Spain (Picos) and France

[tjmouse]

Couldn’t convince the wife to take the bike so it’s a 4 wheel trip for us to get a first taste of northern Spain and France. First time taking the ferry to Santander so no bad thing having the extra luggage space.

Going to play a bit of catch up so this will be a blast post followed by more daily ones.

Day 1 Portsmouth to Santander

Super smooth crossing and we saw a few pods of dolphins on Saturday evening which was a treat. Probably the best into to a long ferry having the start of a heatwave and no wind!


Sunday

Landed early and whilst being last off the boat we had a very smooth journey through customs (no EES).

We had some time to kill so headed off down the coast to Comillas for some culture

Then it was back to Loredo for a few days by the beach to stop

Sunday - Thursday

Doing very little in Loredo, beach and sleep and doing as little as possible. 30-39C so doing little is a good call!

There’s a new restaurant in Loredo (La Frisona) where you can pick your steak. It was bloody good! And the wine selection was top tier as well.

Bodega Bahía de Santander for wife’s birthday dinner. Another excellent option with a stunning view.

 

[tjmouse]

Thursday

Transfer day to the Picos. Tried to visit a cave on the way but we hadn’t booked so went to Santillana del Mar instead for some culture and a lunch stop.

Then on to Potes and in a bit. Hotel del Oso was full so we booked Hotel El Jisu instead. Same road just 5km closer to Potes. Tiny family run place but great food, views and people. Highly recommended.

View from our balcony isn’t bad either!

 

[DING-DONG]

I noticed this Porsche (it was the reg) this morning, we staying @ hotel del oso for 2 days and you passed us this morning and again on our way back around 4 ish.

 

[tjmouse]

I noticed this Porsche (it was the reg) this morning, we staying @ hotel del oso for 2 days and you passed us this morning and again on our way back around 4 ish.

That has been the drive for today

 

[tjmouse]

Friday

Another hot day forecast so we rented a canoe and went down to Panes and spent the day on the river. Very enjoyable time and a good way to manage the heat.

Highlight was skimming a stone across the whole river. Childhood Tom would be very pleased!

 

[tjmouse]

Saturday

Sorry [mention]DING-DONG [/mention] for not waving.

Off to Fuente De this morning to get the cable car up to the top. You have to book in advance and then can do a walk into the Picos proper or a walk down. We opted for the later. 15km steady downhill the whole way. Stunning walk although my right knee did not enjoy the last 4km and is very sad now! Good job tomorrow is a driving day!

Back at the hotel with a beer and Qwirkle after a very enjoyable walk.

Tomorrow it’s a loop of the Picos, N-621, N-626, AS-114

 

[wessie]

at least you don't get your nice walk interrupted by oiks on motorcycles or in Land Cruisers now

 

[Wapping]

I noticed this Porsche (it was the reg) this morning, we staying @ hotel del oso for 2 days and you passed us this morning and again on our way back around 4 ish.

An excellent opportunity to give the ‘Tossers Salute’.

 

[Ectopic]

Great pics. And a nice car to enjoy the roads.

We're off on a road trip to Spain in a week, though driving down through France this time after taking the ferry for a few years. We've seen the beach at Loredo from the ferry and thought it looked good. A smooth crossing is a blessing, and it's always nice to see dolphins.

Canoeing is my wife's idea of hell. Going up the cable car at Fuente De is mine. So we won't be doing either of those!

Enjoy the rest of the trip. I'll be following.

 

[RedRick Esq.]

Turn right at La Hermida onto the CA282 and then head up the the Mirador Santa Catalina

It is one of the most spectacular Miradors there is

The Mirador above Ariondas is 2nd best and whilst in that area there is a particularly interesting restaurant in Ariaondas run by some Nuns who have been ex communicated or something
https://english.elpais.com/spain/20...-open-spains-first-cloistered-restaurant.html
if its still open
If you fancy an ice cream or a cake by the sea head to Ribadesella its lovely there

 

[tjmouse]

The proprietor owns a farm with 100 cows. I ordered the veal steak and he showed me a video of the cow from last week! That’s a first! Was delicious though

 

[Ectopic]

The proprietor owns a farm with 100 cows. I ordered the veal steak and he showed me a video of the cow from last week! That’s a first! Was delicious though

The Restaurant at the End of the Universe does something similar. You get to talk to the cow before it is chopped up.

 

[tjmouse]

Sunday

Well the heatwave broke today! Woke up to cloudy sky’s but today was a planned driving day so that was ok. Plan was a big loop of the Picos N-621 south, N-625 north with a diversion to Valdeon and then As-114 back to the N-621 back up to Potes.

Cloudy start but that made it all the more scenic with the mountains capped in cloud. By the time we got to the first viewpoint though it was less of a view!

Heading to Mirador del Oso and it was thick cloud, couldn’t see where we were going so we bailed on that and carried on down the N-621.

As we crossed the ridge the cloud broke and we had a beautiful sunny view! An open road and no traffic

We stopped at a little cafe bar for a coffee in the sun and enjoyed the views.

It’s photo thin today as it clouded over again but the N-621 from Potes south to Riaño is very enjoyable.

The lake at Riaño is stunning with dramatic mountains in the background. I expect there’s a great viewpoint for taking photos, we didn’t find it! We did enjoy the road swooping round it though and soaking in the stunning views before we turned right onto the N-625.

The N-625 … god what a road! It is engaging and hard work but it is bloody brilliant!

We did it in 2 parts heading up to the LE-2711 and right to Valdeón and then retracing our steps and heading on north. Turning right onto the LE-2711 we were straight back into the cloud, proper pea soup job. I nearly gave up and turned back but decided to stick with it and was very glad we did. Valdeón has a couple of restaurants but it was 1pm so they weren’t open for lunch yet (Spanish timings a strange!). The viewpoint though was well worth it. We’d dropped out of the clouds and had a great spot to stretch the legs.

We could even see some birds of prey which were probably Golden Eagles but I forgot to pack the binoculars so I can’t confirm it or maybe I can just say it convincingly … there were a few Golden Eagles circling the cliffs which were pretty cool to watch as well. There we go.

Anyway back on the road and back to the clouds, emerging back onto the N-625 for the northern part, it’s a twisty canyon road and narrow at places, don’t cross the white line with your head, a few bikers were trying to loose there’s! It’s an awesome road though, great fun to drive and a lot less traffic than the N-621 from Panes to Potes (more on that later).

We stopped for lunch at Restaurante de Rita which was very good. Loads of parking over the road to a good little place to take a break.

Whilst we were stopped the rain arrived, just light drizzle but it made everything very moody! We carried on to Cangas de Onis and stopped for fuel (€1.53 for 98 which seemed very good value). Then onto the AS-114 which is another fun road, a few more towns so you keep having to slow and a lot more traffic that we weren’t about to blat past in the rain. I recon it’d be great on the bike though if you got a clear run.

Reaching Panes its back onto the N-621 to Potes. This is an amazing bit of road, fresh tarmac and posh wooden crash barriers and you wind up the canyon. It’d be incredible if it wasn’t so busy! We’ve done it 5 times now and every time got stuck behind a camper or caravan. There just aren’t the passing places to get on and make progress. Such a shame as your trundling along at 40kph on a road that’s crying out to do 80+ on and if you get a gap you get stuck again 5 corners later. Anyway, if you get lucky it’d be immense but if not it’s just a pretty canyon drive and you have to sit back and enjoy the views (if it’s not raining)!

So that was it, a first proper taste of Picos roads for me and I will definitely be back on the bike to try some of the smaller ones, it is incredibly beautiful here and the road conditions are night and day better than the UK.

 

[Arsey]

Sunday

Well the heatwave broke today! Woke up to cloudy sky’s but today was a planned driving day so that was ok. Plan was a big loop of the Picos N-621 south, N-625 north with a diversion to Valdeon and then As-114 back to the N-621 back up to Potes.

Cloudy start but that made it all the more scenic with the mountains capped in cloud. By the time we got to the first viewpoint though it was less of a view!

Heading to Mirador del Oso and it was thick cloud, couldn’t see where we were going so we bailed on that and carried on down the N-621.

As we crossed the ridge the cloud broke and we had a beautiful sunny view! An open road and no traffic

We stopped at a little cafe bar for a coffee in the sun and enjoyed the views.

It’s photo thin today as it clouded over again but the N-621 from Potes south to Riaño is very enjoyable.

The lake at Riaño is stunning with dramatic mountains in the background. I expect there’s a great viewpoint for taking photos, we didn’t find it! We did enjoy the road swooping round it though and soaking in the stunning views before we turned right onto the N-625.

The N-625 … god what a road! It is engaging and hard work but it is bloody brilliant!

We did it in 2 parts heading up to the LE-2711 and right to Valdeón and then retracing our steps and heading on north. Turning right onto the LE-2711 we were straight back into the cloud, proper pea soup job. I nearly gave up and turned back but decided to stick with it and was very glad we did. Valdeón has a couple of restaurants but it was 1pm so they weren’t open for lunch yet (Spanish timings a strange!). The viewpoint though was well worth it. We’d dropped out of the clouds and had a great spot to stretch the legs.

We could even see some birds of prey which were probably Golden Eagles but I forgot to pack the binoculars so I can’t confirm it or maybe I can just say it convincingly … there were a few Golden Eagles circling the cliffs which were pretty cool to watch as well. There we go.

Anyway back on the road and back to the clouds, emerging back onto the N-625 for the northern part, it’s a twisty canyon road and narrow at places, don’t cross the white line with your head, a few bikers were trying to loose there’s! It’s an awesome road though, great fun to drive and a lot less traffic than the N-621 from Panes to Potes (more on that later).

We stopped for lunch at Restaurante de Rita which was very good. Loads of parking over the road to a good little place to take a break.

Whilst we were stopped the rain arrived, just light drizzle but it made everything very moody! We carried on to Cangas de Onis and stopped for fuel (€1.53 for 98 which seemed very good value). Then onto the AS-114 which is another fun road, a few more towns so you keep having to slow and a lot more traffic that we weren’t about to blat past in the rain. I recon it’d be great on the bike though if you got a clear run.

Reaching Panes its back onto the N-621 to Potes. This is an amazing bit of road, fresh tarmac and posh wooden crash barriers and you wind up the canyon. It’d be incredible if it wasn’t so busy! We’ve done it 5 times now and every time got stuck behind a camper or caravan. There just aren’t the passing places to get on and make progress. Such a shame as your trundling along at 40kph on a road that’s crying out to do 80+ on and if you get a gap you get stuck again 5 corners later. Anyway, if you get lucky it’d be immense but if not it’s just a pretty canyon drive and you have to sit back and enjoy the views (if it’s not raining)!

So that was it, a first proper taste of Picos roads for me and I will definitely be back on the bike to try some of the smaller ones, it is incredibly beautiful here and the road conditions are night and day better than the UK.

Good stuff .
You basically drove the standard triangle that most do, including me/us numerous times . Did it again only last month .

That bar in your second pic looks like the one in Portilla de la Reina . Did you see Zar, the lovely dog ?

 

[tjmouse]

That bar in your second pic looks like the one in Portilla de la Reina . Did you see Zar, the lovely dog ?

View attachment 516545

It is indeed that bar. No dog in sight unfortunately. Good coffee and a lovely friendly hostess though.

 

[Arsey]

It is indeed that bar. No dog in sight unfortunately. Good coffee and a lovely friendly hostess though.

He’s about 10/11 now as first saw him with my wife in 2018 when he was two ish .
I always stop there . The road out the back that cuts out Riano is good too . Gets you on to the N625 a bit further up or continue to Cain .

But for a first timer, the ‘race track ‘ section around the lakes near Riano heading north to Cangas is stunning .

 

[tjmouse]

He’s about 10/11 now as first saw him with my wife in 2018 when he was two ish .
I always stop there . The road out the back that cuts out Riano is good too . Gets you on to the N625 a bit further up or continue to Cain .

But for a first timer, the ‘race track ‘ section around the lakes near Riano heading north to Cangas is stunning .

“Race track” section is a great description! It was fun! I saw the corner cut option when planning - definitely going to try that on the bike

 

[timeandtide]

Sunday

Well the heatwave broke today! Woke up to cloudy sky’s but today was a planned driving day so that was ok. Plan was a big loop of the Picos N-621 south, N-625 north with a diversion to Valdeon and then As-114 back to the N-621 back up to Potes.

Cloudy start but that made it all the more scenic with the mountains capped in cloud. By the time we got to the first viewpoint though it was less of a view!

Heading to Mirador del Oso and it was thick cloud, couldn’t see where we were going so we bailed on that and carried on down the N-621.

As we crossed the ridge the cloud broke and we had a beautiful sunny view! An open road and no traffic

We stopped at a little cafe bar for a coffee in the sun and enjoyed the views.

It’s photo thin today as it clouded over again but the N-621 from Potes south to Riaño is very enjoyable.

The lake at Riaño is stunning with dramatic mountains in the background. I expect there’s a great viewpoint for taking photos, we didn’t find it! We did enjoy the road swooping round it though and soaking in the stunning views before we turned right onto the N-625.

The N-625 … god what a road! It is engaging and hard work but it is bloody brilliant!

We did it in 2 parts heading up to the LE-2711 and right to Valdeón and then retracing our steps and heading on north. Turning right onto the LE-2711 we were straight back into the cloud, proper pea soup job. I nearly gave up and turned back but decided to stick with it and was very glad we did. Valdeón has a couple of restaurants but it was 1pm so they weren’t open for lunch yet (Spanish timings a strange!). The viewpoint though was well worth it. We’d dropped out of the clouds and had a great spot to stretch the legs.

We could even see some birds of prey which were probably Golden Eagles but I forgot to pack the binoculars so I can’t confirm it or maybe I can just say it convincingly … there were a few Golden Eagles circling the cliffs which were pretty cool to watch as well. There we go.

Anyway back on the road and back to the clouds, emerging back onto the N-625 for the northern part, it’s a twisty canyon road and narrow at places, don’t cross the white line with your head, a few bikers were trying to loose there’s! It’s an awesome road though, great fun to drive and a lot less traffic than the N-621 from Panes to Potes (more on that later).

We stopped for lunch at Restaurante de Rita which was very good. Loads of parking over the road to a good little place to take a break.

Whilst we were stopped the rain arrived, just light drizzle but it made everything very moody! We carried on to Cangas de Onis and stopped for fuel (€1.53 for 98 which seemed very good value). Then onto the AS-114 which is another fun road, a few more towns so you keep having to slow and a lot more traffic that we weren’t about to blat past in the rain. I recon it’d be great on the bike though if you got a clear run.

Reaching Panes its back onto the N-621 to Potes. This is an amazing bit of road, fresh tarmac and posh wooden crash barriers and you wind up the canyon. It’d be incredible if it wasn’t so busy! We’ve done it 5 times now and every time got stuck behind a camper or caravan. There just aren’t the passing places to get on and make progress. Such a shame as your trundling along at 40kph on a road that’s crying out to do 80+ on and if you get a gap you get stuck again 5 corners later. Anyway, if you get lucky it’d be immense but if not it’s just a pretty canyon drive and you have to sit back and enjoy the views (if it’s not raining)!

So that was it, a first proper taste of Picos roads for me and I will definitely be back on the bike to try some of the smaller ones, it is incredibly beautiful here and the road conditions are night and day better than the UK.

Great pics - thanks for posting!

 

[tjmouse]

Dinner tonight at Anybun in Potes

Good burger (not breaking into my top 5 though), fries were overcooked so a bit crispy. Rains stopped so we went for a wonder through town before heading back to the hotel.

Off to San Sebastián tomorrow, planning on taking an indirect route to pick up the CL-627.

 

[Arsey]

Dinner tonight at Anybun in Potes

Good burger (not breaking into my top 5 though), fries were overcooked so a bit crispy. Rains stopped so we went for a wonder through town before heading back to the hotel.

Off to San Sebastián tomorrow, planning on taking an indirect route to pick up the CL-627.

Love San Sebastián . Where you staying ? In town ?