Spark plug cap removal tool

Victor c

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Hi

Is the removal tool for the dohc 1200 spark plug caps the same as the earlier 1200?
 
I have a range of flat pointed screwdrivers to chose from in my toolkit that do the job nicely. I spend beer tokens on beer.
 
I have a range of flat pointed screwdrivers to chose from in my toolkit that do the job nicely. I spend beer tokens on beer.

:eek:
Before you do harm, let me say urgently that that's NOT a good idea...

It's too easy to crack the top of the coil, or break chunks off it. When that happens, it's possible that bad mojo happens to the coil workings, and that coil may fail.

I have a pre-owned K1200S (seemingly worked on by Joe's Discount Motors or something).
When I first pulled the coils to remove the plugs (using the coil-removal tool from a GS Adventure), you could see the chips and cracks on two coils where someone had used the 'screwdriver approach'.
Both the damaged coils eventually failed. One within 5 000 Km of that service, the other within 13 000...

A BMW breaker should sell you the tool from a crashed GS or GSA for a few pence at most. I promise, you won't regret it.
 
:eek:
Before you do harm, let me say urgently that that's NOT a good idea...

It's too easy to crack the top of the coil, or break chunks off it. When that happens, it's possible that bad mojo happens to the coil workings, and that coil may fail.

I have a pre-owned K1200S (seemingly worked on by Joe's Discount Motors or something).
When I first pulled the coils to remove the plugs (using the coil-removal tool from a GS Adventure), you could see the chips and cracks on two coils where someone had used the 'screwdriver approach'.
Both the damaged coils eventually failed. One within 5 000 Km of that service, the other within 13 000...


A BMW breaker should sell you the tool from a crashed GS or GSA for a few pence at most. I promise, you won't regret it.

Thanks Nick. That is exactly why I am after the correct tool. Unfortunately the 2010 on bikes do not come with them in the tool kit.:nenau
 
Thanks Nick. That is exactly why I am after the correct tool. Unfortunately the 2010 on bikes do not come with them in the tool kit.:nenau


err. I haven't seen one in my 2009 kit either. wazzit look like? any recommended after market supplier?
 
:eek:
Before you do harm, let me say urgently that that's NOT a good idea..

A BMW breaker should sell you the tool from a crashed GS or GSA for a few pence at most. I promise, you won't regret it.

I have a plastic tool kicking around somewhere, used it once and it was shite.

Been using screwdrivers CAREFULLY since 2004 to service oil heads, no coil damage so far.
 
I have a plastic tool kicking around somewhere, used it once and it was shite.

Been using screwdrivers CAREFULLY since 2004 to service oil heads, no coil damage so far.
thats because your not a ham fisted tosser:D:D
spray a bit of wd40 onto the stick coil,give it a wiggle to get the lube onto the rubber.then ease it out.simple
ya dont need a crowbar:blast
 
They are the shite OE ones though. If anyone really wants to buy a tool rather than improvising with something they already have (like a screwdriver) at least the Laser one works.

Thanks for the feedback, but has anyone actually used one for an early 1200 on a 2010 on dohc engine?
 
I have a plastic tool kicking around somewhere, used it once and it was shite.

I admit, they're not the best tool ever made for the job... BMW make a steel workshop tool to remove coils, but it's probably Unobtanium and I wouldn't want to know how much one costs...

The trick to using the plastic tool is to make sure it's centred dead straight over the coil before pulling. Use both hands: if you're right-handed, try using your left to squeeze the tool onto the coil so it won't slip off as you pull. Note, I said 'pull' - not 'yank'. If you yank on the tool, it'll slip off the coil head.

spray a bit of wd40 onto the stick coil,give it a wiggle to get the lube onto the rubber.then ease it out.simple
ya dont need a crowbar:blast

Once you have the upper and lower coils off, use a small dowel stick to spread a very small amount of copper grease around the inside of the coil cavity. It'll stop the rubber sticking to the plugs.
This is some of the best preventative maintenance I've ever done. Using this method, I have on occasion been able to remove stick coils by hand (admittedly, my hands are quite strong).
I recommend Wurth. Very high-quality.

Don't use any more than the bare minimum of copper grease for this job, and only apply it just inside the coil's plug cavity. If you overdo it, you may cause the high-voltage current to bypass the plug and jump to earth.

Thanks for the feedback, but has anyone actually used one for an early 1200 on a 2010 on dohc engine?

Check the parts fiche on MaxBMW.com. You should be able to see whether the two vintages use the same coils. I don't see any reason why they should be different, but then I have been wrong before.
 
don't use copper grease.

a) its conductive, and

b) it mostly has a mineral grease base which will damage O ring seals on the cap.

c) Copper and any bare aluminium/magnesium will in effect (or indeed any two different metals) will make a weak battery and can cause corrosion, particularly if the grease has burnt off so they are in direct contact.


Use a proper silicone grease. Right thing for the right job. :rob
 
:eek:
Before you do harm, let me say urgently that that's NOT a good idea...

It's too easy to crack the top of the coil, or break chunks off it. When that happens, it's possible that bad mojo happens to the coil workings, and that coil may fail.

I have a pre-owned K1200S (seemingly worked on by Joe's Discount Motors or something).
When I first pulled the coils to remove the plugs (using the coil-removal tool from a GS Adventure), you could see the chips and cracks on two coils where someone had used the 'screwdriver approach'.
Both the damaged coils eventually failed. One within 5 000 Km of that service, the other within 13 000...

A BMW breaker should sell you the tool from a crashed GS or GSA for a few pence at most. I promise, you won't regret it.

Nothing wrong with using screwdrivers. The perfect tools for the job.
It's the person in charge of them that causes the problems you mention.

Plus plenty of coil caps fail without having been near a screwdriver. ;)
 
Check the parts fiche on MaxBMW.com. You should be able to see whether the two vintages use the same coils. I don't see any reason why they should be different, but then I have been wrong before.

Thanks for that Nick. Coils have a different part number, but tool is the same. Can now safely order off net.:)
 


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