solid paralever bearings

[motobiker]

There's far too many people having problems with these bushes to discount that one as a one off.

Have you had first hand experience of them?

He manufactures them.

 

[dancata]

There's far too many people having problems with these bushes to discount that one as a one off.

Have you had first hand experience of them?

Yes and not a problem so far. Install them correct and everything works OK.

 

[dancata]

From looking at your pictures it seems that the outer edge of the bush was bigger than that of the hardened outer shell.
When tightened up the bearing would be trapped on the edge of the outer shell, preventing it from turning with the shaft. This would also prevent the sliding face from being adjusted correctly with the outer shell and give the wear shown. Maybe if it had be produced correctly, it would have been Ok?.

Wrong. The ones in the pic are from over the ocean. The outer race is 8 mm thick and the bronze bushing is 10 mm thick. That's a problem. You can see that one bushing is worn evenly/not worn and the other one not.

The worn bushing is on the L/H side as you ride the bike and has got to that point because of poor adjusting it. You have to screw the pivot all the way in and then back off a little. Personnally, I adjust it by feel of the FD as it does not have the lower arm fitted. Adjusting it by the torque wrench is wrong!

Mine are 10 mm thick, the bronze and the outer race. There has never been any problem so far.



Dan.

 

[Rob Farmer]

So yours aren't the same as the rubberChicken ones? Have you got a link to them..always nice to have the full picture on these issues.

 

[dancata]

Not like them. They use a TIMKEN outer race, that's 8 mm thick. Mine is 10 mm like the bronze bushing.

I don't have pics but will take some and post them.

All I have is this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kli-Uk_r2GU&feature=player_embedded

Dan.

 

[Pekkavee]

Maybe I have to change the original bearings too, to be sure.
Are they some standard bearing from SKF or some other.
Or is it best to buy them from BMW dealer?
R1100GS, 130.000 km. No problems with them though.

Pekka

 

[dancata]

Maybe I have to change the original bearings too, to be sure.
Are they some standard bearing from SKF or some other.
Or is it best to buy them from BMW dealer?
R1100GS, 130.000 km. No problems with them though.

Pekka

If there's no play in the rear wheel, there's no point in changing the bearings. Just lube them every winter, along with the splines

As for the bearings, there are only 2 places I know where to buy from: motorworks and the dealer.

Dan

 

[Pekkavee]

If there's no play in the rear wheel, there's no point in changing the bearings. Just lube them every winter, along with the splines

As for the bearings, there are only 2 places I know where to buy from: motorworks and the dealer.

Dan

OK, thank you. You saved my time and money for changing them in vain.

Pekka

 

[Uncle Crumpet]

This is the problem. Reading the internet.
I'd want to know how the person has treated their original bearings before they start singing the praises of something different.
Especially americans, my how they love to use something different just for the sake of it and let everyone know how they've customised and re-engineered their bikes . .

yep, you could all learn a bit from us Ozzies, there aint nuthin cant be fixed with a bit of fencing wire, a pair of thongs and a blue singlet.

 

[Wrigsby1]

OK, thank you. You saved my time and money for changing them in vain.

Pekka

Just give them a quick check for getting notchy... It may be mistaken for poor function of the rear shock. Just remove rear wheel and parrallel bar and move the bevel through it's axis. If its really notchy then you can replace them. If not then don't....

 

[dancata]

Just give them a quick check for getting notchy... It may be mistaken for poor function of the rear shock. Just remove rear wheel and parrallel bar and move the bevel through it's axis. If its really notchy then you can replace them. If not then don't....

I think shakeing the rear wheel when installed should do. You have more leverage there (9-3 and 12-6)

Dan.

 

[Wrigsby1]

I think shakeing the rear wheel when installed should do. You have more leverage there (9-3 and 12-6)

Dan.

Sometimes there is no discernable play but the bearings are notchy. I have had this on a K as well and it's such an easy check and is easier to work out if it's the pivots or not. Also goes with the "creak" sometimes heard and slows the response of the shock. Well worth a check and a bit like checking head bearings with the front wheel off....



Your bronze bushes wouldn't feel notchy.

 

[dancata]

Sometimes there is no discernable play but the bearings are notchy.

Like if the bearings would have play and already wend bad and the owner tightens them some more

 

[rockman]

I tried the rubber chicken bushes on a 1150GS I had a while back. Looked the part when I fitted them, but the pivot pin broke off on one side a while later ( a few 1000 kms). I'm not sure if it was the bush too tight on the pin or what, but it happened. Didnt impress the bloke I just sold the bike to either ... he was half way home when it happened. I think i'd stick to the originals and grease them occasionally.