(sorry oil question) - 5w30 suitable?

[tuonov]

Hi,
I’ve checked all the threads and have an understanding, but as they say two heads better than one, hopefully this is a quick oil question that won’t clog the forum or cause an oil fight

I ordered 10w40 oil for my 2011 GS Adventure, the shop sent me the wrong one - 5w30 car oil. I didn’t realise until already poured into my bike. (Never rush to do a job).

I’ll be at the ABR festival next week with talks of heat wave and temps of around or just under 30 degrees.

5w30 says it’s good for 35 degrees - so you guys think there’s any issues running this, or think that it just isn’t worth the risk at the higher temps?

I won’t be hammering my bike, but might be doing slower speed stuff, and planning to ride the trails, so all relatively slow speed stuff, albeit without it higher speed cooling the engine

 

[Smiffypr]

I wouldn't put in anything less than 15W-50.
My 2004 handbook says XXW-30 is only okay for up to 10C ambient.
Personally I would drain that -30 out immediately and put 15W-50 m/c specific oil in.
-50 might cost you a fraction of a percent on MPG, but it will protect your engine.

 

[Santa-2512]

Agreed, they dont t like low upper weight oil,

Run it for 1k and treat it like a flush

 

[wessie]

if it is car oil without the MA2 spec then it needs to come out regardless of the viscosity (unless the hexhead still had a dry clutch)

 

[MWH]

I'd consider 30w a bit low, I've used 10/40 before and in the heat of 35 to 40 degrees it was definitely a bit louder/rattlier. Engine didn't go bang so it worked. That was at touring speeds in France, I'd imagine in traffic it would've been worse.

I'd drain it and chuck in some 10/50 or 20/50 for peace of mind.

 

[tuonov]

Thanks everyone, the feedback was taken on board, I’ve just drained it, and put in some of castrol’s finest 10w40 (on offer at £28 with a Halfords trade card at the moment).
I’ve gone for 10w40 rather than a 50 only as my normal mechanic who’s serviced it (and was a bmw tech before going solo) recommends it, but I will look into the thicker 50 type oils for next time.

As for the 5w30 bottle of Mobil1 that I drained - I’ve drained it back into its bottle, using a clean pan, and considering throwing that into the car, which is due a service and takes 5w30. It’s been ran in the bike for about 10 minutes on idle. So maybe not a complete waste of money, though still really disappointed in the well known oil supplier that send the wrong oil, and disappointed in myself for not checking

 

[tuonov]

if it is car oil without the MA2 spec then it needs to come out regardless of the viscosity (unless the hexhead still had a dry clutch)

It’s the hexhead, but either way I’ve drained for peace of mind

 

[Smiffypr]

I'd consider 30w a bit low, I've used 10/40 before and in the heat of 35 to 40 degrees it was definitely a bit louder/rattlier. Engine didn't go bang so it worked. That was at touring speeds in France, I'd imagine in traffic it would've been worse.

I'd drain it and chuck in some 10/50 or 20/50 for peace of mind.

Each metal to metal contact that makes up a rattle, is doing a tiny little bit of damage. It all adds up. Workshops might use 10W-40 because that's what they have a 50 gallon drum of, doesn't mean that it's the best choice for your engine.

 

[Slipperyeel]

Thanks everyone, the feedback was taken on board, I’ve just drained it, and put in some of castrol’s finest 10w40 (on offer at £28 with a Halfords trade card at the moment).
I’ve gone for 10w40 rather than a 50 only as my normal mechanic who’s serviced it (and was a bmw tech before going solo) recommends it, but I will look into the thicker 50 type oils for next time.

As for the 5w30 bottle of Mobil1 that I drained - I’ve drained it back into its bottle, using a clean pan, and considering throwing that into the car, which is due a service and takes 5w30. It’s been ran in the bike for about 10 minutes on idle. So maybe not a complete waste of money, though still really disappointed in the well known oil supplier that send the wrong oil, and disappointed in myself for not checking

I'm thinking you missed some of the nuance. 10/50 is a minimum. But especially with your heatwave, your gonna be wanting the 20/50...

That 10/40 is, err...noisy!

Sent from my SM-S908B using Tapatalk

 

[botus]

if it is car oil without the MA2 spec then it needs to come out regardless of the viscosity (unless the hexhead still had a dry clutch)

its not really the clutch that matters - put car oil in a normal bike (wet clutch and integral gearbox), it will just slip a small bit under max attack, swap the oil to bike stuff and it'll be fine.... but a bike gearbox creates massive shear forces that cuts crappy car oil up like a pair of scissors and all the molecules that lubricate things are mashed up (and in the end the box and other bits of the engine will be properly damaged) - you'll get 500 miles and then the gear change will start to get nasty as car oil gives up

 

[Santa-2512]

Thanks everyone, the feedback was taken on board, I’ve just drained it, and put in some of castrol’s finest 10w40 (on offer at £28 with a Halfords trade card at the moment).
I’ve gone for 10w40 rather than a 50 only as my normal mechanic who’s serviced it (and was a bmw tech before going solo) recommends it, but I will look into the thicker 50 type oils for next time.

As for the 5w30 bottle of Mobil1 that I drained - I’ve drained it back into its bottle, using a clean pan, and considering throwing that into the car, which is due a service and takes 5w30. It’s been ran in the bike for about 10 minutes on idle. So maybe not a complete waste of money, though still really disappointed in the well known oil supplier that send the wrong oil, and disappointed in myself for not checking

Go 20/50,

Here's my hexhead on 10W/40 cold

And hot

Thats 10W/40 in 26C after a 7 mile run


Cummins diesel seems more appropriate

It was like piss when we drained it

 

[MWH]

Each metal to metal contact that makes up a rattle, is doing a tiny little bit of damage. It all adds up. Workshops might use 10W-40 because that's what they have a 50 gallon drum of, doesn't mean that it's the best choice for your engine.

Never said it was? I said a 50 would be better.

 

[Phutto69]

10w 40 is fine it’s in the owners manual.

 

[TLSgazza]

10w 40 is fine it’s in the owners manual.

Ah but....
Wheni bought my GSA in 2008 the BMW recommended oil was 20/50 mineral oil.
A few years later the recommended oil was Castrol power 1.
A few years later the recommended oil was 15/50.
If BMW can't make their minds up what chance have we got.

Btw I used 15/50 fully synthetic now.

 

[Santa-2512]

10w 40 is fine it’s in the owners manual.

So is 10w/50

The diffrence is 10w/50 doesnt sound like a cummins diesel at 26c

 

[Santa-2512]

Ah but....
Wheni bought my GSA in 2008 the BMW recommended oil was 20/50 mineral oil.
A few years later the recommended oil was Castrol power 1.
A few years later the recommended oil was 15/50.
If BMW can't make their minds up what chance have we got.

Btw I used 15/50 fully synthetic now.

The single cam hexheads did use mineral oil

The TC hexheads use semi synth oil

The brand is immaterial, its the viscositys & specs that important

Things change, its how things go

 

[botus]

when I first had mine BM put in 10 40.... it rattles like hell
in 2012 BM did a global deal with Castrol and they moved everyone to only two recco specs for the bikes

basically the four pot ones should get - BMW Motorrad 4T Racing SAE 5W-40 - API SL/JASO MA2
the twin pot tractors should get - BMW Motorrad High Performance SAE 15W-50 - API SJ/JASO MA2

as the UK lemmings are meant to fly in the dark, comms are hard to find - whereas USA inform people

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2013/MC-10150157-9999.pdf

yes early tractors needed the crap quality of mineral oil to allow all the swarf and machine marks to wear off - but that happened 10 years ago - now for those that have any clue how things work, you can look after what's left of your engine running synthetic 15 50 - just remember cold starts are meant to be a gentle affair where you are allowing the oil to get to 80C before you rip it ! and in the winter its going to be another 3 miles of gentle riding before that happens

 

[Ross63]

its not really the clutch that matters - put car oil in a normal bike (wet clutch and integral gearbox), it will just slip a small bit under max attack, swap the oil to bike stuff and it'll be fine.... but a bike gearbox creates massive shear forces that cuts crappy car oil up like a pair of scissors and all the molecules that lubricate things are mashed up (and in the end the box and other bits of the engine will be properly damaged) - you'll get 500 miles and then the gear change will start to get nasty as car oil gives up

The Hexhead has separate gearbox oil. Car oil is fine if the viscosity is ok, but 15W-50 fully synthetic MA2 oil is cheaper anyway.

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