Some dissassembly help

[john_aero]

ok here we go

plastic alt cover is off, great, can i rmove the alu casing behind it as well with out causing any issues? i know gasket may have be replaced but live with that.

spark plugs, seem be unreal tight to get the plug cap off, is there a trick to this

want to tidy up brake and clutch lines, is there any info on bleeding clutch? brakes i have done on bikes but clutch is new to me

i would like drain both brake and clutch but i know make bleeding very difficult.


alternator belt is 14k, but 11year old. i am debating changing it but not sur eif will. any input

 

[Timolgra]

Lever each side of the plug cap.
Fit a brake bleed nipple to the clutch bleeder it's much simpler, same as your front brake nipple.

 

[Ash]

Why do you want front cover off.
change belt,10 min job and keep old one on bike as a spare.

 

[john_aero]

ok cheers for plug removal and nipple tip

gotta really read the manual and find the clutch unit 1st hahaha

have bike stripped down. lot of paint corrosion, seizd bolt and even seizd SS bolts that have gotten some very heavy alu corrosion. when take them out the brought lot white powder.

if sold it as cocaine id be loaded

just want to take it off so i can paint it up and reduce making as easier work with it on bench

going mask whole bike up and re pait from gear box forward as much as i can.mask up all the line and parts

thinking fo using nitomorus to remove the paint and dremel with scotchbrite on it

 

[sockpuppet]

Clutch bleed point is under the seat area on the RHS of the bike. Will be a neoprene tube around a pipe and it'll be ziptied to a bit of body work.

 

[Ash]

i did my 1100/1150 in situ [same as below]
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=208150&highlight=front+cover+paint
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=250976&highlight=front+cover+paint

 

[john_aero]

cheers lads.

great help.

 

[john_aero]

i did my 1100/1150 in situ [same as below]
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=208150&highlight=front+cover+paint
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=250976&highlight=front+cover+paint

main reason for doing it is fact only few bolts and want minimised time laying on floor trying get paint off

 

[(RIP) Mark H]

John

Heres a link to a job I did on a 1200 front cover (The method will be the same) It explains the advantages of working with cover insitu

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=136102

 

[john_aero]

just read, may have to do lot dissassembly

feck. will have think it over

now heres a stupid question, what is a hall sensor? never heard of one until got the 1150 and what are symptons of one going? just so i know for information

 

[john_aero]

John

Heres a link to a job I did on a 1200 front cover (The method will be the same) It explains the advantages of working with cover insitu

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=136102

cheers was readign that hahaha. cant see pics as blocked in work.

but o just going use hammerite smootha s it swhat have on the shelf at momeny

looks like it will be staying on as dont feel linke having fettle with crakcs etc this weekend.

going replace all the SS bolts as were nto fitted with copper grease so have brough lot of powdery residue out with them, save hase started eating away at the aluminium.

have a new SS kit that going fit so will clean threads with an airgun before hand get all the crap out

reason wanted take bits off to paint was to allow an even break line so in future diss mantle when taken apart wont chip an pull the paint off

 

[(RIP) Mark H]

Re "Hall effect senors" Think of them as an electronic set of points, they sit behind the cover you plan to paint, Usually they either work or they don't, and when they don't your engine stops, They are fairly straight forward to change and can be such a show stopper if failed that some people carry a spare for long trips, I say "They" cos theres 2 of them (One for each cylinder)
Google is your friend if you want to find out more, Heres a link to be going on with;

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_effect_sensor

Stainless bolts into Alloy create a dissimiler metals reaction "Alumslip" helps prevent it.

 

[john_aero]

Re "Hall effect senors" Think of them as an electronic set of points, they sit behind the cover you plan to paint, Usually they either work or they don't, and when they don't your engine stops, They are fairly straight forward to change and can be such a show stopper if failed that some people carry a spare for long trips, I say "They" cos theres 2 of them (One for each cylinder)
Google is your friend if you want to find out more, Heres a link to be going on with;

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_effect_sensor

Stainless bolts into Alloy create a dissimiler metals reaction "Alumslip" helps prevent it.

ah just simple timing sensor so. was wondering taught was some fancy german part.

well ya was curious as had heard few people say theirs had gone

well i have load copper grease so will coat all the new SS parts with it

dont understand why people would fit an dear SS kit and not lube them up. common knowledge that alu is very prone metal to metal corrosion

 

[MikeP]

dont understand why people would fit an dear SS kit and not lube them up. common knowledge that alu is very prone metal to metal corrosion

Probably because some people erroneously think that stainless means corrosion-free when stainless to aluminium actually creates more problems than mild steel does.

Coppaslip will do but I too prefer Alumslip, it seems to be more heat resistant than Coppaslip and Alu-slip, which only comes in aerosol cans, is specially formulated for high temperature applications. Neither are particularly cheap but one can should last the average DIY bodger a life-time.

 

[john_aero]

what i found was tub of stuff from halfords

either way better than sticking it in with nothing other than ky gelly which least would helped get them out again

cyld head guards on right side were seized took 2 hours with head gun and half can of tri flow. which must say, triflow in black can has be best stuff ever, would lube up anything and free up any tight holes you may wish to get access to

 

[john_aero]

also, any advice ebfore remove rocker covers, anything should replce like seals or are the re usable?

i am ordering few bits today so want make sure have everything in it and not paying more postage again next week

 

[Packer]

lot of paint corrosion, seizd bolt and even seizd SS bolts that have gotten some very heavy alu corrosion. when take them out the brought lot white powder.

This is a problem with SS fasteners, ionic action attacks the alloy and produces ersatz coke. When you re-assemble be sure to use Alu-Slip (not Copper-Slip) and reduce the torque settings 25%. It will still be clamping just as hard but the bolts turn easier so need less force.

No gasket behind the cover, just auto silicone sealer. Drain the oil first. Check the oil seal and maybe replace.

 

[MattW]

also, any advice ebfore remove rocker covers, anything should replce like seals or are the re usable?

i am ordering few bits today so want make sure have everything in it and not paying more postage again next week

There are two seals on each rocker cover - the big one which goes round the edge of the cover and a smaller one which seals the spark plug tunnel (shown in this thread: http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81408) . Both are reusable as long as they aren't damaged.

With regards to your powdery fasteners, I use duralac zinc chromate paste specially designed for jointing dissimilar metals. It's recommended for attaching stainless fittings to alloy masts on boats etc - about as harsh an environment as you can get. Fairly pricey but goes a long way.

 

[john_aero]

thats for that lads.

so leave the copper grease out. gotta go try find something else so as hope re asseble next week.

will price up the seals anway as if they very cheap may get them just to have as spares.

that or may wait till monday to order them

 

[MattW]

thats for that lads.

so leave the copper grease out. gotta go try find something else so as hope re asseble next week.

will price up the seals anway as if they very cheap may get them just to have as spares.

that or may wait till monday to order them

A lot have people have used copper slip for years and not had any problems (me included). I only switched to Duralac when I saw a tube and bought it on impulse (but it is good). If copper slip is what you have, I'd use it (but forget torque settings - percentage allowances are guesswork - I'd do it by feel).

I must admit, I bought a couple of spare seals for my rocker covers when I changed a head gasket - still got them in a box in the garage but handy 'just in case'