Sorry! Another fuel pump question

[Northern Monkey]

Yesterday after a lovely ride back through the lakes the bike just died and rolled to a stop.

Initial diagnosis is fuel pump as it no longer whirrs when ignition is on .

Before I buy a fresh one what else should I test/check beforehand?

Fuse is fine , relay swapped with horn relay and still nothing.

The connector block to the tank is clean - no corrosion.

If someone can advise which wires to test for what at the connector with a multimeter that would help too

Many thanks


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[DrFarkoff]

Using a Bulb NOT an LED test lamp

test between the Power wire, the bigger Green and white Wire*** and Brown ground, If it lights up when you switch on? Get the tank off and get the pump flange out

LED will light with very little voltage, which gives you a false reading, Incandescent helps find breaks corrosion at junctions etc as it requires more power And if you have a Power probe you can do likewise with the cables on the tank Neg to Brown and power to (green white*** ) On the tank connector that will make the pump whine

*** I Need to double check but it is the 2 thicker wires on the plug Brown is ALWAYS ground on a Beemer

Greens are Ignition live circuits

I use an old car tyre to protect the tank

Drain off as much fuel as you can and set it in the tyre which I cover with and old towel

clean the ends of the threads on the flange bolts with a wire brush or dremel or drill and rotary brush but get them as clean as you can and lash a drop of loose oil on them

Use an 8mm to gently break them free and then wind them off

Likely you will need a new O ring for the pump flange to tank

I suspect that you will find that the U bend may have split or a clamp slid off or the pump has just gave up the ghost

There is an after market Audi one that will fit with just a few adaptions

 

[Northern Monkey]

As always , very thorough , thanks again. Will keep you posted


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[DrFarkoff]

While you are at it Think very seriously about changing the male ends on the pipework!

I have been hearing of more issues with them this last while

The new BMW one with the part number ending 0800 is metal and is a forever fix and comes with a new O ring

and if you have a GSA change the crossover too

The one I was playing with here last week shattered when I went to change it !

 

[Northern Monkey]

Yes it’s a gsa but I’ve no idea what you’re referring to! I’ll root out the Haynes for some pictures


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[DrFarkoff]

Yes it’s a gsa but I’ve no idea what you’re referring to! I’ll root out the Haynes for some pictures

The male fuel line quick release couplings

They break at the groove near the big hex nut

If they break there there is no valve anymore and fuel just pisses out

13537700800 8mm Straight quick release male or as BM describe it 180 degree

16117666735 6mm 90 degree crossover pipe quick release male

Pump Flange O ring to tank 16141341008

Filler Cap to Tank O ring 07119900019

O rings swell when you take them off from the tank for some reason

 

[Northern Monkey]

Many thanks , t’was the pump , new one ordered with all the necessary bits , cheers


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[19200]

Fuel Plate

After doing some reading, I'm going to post this here as it seems most logical:

How flat should the fuel plate be? Mine has a bit of a bend near one of the edges, but appears that the tank has a corresponding distortion.
O ring is visibly aged and was leaking. New one enroute. Just wondering how much "wave" the fuel sender plate might have?

Thanks!

 

[Steptoe]

After doing some reading, I'm going to post this here as it seems most logical:

How flat should the fuel plate be? Mine has a bit of a bend near one of the edges, but appears that the tank has a corresponding distortion.
O ring is visibly aged and was leaking. New one enroute. Just wondering how much "wave" the fuel sender plate might have?

Thanks!

The face is flat, but the edge does have a short raised section which aligns with a similar shape on the tank so you can line up the fuel pump plate in the correct position.