Spain, Sardinia, Corsica 2025

AustinW

Well-known member
UKGSer Subscriber
Joined
Jan 22, 2014
Messages
2,345
Reaction score
736
Location
Garstang Lancashire
It’s going to be picture lite as these days o can’t be arsed to try and get a good photo on my phone. I’ll try and keep it brief though..,..

Last big bike trip was 2023 to Greece via Balkans and back via Balkans. Then we bought a campervan and I honestly thought our big trips on the bike days were done. But the itch returned and a plan formed. Ferry from Barcelona cuts loads of miles from getting a long way south quickly so….

Plymouth >> Santander and return got booked
Then Barcelona >> Sardinia two days later (and a return) was also booked. The trip was taking shape. Umm and that was it.

So, lots of prep ensued getting us and the bike trip fit. At T- 2 weeks I thought it had all gone wrong with the bike going into limp mode after washing it together with an “urgent service alarm” warning. After buying the right cable and a new OBD2 reader it was diagnosed as a throttle problem. Water ingress no doubt ( some bloody adv bike, eh). I refitted my old non- heated grip throttle and all was good. But in the messing about one of the mirror threads had got stripped and it wouldn’t tighten. After ID’ing the thread (10mm fine) and ordering a V coil kit I worked out that without the handguard there was enough good thread left to hold the mirror. But that meant loosening the locking mechanism on the mirror that allows you to adjust the arm. After a bit of struggle it all came apart nicely and either done cable ties I even got the hand guard in place. A week to go now and the weather looked fair for the week. Let’s go early I said and have a few days in Cornwall. So we did …. And managed to get a space in Tiffany Coates’ place in deepest Cornwall. Double bonus.

Plymouth Ferry was the normal well organised and ordered stuff. Ride across Spain to Barcelona was straightforward non- motorway epic Spanish roads. One night in a nice Brittany Ferries hotel, the other in a roadhouse/motel/Hostel a few Ks south or Zaragoza - €80 DB&B for two. Noisy but clean and cheap.

We also discovered that Barcelona has a clean air zone. You have to have a pass which we didn’t have, but only before 8pm. Do we dawdled as we got near then sat on a beachside bench eating olives n stuff until it was time.

If you are used to the orderly queuing system at British ferry ports the Barcelona system is mad. Boat was scheduled to leave at 1 minute to midnight. Last checkin 1 hour before. Just park up - We got there about 9pm - and go to the ticket hall. Show passport, and get tickets. Dead easy. Wait by bikes. Dozens and dozens of them. But few riders. They were all in the Bar/cafe eating and drinking coffee/wine/ beer. Ferry Staff wanted to check tickets and put a sticker on the bike to sort you into two queues - one for Sardininia the other for mainland Italy as the boat went to both. At about T-30minutes the cafe emptied and demanding Spaniards, Italians and Germans all after the poor guy checking tickets. Soon after there was a mass start and after much shoving, pushing, revving and queue jumping we all got parked on deck. I don’t know what time the boat left as we went and had a beer, then went to bed. I think we were more or less on time surprisingly.

More later…..
 
If you do thes ferry crossing do book a cabin - sleeping on deck looked a nightmare except for a couple of people who’d strung up hammocks. They looked very comfortable. Everyone else looked very tired. The return trip is about half the cost of the BF Santander ferry. Bit we had pre booked food thinking it’d be better value. It wasn’t. Don’t bother.

Anyway they wanted us out the cabin a good three hours before docking. Which meant changing back into bike gear and carrying our stuff around.

Disembarkation was another mass start for the 150+ bikes getting off at Porto Torrres encouraged by the deck hand getting excited by revving bikes and waving his hands to get us off quickly. Great fun in the end. We soon found a hotel very nearby and walked to town for beers and pizza. It’s a busy port with several lines sailing to France, Italy and Spain so lots of bikes and other interesting vehicles to look at while people ate before getting an overnight ferry.

We had a quick whizz around town and the NW tip of the island before heading to Alghero for a mooch , lunch and ice cream. Our first of many. Then on down a wiggly coast road to Bosa for a break and a coffee. Fuck it, let’s stay here so we booked an Airbnb in town. It’s a steep hillside town with narrow streets that can’t be accessed by bikes let alone cars. The bike was parked about 200 yards away and a street level below. Lovely place. We extended the stay so we could have a better mooch about and a day out luggage free.
 

Attachments

  • 704E920A-A98B-41B3-874A-8396D58A4C1B.jpeg
    704E920A-A98B-41B3-874A-8396D58A4C1B.jpeg
    252.1 KB · Views: 52
  • IMG_8839.jpeg
    IMG_8839.jpeg
    487.2 KB · Views: 51
  • IMG_8841.jpeg
    IMG_8841.jpeg
    217.4 KB · Views: 50
  • 90C7D774-5A60-4F90-AE6A-9392180F1D83.jpeg
    90C7D774-5A60-4F90-AE6A-9392180F1D83.jpeg
    843.8 KB · Views: 49
  • IMG_4217.jpeg
    IMG_4217.jpeg
    264.1 KB · Views: 48
  • IMG_4224.jpeg
    IMG_4224.jpeg
    303.1 KB · Views: 47
  • IMG_4221.jpeg
    IMG_4221.jpeg
    419.3 KB · Views: 45
  • IMG_4222.jpeg
    IMG_4222.jpeg
    531.1 KB · Views: 46
  • IMG_4227.jpeg
    IMG_4227.jpeg
    508.5 KB · Views: 47
  • IMG_4223.jpeg
    IMG_4223.jpeg
    331 KB · Views: 47
  • IMG_8875.jpeg
    IMG_8875.jpeg
    452.3 KB · Views: 47
  • IMG_8883.jpeg
    IMG_8883.jpeg
    549.5 KB · Views: 46
  • IMG_4233.jpeg
    IMG_4233.jpeg
    387.1 KB · Views: 46
  • IMG_8887.jpeg
    IMG_8887.jpeg
    534.6 KB · Views: 50
Last edited:
After three nights in Bosa we were more than ready to leave. Plan A had been a lap of the whole island but the wiggly bits in the middle of the map kept drawing my eye so we decided to point the Sat Nav at town called Aritzo just coz it looked to be the epicentre of the mountains. Hells bloody bells what a ride. Most of it was torturously twisty mostly small mountain roads mostly on a sinuous single stretch of hot sticky black tar. You all need to come here at least once in your life. As we get on the final stretch to Aritzo we’d obviously joined a popular biker route as there were hundreds of them - Italian and German mainly and feck me some of them were quick and some utter loonies. I let a group of 4 German past - 3 GS 1250 and an XR M sport thing. We soon caught a coach. 4 Insane unsighted overtakes into tight corners on the very very short bits between corners followed Me, I stopped for 10minute as I was never going to get past that coach. We caught the Germans up at a coffee place a bit later. All 65-70 and should know better. We booked a booked the nights accommodation about 50 miles away here - which took 2 hours as it was so bloody twisty. I was knackered. Great little homestay place with a kitchenette for our use and a terrace with a view.

Next day it was a short hop to join SS125 at Tortoli. A well known biker route. Stupendous views and as twisty as its reputation. But I didn’t like it. Too many loons in cars and bikes being heroic on the corners, or am I just slow now, but with a fully loaded two-up somewhat low powered Guzzi I just rode my own ride. GSs everywhere probably a third of all bike, Multistrada the next most popular followed by ATs, Ducati monsters and Yam MTxx.

Then minor disaster after lunch I pulled into a petrol station as I flipped my visor up it came off in my hand. Oops. Then the flip front wouldn’t flip. I eventually got the helmet off only find the bud end of my ear plug was stuck in my ear. Anne’s tweezers soon got it out but the helmet was well and truly jammed (3 month old Nolan 120-1). Feck. Anyway a bit of fiddling got the flip front up but the visor was busy and wouldn’t refit. Then some bits of the mechanism fell into my hand. Super bike shop where I bought the helmet couldn’t really help except find the nearest Nolan dealer about 120 miles away. Riding with just a sun visor was horrible. Bugs splatted me everywhere and my eyes were streaming. The bike shop was usefully open until 7pm and the chap there was quite helpful had a a good pole about the broken parts and phoned Nolan who said it needs to be returned for repairs to those parts. No offer of a temporary replacement or anything. So I bought another. Expensive but the only solution I could reasonably figure. The old one will go back for repairs or replacement when we get home. Now we’ve no spare space anywhere on the bike. The new helmet though is loads better and I can now see the visor mechanism had never been right on the old one.

We pointed the sat nav at a nearby small town rode there ordered an ice cream in a bar and surfed Airbnb and booking.com for a place. Which ended up being both cheap and nice. Good end eventually.

Next day was a short ride via a very touristy port and onto Santa Teresa Gallura where we had booked the 08.30 boat the next day to Corsica. Early start next day as check in is T-1 hour. This northern part of Sardinia is lots more expensive than the middle bits. Beers €5 compared to €2 or 3 and coffee at uk prices instead of €1.50.

More later

IMG_4243.jpegIMG_8896.jpegIMG_8893.jpeg9F85AAC1-E56C-450A-A8EA-FFD6C6CBD7E8.jpegFC59FF37-775F-401B-9C0B-C49103CFEDC2.jpeg

Special bidet bum and Fanny wash in our nice Airbnb. I think it’s for fannies really but my bum had a good dose regardless.
IMG_8902.jpeg
 
The ferry from Sardinia to Corsica is almost exactly one hour. Check in is straightforward - just park your bike at the front of the queue and find a guy in hi-viz to check your tickets &!passport and it’s done. It’s a smallish boat so a good bit of rock and roll but nothing dramatic. The bikes were tied down by the crew.

After a quick breakfast stop at a boulangerie in Bonifacio I pointed the sat nav at Propiano just coz it sounded nice. It was. But very busy as it turned out it was ascension day which is a National holiday in France. Half an hour with coffee and Airbnb found us a place a bit further up the coast. But the sat navs 2 hour estimate took us something like 5 with a lunch and slow progress on busy twisty roads. The lunatics were out in force too - cars and bikes.

Next stop the far north in a Yurt, so nice we stayed 2 nights. Near Saint Florent. We had planned a lap of the northern peninsula - Cap Corse but after stopping Santa Florent we did some shopping, had lunch and stared at the dozens of bikes parked up I guess cap corse is a popular route and I didn’t fancy it so we just drank coffee and watched the world go by. It was very pleasant.

We had always planned a bit of a longer rest/ holiday on Corsica so had booked 4 nights in a cabin on a campsite . Which is where we are now. In the hills with a river running through that forms natural pools it’s idyllic. Temperature is high 20s and we are stocked with beer, wine and food and fresh bread and croissants are delivered daily. It’s going to be a nice break.

IMG_8906.jpegIMG_8908.jpegIMG_8913.jpegIMG_8914.jpegIMG_8915.jpegIMG_8916.jpegIMG_4281.jpegIMG_8925.jpeg

We had a snake on the terrace this morning eating a gecko. I’ve a couple of videos of it going down if I can work out how to post them. A black western whip snake I think.
IMG_8921.jpegIMG_8920.jpeg
 
After three nights in Bosa we were more than ready to leave. Plan A had been a lap of the whole island but the wiggly bits in the middle of the map kept drawing my eye so we decided to point the Sat Nav at town called Aritzo just coz it looked to be the epicentre of the mountains. Hells bloody bells what a ride. Most of it was torturously twisty mostly small mountain roads mostly on a sinuous single stretch of hot sticky black tar. You all need to come here at least once in your life. As we get on the final stretch to Aritzo we’d obviously joined a popular biker route as there were hundreds of them - Italian and German mainly and feck me some of them were quick and some utter loonies. I let a group of 4 German past - 3 GS 1250 and an XR M sport thing. We soon caught a coach. 4 Insane unsighted overtakes into tight corners on the very very short bits between corners followed Me, I stopped for 10minute as I was never going to get past that coach. We caught the Germans up at a coffee place a bit later. All 65-70 and should know better. We booked a booked the nights accommodation about 50 miles away here - which took 2 hours as it was so bloody twisty. I was knackered. Great little homestay place with a kitchenette for our use and a terrace with a view.

Next day it was a short hop to join SS125 at Tortoli. A well known biker route. Stupendous views and as twisty as its reputation. But I didn’t like it. Too many loons in cars and bikes being heroic on the corners, or am I just slow now, but with a fully loaded two-up somewhat low powered Guzzi I just rode my own ride. GSs everywhere probably a third of all bike, Multistrada the next most popular followed by ATs, Ducati monsters and Yam MTxx.

Then minor disaster after lunch I pulled into a petrol station as I flipped my visor up it came off in my hand. Oops. Then the flip front wouldn’t flip. I eventually got the helmet off only find the bud end of my ear plug was stuck in my ear. Anne’s tweezers soon got it out but the helmet was well and truly jammed (3 month old Nolan 120-1). Feck. Anyway a bit of fiddling got the flip front up but the visor was busy and wouldn’t refit. Then some bits of the mechanism fell into my hand. Super bike shop where I bought the helmet couldn’t really help except find the nearest Nolan dealer about 120 miles away. Riding with just a sun visor was horrible. Bugs splatted me everywhere and my eyes were streaming. The bike shop was usefully open until 7pm and the chap there was quite helpful had a a good pole about the broken parts and phoned Nolan who said it needs to be returned for repairs to those parts. No offer of a temporary replacement or anything. So I bought another. Expensive but the only solution I could reasonably figure. The old one will go back for repairs or replacement when we get home. Now we’ve no spare space anywhere on the bike. The new helmet though is loads better and I can now see the visor mechanism had never been right on the old one.

We pointed the sat nav at a nearby small town rode there ordered an ice cream in a bar and surfed Airbnb and booking.com for a place. Which ended up being both cheap and nice. Good end eventually.

Next day was a short ride via a very touristy port and onto Santa Teresa Gallura where we had booked the 08.30 boat the next day to Corsica. Early start next day as check in is T-1 hour. This northern part of Sardinia is lots more expensive than the middle bits. Beers €5 compared to €2 or 3 and coffee at uk prices instead of €1.50.

More later

View attachment 415824View attachment 415825View attachment 415826View attachment 415827View attachment 415828

Special bidet bum and Fanny wash in our nice Airbnb. I think it’s for fannies really but my bum had a good dose regardless.
View attachment 415829
Decongestant for arse & fanny :D
 
The ferry from Sardinia to Corsica is almost exactly one hour. Check in is straightforward - just park your bike at the front of the queue and find a guy in hi-viz to check your tickets &!passport and it’s done. It’s a smallish boat so a good bit of rock and roll but nothing dramatic. The bikes were tied down by the crew.

After a quick breakfast stop at a boulangerie in Bonifacio I pointed the sat nav at Propiano just coz it sounded nice. It was. But very busy as it turned out it was ascension day which is a National holiday in France. Half an hour with coffee and Airbnb found us a place a bit further up the coast. But the sat navs 2 hour estimate took us something like 5 with a lunch and slow progress on busy twisty roads. The lunatics were out in force too - cars and bikes.

Next stop the far north in a Yurt, so nice we stayed 2 nights. Near Saint Florent. We had planned a lap of the northern peninsula - Cap Corse but after stopping Santa Florent we did some shopping, had lunch and stared at the dozens of bikes parked up I guess cap corse is a popular route and I didn’t fancy it so we just drank coffee and watched the world go by. It was very pleasant.

We had always planned a bit of a longer rest/ holiday on Corsica so had booked 4 nights in a cabin on a campsite . Which is where we are now. In the hills with a river running through that forms natural pools it’s idyllic. Temperature is high 20s and we are stocked with beer, wine and food and fresh bread and croissants are delivered daily. It’s going to be a nice break.

View attachment 415830View attachment 415831View attachment 415832View attachment 415833View attachment 415834View attachment 415835View attachment 415836View attachment 415837

We had a snake on the terrace this morning eating a gecko. I’ve a couple of videos of it going down if I can work out how to post them. A black western whip snake I think.
View attachment 415838View attachment 415839
That must have been wild to witness!
 
Great trip Austin and the photos are excellent.👍
You talked down phone photos in your first post, but it's where it's pointed that matters.
:beerjug:
 
Well, we got up nice and early from our snake infested campsite cabin, and set off in the cool dawn towards Bonifacio for the 9am ferry. All good, nice croissants and coffee at a Boulangerie just outside the port, front of queue, flat calm, and straight off the boat. One thing the cool dawn revealed was the lack of a pinlock in the visor was a bad thing and it misted up with every breath. (Remember my little helmet saga from an earlier post). It wasn’t going to be any good back on old blightly and thinking that we’d be riding up the M5&M6 through the night when we got off the ferry in Plymouth in just over a week a Pinlock would be pretty handy to have. . So we thought we’d pop back into the shop we’d got the helmet from to buy one, as it was more less on route. Nope they didn’t have one in stock and no, over in eu land a new helmet doesn’t come complete with Pinlock as it does in uk. I optimistically suggested the shark oxo Pinlock might fit. Aah si si the guy said. Whipped the visor off my helmet and tried a shark Pinlock on it. Sadly no, the fit was just out. He struggled to get my visor back into my helmet and suddenly it was obvious it was broke. I think he swore in Italian and was silent and still for ages before showing me a tiny bit of missing plastic crucial to holding the visor in place. There was then a stand off for an hour. I was insisting on a fix or my money back. He more or less insisting I’d broken something (again!) before coming in the shop and was trying it on - and no way was I getting a refund. I kept saying he’d broken it and should fix it. This was 5.30pm. Our boat tomorrow is 8am. It needed sorting NOW. But, No spare parts in stock, he showed me how the flip /visor mechanism is not user fixable (it would be if absolutely necessary but not under warranty). Eventually I suggested if Nolan would fix under warranty and post back to me in uk I could use my old helmet to get me home. After a long call to Nolan this was agreed. Back in the hotel I’ve glued and taped the visor in place on my old helmet (should’ve done this a week ago with hindsight). Hopefully it’ll last for 12 more days and about 1200 miles. I’ll need to be very careful with the flip.

Anyway now in Porto Torres again. Boat back to Spain tomorrow needs to be checked in before 06.30 so another early start.

Nolan N120-1. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THEM. But there might be two lightly used factory reconditioned ones for sale soon.
 
Despite the Grimaldi lines information saying checkin at least 2 hours before departure bikes were still rocking up until about 20 minutes before at which point I think the gate did come down. There were probably about 60-70 bikes loosely assembled in a parking area. Plenty to look at - a small group of classic Hondas the best bring a GL1000 with a lot of patina - nice.

The incoming boat docked at about 7am and we had a good view of the tie up and unloading which went surprisingly quick, especially some new imported electric cars unloaded by crew. Flat out or full on brakes was the only option for them it seemed. Bikes were let on after about 20-30 cars and we went all the through the boat and up a couple of decks to the pointy end. All rammed in together and very close. But they tied them down sharpish with two tie downs per bike. The boat is HUGE. makes the pont aven, Brittany Ferries flagship boat seem like a dinghy. We got lost so many times. The food we’d prepaid for was rubbish and everything seemed overpriced and bit crap. Nevertheless the boat left on time-ish (8.30am) and got about an hour early at 21.30. It was flat calm but It got tedious eventually though. The most entertaining bit was sitting on the sun deck (in shade it was effing hot) people watching. The Italians and Spanish are so entertaining even if we don’t understand a word.

Bikes were first off. We’d prebooked a hotel on the outskirts of Barcelona with a 24 hour check in. Half hour to get there on the Barca motorway which seemed very busy and fast. But, we got there in the half hour with just one small Navigation error and as a bonus we were upgraded to a suite and got a free breakfast upgrade too. A very quiet night and a very comfy bed so we had a lie in ;).

We hadn’t planned the next day at all - Saturday - so just thought we’d get away from the Barcelona metropolis stop somewhere and make a plan from there. We’ve another 4 night stay booked just outside Valencia so needed to go in that general direction but we’ve got 4 days to get there so we can take our time.

I dropped a pin on the sat nav about 20 miles north and jumped on the motorway. Then was warned by the Sat nav that there were 30minute delays on-route so rerouted it but made an error at a 6 lane multi junction situation and went straight into the congestion. Lots of filtering later we popped out but what should have taken 30 mins took forever. Anyway we still couldn’t decide where to go so dropped another pin on a road we’d used going south as it had good views and went there stopping not too far from Alcaniz for coffee and ice cream ( it’s hot ok). Feck, everywhere for miles around was fully booked. I later learned that it was the Spanish motoGP at Alcaniz so everything booked for that anywhere near Alcaniz. So we went south for a bit on a road that made the Sardininian twisties seem tame towards the coast and away from Alcaniz and had another look and phew found somewhere but it was poor value for money at €80 for a basic small twin room that should have been half that. It’s not only the Brits that take advantage of situations. I got drunk on two Duval 8.5% beers to soften the blow and couldn’t be arsed to wait until 8.30 for the restaurant to open so ate what we had stashed around the bike - Pringles, salami, guacamole and olives. Nice picnic in the end.

Sunday we took our time had coffee, turned our noses up at the breakfast and packed slowly and headed towards Alcaniz again. Loads and loads of bikes as you’d expect. I’d spotted a place during yesterday’s search that looked promising. Popular with bikers, good rating on booking, and two rooms available. For a change we booked it early in the day. And what a top decision. It’s in a National park called Maestrazgo on a route called “the Silent Route”. And it’s fan-bloody-tastic. Cheaper than the previous night at €68 for proper 4 star hotel. Big room made of stone. A big garage for bikes (loads of them due to the GP and in a stunning place. Hostal de La Trucha. I think we’ve been upgraded again as we’ve a huge triple room, double sinks, thrones ( and a bog) plus as the hotel is full evening meal was a buffet with wine included all fir €20. It’s been brilliant.

The area though….there’s big rocky gorges , pinnacles, peaks, tumbling streams, crystal grottos snd stunning views round every corner and there’s lots of those. This silent route thing is just mental. 68km of good black tar snaking across this steep mountainous area specifically made for bikers apparently. The hotel is about half way. I strongly recommend both the area and the hotel.

Only one minor thing to report today - Anne spotted the heel guard by her left footrest was loose. Actually it was just wedged in its bolts having scarpered somewhere. Those bolts also supported the pannier bracket. It could have been like this for a few days as the handling had been a bit off for a while. Anyway my toolkit includes a few bolts and washers and I soon had it put back together. All good and handling back to how it should be.
 
Well, we got up nice and early from our snake infested campsite cabin, and set off in the cool dawn towards Bonifacio for the 9am ferry. All good, nice croissants and coffee at a Boulangerie just outside the port, front of queue, flat calm, and straight off the boat. One thing the cool dawn revealed was the lack of a pinlock in the visor was a bad thing and it misted up with every breath. (Remember my little helmet saga from an earlier post). It wasn’t going to be any good back on old blightly and thinking that we’d be riding up the M5&M6 through the night when we got off the ferry in Plymouth in just over a week a Pinlock would be pretty handy to have. . So we thought we’d pop back into the shop we’d got the helmet from to buy one, as it was more less on route. Nope they didn’t have one in stock and no, over in eu land a new helmet doesn’t come complete with Pinlock as it does in uk. I optimistically suggested the shark oxo Pinlock might fit. Aah si si the guy said. Whipped the visor off my helmet and tried a shark Pinlock on it. Sadly no, the fit was just out. He struggled to get my visor back into my helmet and suddenly it was obvious it was broke. I think he swore in Italian and was silent and still for ages before showing me a tiny bit of missing plastic crucial to holding the visor in place. There was then a stand off for an hour. I was insisting on a fix or my money back. He more or less insisting I’d broken something (again!) before coming in the shop and was trying it on - and no way was I getting a refund. I kept saying he’d broken it and should fix it. This was 5.30pm. Our boat tomorrow is 8am. It needed sorting NOW. But, No spare parts in stock, he showed me how the flip /visor mechanism is not user fixable (it would be if absolutely necessary but not under warranty). Eventually I suggested if Nolan would fix under warranty and post back to me in uk I could use my old helmet to get me home. After a long call to Nolan this was agreed. Back in the hotel I’ve glued and taped the visor in place on my old helmet (should’ve done this a week ago with hindsight). Hopefully it’ll last for 12 more days and about 1200 miles. I’ll need to be very careful with the flip.

Anyway now in Porto Torres again. Boat back to Spain tomorrow needs to be checked in before 06.30 so another early start.

Nolan N120-1. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THEM. But there might be two lightly used factory reconditioned ones for sale soon.
you buy cheap, you buy twice 😬 :hide
 
you buy cheap, you buy twice 😬 :hide
The thing is they aren’t exactly a cheap helmet. But you can tell the difference between between a Nolan and my outgoing 8 years old Shoei. If I can persuade Sportsbikeshop / Nolan to give me my money back I’m going Shoei again.
 
The thing is they aren’t exactly a cheap helmet. But you can tell the difference between between a Nolan and my outgoing 8 years old Shoei. If I can persuade Sportsbikeshop / Nolan to give me my money back I’m going Shoei again.
I remember in 2003 looking at a Nolan Helmet, I ended up with Caberg as I hour it was a better product at the time, not least as it was best part of £80 cheaper too. That then followed by my Schuberth C3 Pro. Lovely helmet, but never did fit me quite right, then E1, Arai QV PRO and Now Neotec 2. Neotec and Arai are the comfiest helmets I have ever owned.
 
So, where were we. Aah yes the Silent Route. We did the remainder which continued to be as good as the first half and as it’s mostly at 4-5,000 feet it was all pleasantly cool. Then wiggled our way through the mountains for a bit longer until eventually we had to descend to Teruel and the 30+c heat. It’s too hot that. Anyway we made good progress on the N330 south through stunning valleys, gorges then open fields to our next stop at a Bodega hotel just outside Requena. We were hot and tired with the bikes temp gauge showing 33 when stopped but surly uninterested staff spoiled what could have been a great stay. The food was good as was the wine (and cheap). Nevertheless this was the first time I’ve actually left a poor review on booking.com.

Next day was a short run to our little cabin in mountsins for the next 4 nights. We shopped and never left the place throughout. Bliss.
 
Four days later we left very early to avoid the heat later in the day. A bit too early as it felt blooming cold and then we hit thick cloud at the top of the passes but it wasn’t for long, by 8am we had descended back into the valley and headed back north on the N330. It’s a right mix of twistiest, flat open straights and some great views all the way to Teruel. Then a short hop on a deserted N road that parallels the Autopista to a Hostal we’d booked ahead. My general experience of roadside Hostals in Spain is pretty good - cheap clean rooms with a good bar and restaurant in a traditional building. Usually full with lorry drivers or trades people. Normally a good vibe in them. This one was a motorway services. We could have cancelled but it was back to 33c and we were both too hot and just to the North was big black thunder cloud flashing and rumbling away and looking like it was about dump rain and hail. The room in the end was big, clean with a terrace that gave a view of the storm and apart from the thunderstorm was very quiet. So we had a surprisingly good menu del dia at the service station, drank wine and snoozed the afternoon away in a cool room. Picnic tea on the watching the sound and light show into the evening gloom was excellent. I should’ve filmed it as the lightning was non stop but I just don’t think about pics and films until after the event most of the time.

Sunday was more fast N roads that have been a good mix of quick oprn stretches then tight well signed twists and turns through the mountains for miles and miles. It’s been a good day with a decent Tapas lunch in Soria with these massive pork cracklings being the best things.


IMG_9013.jpeg
 


Back
Top Bottom