was back on the same bloody motorway to Casa. All was going well. I had nicked a load of large patches from the **** that sold me the shagged 18" and made it past the same service station. The tyre subsequently blew just before a bridge about a mile later.
This time I felt like crying. I was in a right state. I wanted normality. Why didn't I pump the tyre back up. It all seems logical now, but looking back at how exhausted I was it seems reasonable.
I haven't come back to the bowl movement yet. This had turned into the usual nasty African spell and I was shitting everything I drank about 5 mins after it's consumption. I'd not eaten a thing that day as my appetite had gone. I tried drinking lots of water but it was flushed out soon after. I still had control of my bladder but when I needed to go I really needed to go.
Now I'm not a believer, but there no other explanation for why a recovery truck passing on its way to Casa was so suddenly in my rear view mirrors. Oh thank you lord!!!
It was around 6PM. The driver and his two mates told me they intended to pull in at ... Ben Hir ... and get some rest. What they were actually wanted was payment and lots of it. Suddenly the friendly passing by had turned into the usual shafting supply and demand Arab. My words were to the point. "Go **** yourself." and I think he understood. He presented a really small bill after I began balling my hand into a fist.
The bike was removed from the truck at this same place, e.g I'd made zero progress in a day, and in the dark using a head torch I removed the rear wheel not knowing if I was due a kicking at this shit hole. Passers by said I needed to move asap, but I couldn't. I felt really vulnerable. There was a bar nearby and it was about 10.30hrs. I switched the head torch to red. I thought this might warn people off...
The same mechanic kid that had my wheel earlier in the day came upon me with his mates. I chatted as I went about the fix, they were 16 yrs old and had gleaming 50cc mopeds that they cherished. The mild steel had been polished like chrome. God help them if it should rain! The mechanic, rightly, had deep reservations about the tyre wall. He found an old 18" tyre (no tube) but I explained this was 17" and so it wouldn't work. The companionship was relaxing as my nerves were on edge. It's all good what a little friendly chatting between strangers can do.
I spent two hours regluing the huge patch on the shagged 18" tube I'd bought previously then using large patches to enforce the tyre wall. I hoped to stop the tube bulging through and popping. At 00.30hrs I left the side of the road on the non-motorway route to Casa.