Sorting out the front engine casing

[Fomb]

I'm looking at replacing or repainting the metal front engine casing as it's looking a little tatty.

Question is, does this come straight off with no fuss? What's behind here - do I need to drain oil and so on?

Also, is repainting worth it, or would it be better to replace with a new one?

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

New one is about £120 from a main BMW dealer in either black or silver, so the choice is yours

 

[uncle dick]

I removed the front shock and put a trolley jack under the wheel so it was easy to move the suspension arm and gain access. Move the alternator back as far as possible to allow the casing to drop down. No need to drain oil. Remove the starter motor cover to get at the hole in the gearbox casing and make up some sort of locking pin for the flywheel. You can do this beforehand.

If you're buying secondhand, they did change design in approx 1998 - different breather set up.

Someone will be along in a minute advising you to change the Hall sensor plate.

 

[AberdeenAngus]

Why not have a bash at repainting it and, if it looks like cat sick when you're finished you can always replace it.
Very satisfying doing it yourself.

 

[(RIP) Mark H]

Its all here; 20775 views, seems a lot of corroded timing cases out there!

(It's a 1200, but the principles the same)

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=136102&highlight=paint+Timing+Chest

 

[Steptoe]

To remove the front cover you'll need to undo the front telever arm and move ot forward so the front cover can be pulled forward and dropped down over the front of the crank.

No need to lock the flywheel to undo the pulley nut. Put a 16mm socket on the end of a ratchet, turn the ignition on and a quick tap the starter button, undoes the nut in a nano second

 

[uncle dick]

To remove the front cover you'll need to undo the front telever arm and move ot forward so the front cover can be pulled forward and dropped down over the front of the crank.

No need to lock the flywheel to undo the pulley nut. Put a 16mm socket on the end of a ratchet, turn the ignition on and a quick tap the starter button, undoes the nut in a nano second

If you lock the flywheel, it also allows you to easily torque back up again. I'll also re-iterate that you don't have to move the suspension arm. Mine looked like it didn't want to be undone so it was quite easy to move the alternator back. You've already taken its mounts off anyway...

 

[MattW]

I'd try repainting it - as others have said, if it looks cack just buy another one (or try again).

I did mine in-situ but removing it would make for a much easier job.

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