taking off front engine casing

[TLSgazza]

I would like to remove the above with a view to having it blasted and powder coated.
Is this a straight forward job.
I take I will need a new gasket etc.
Are there any special tools needed?
Do I need to remove anything else to get access to remove it.
Do I need to drain the oil.
Will anything pop out of the front of the engine unexpectedly.
Dealer has quoted me £300.00 to have a new one fitted and was wondering if its an easyish job to do myself to save a few quid.
I'm Quite good mechanically just wondered if anyone has any advice.
Ta very muchly.
Oh yeah. It's on an 06 GSA.

 

[Robbo1200ADV]

Here you go

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=167909

 

[(RIP) Mark H]

Not necessary to remove just for refinishing;

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=136102

 

[DrFarkoff]

It dropped a valve and I needed the gritty bits outta the crankcase

Album is here if you want a peek

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://s663.photobucket.com/albums/uu352/Jaythro55/Petes%20R1200GS/?albumview=slideshow" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[Pukmeister]

Last time that BMW replaced mine, there was an excess of clear silicone sealant around the casing joint, therefore I guess its metal-to-metal with either silicone or Hylomar sealant etc, no gasket required.

 

[adventuredon]

Warranty Replacement then or not..?

so, having quickly perused the links, do most think this is a warranty claim then?

 

[TLSgazza]

Cheers guys.
I like the idea of leaving it in place and doing it. Sounds like a lot less hassle.
Can't believe how much corrosion is under the black cover in some of those pictures. Fack knows what mine is going to be like as the corrosion around it is becoming terrible. Never ridden it through the winter either though it has now done 39.000 miles .
Dumping the foam insert seems to be the way to go as well.
Will have a good look at it over the winter

 

[Bobbin-Man]

I did mine in-situ and although the job is "okay" it is fiddly. There's an oil pipe on the left side of the engine which makes painting the area behind it a little awkward - ages spent with masking tape whilst still trying to leave access to the front panel as free as possible. Mine was really badly corroded at the bottom and even after flatting back in a big way, the pitting is still evident. Maybe some time in the future I'll remove it and get it done properly, although if I removed it I think I'd be tempted to invest in a new one!

 

[Bobbin-Man]

Last time that BMW replaced mine, there was an excess of clear silicone sealant around the casing joint, therefore I guess its metal-to-metal with either silicone or Hylomar sealant etc, no gasket required.

The stuff to use is "RTV" adhesive sealant.

 

[Mark Hooton]

Try this afterwards!

I know I know I make them

but you don`t have to get it from me (unless you want the best )

but get one of these

[/url]
Triple Black by cymarceng, on Flickr[/IMG]

To stop this

[/url]
IMG_1003 by cymarceng, on Flickr[/IMG]

www.cymarcbikeparts.co.uk

 

[davegs]

Mud protection

Do what I did, get a piece of rubber sheet (model engineering exibition £3.00.)
make a long mud flap problem solved!!

 

[Mark Hooton]

Do what I did, get a piece of rubber sheet (model engineering exibition £3.00.)
make a long mud flap problem solved!!

Bloody good idea!

 

[Bendy toy]

Last time that BMW replaced mine, there was an excess of clear silicone sealant around the casing joint, therefore I guess its metal-to-metal with either silicone or Hylomar sealant etc, no gasket required.

If you do choose to refinish the cover, powder coat is great on aluminium, but the metallics look very plastic. There will also be some metal pitting to deal with.

Far be it for me to contradict BMW, but the best gasket sealant I have on bike engines used is Loctite 518. Its anaerobic so unlike silicone, stays fluid outside the joint. It wont leave anything to clog oil galleries. It is however more costly then silicone.

I believe, powder coating is the best anti corrosion option. As the coat is thin (and this is purely a cover) have it coated all over so it wont suffer corrosion seeping under the edges.

Low temperature stove enamel looks great in metallic but its not really got the impact resistance of powder coat. I've used it on Yamaha engine covers which look great but the cam cover has chipped slightly where stones have had their evil way. The side covers still look pristine after 2 winters.

Non of these finishes have any fillers that can reliably handle the oven baking. So if the metal is pitted the only option is to use the powder coat as a sealer, flat the shine off, fill and paint over.