Splines

Gs12bos

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GUYS ALL those who have Recently purchased the New GS1250 check your splines for grease , glad I did today, new bike with just over 600 miles on output shaft dry no sign of any grease, diff end not much better, glad I took advice from this site, so Many thanks.

I think it’s disgusting that BMW can allow bikes commanding premium money out of the factory like this they need to get a grip with there quality control team , need grabbing by the conkers !.
 
GUYS ALL those who have Recently purchased the New GS1250 check your splines for grease , glad I did today, new bike with just over 600 miles on output shaft dry no sign of any grease, diff end not much better, glad I took advice from this site, so Many thanks.

I think it’s disgusting that BMW can allow bikes commanding premium money out of the factory like this they need to get a grip with there quality control team , need grabbing by the conkers !.

well i said it in another thread ,i also bought a new bike last summer ,they were dry .i just did it myself
 
It’s a piece of mind knowing that there properly greased., and as you know it’s a easy enough job.��
 
I’m not sure… There may be a thread about this subject somewhere.
Alan R
 
stop-loud.gif
 
GUYS ALL those who have Recently purchased the New GS1250 check your splines for grease , glad I did today, new bike with just over 600 miles on output shaft dry no sign of any grease, diff end not much better, glad I took advice from this site, so Many thanks.

I think it’s disgusting that BMW can allow bikes commanding premium money out of the factory like this they need to get a grip with there quality control team , need grabbing by the conkers !.

Out of interest if the splines were as bad as you say what are you going to do about it? Did you video the work you did and your findings so that you can take this up with your dealer or BMW themselves. Confronting the dealership and demanding answers is the only way to get this issue addressed formally.
 
Thanks for your response, I have taken pictures and will be sending them off not only to the dealer, but more importantly to BMW uk.
 
I'll be doing mine.

There's too many of these now for it to be ignored. I'm gonna do mine and send pics to BMW. Not sure any dealer will be bothered, they get paid to do warranty work by BMW. And, are guided by BMW as to what the service covers, so they aren't responsible if they don't have to do it as standard.
 
I'm in the process of greasing the splines on my 2017 RS. The rear had been done by one of the previous owners, though
with what looked like Lithium grease - better than nothing.

I'm having a go at the g/box end splines. Bone dry it is too, and so far it has defied any attempt to move the shaft past the snap ring.
I've tried screw drivers tyre, levers (with a radius ground roughly to match the spline dia ) and a pry bar.

The fear I have is clouting my lovely red frame paint. I've masked up, and used bits of rubber sheet in case.

Putting grease on the visible splines seems useless to me.
Any ideas.
Thanks.
 
maybe say to Onahi from forum he is specialist on splines

As I've said in another post. I've been riding Boxer BMW drive shaft bike since 2000. Never had any issues. I've admitted that there is a problem with lack of grease from the factory. Im a construction / developer company owner, not a motorcycle mechanic at any level.
 
As I've said in another post. I've been riding Boxer BMW drive shaft bike since 2000. Never had any issues. I've admitted that there is a problem with lack of grease from the factory. Im a construction / developer company owner, not a motorcycle mechanic at any level.

Given your denial of the problem over the years with WC bikes I thought you was a senior designer for the BMW mothership :D

You best carry on with the re-grouting..:D
 
I did ask on the other thread. Ill again here.
If I hadn't of asked them to split and grease the splines. What would have happened ? How long would it have lasted ? I still believe , Nothing. Its only a problem when you need to take it apart. ?
I ride the bikes...... And pay people to service them. That's all.
 
I did ask on the other thread. Ill again here.
If I hadn't of asked them to split and grease the splines. What would have happened ? How long would it have lasted ? I still believe , Nothing. Its only a problem when you need to take it apart. ?
I ride the bikes...... And pay people to service them. That's all.

Personally I’m pretty sure there would be no problem at all as long as you never need to dismantle it

As already mentioned, the paralever setup removes the need for a sliding joint in the shaft as there is no change in length as the swing arm moves

So I guess in theory you could weld both ends on and it would function correctly, so being seized on with rust should have no detrimental effect other than you can’t dismantle the swing arm or FD

BUT ! And here’s the caveat if you really want to overthink the question……

There are always manufacturing tolerances and wear in any mechanical system, there will be a very tiny amount of end float in the FD and output shaft bearings, but, if the parallelogram is not 100% perfect then there could be a minute amount of length change as the swing arm moves
This would normally be taken care of by the possibility for the driveshaft yolk to slide on the FD splines (the other end is clipped but can also probably move a minute amount)
If the yolk is seized on, could a hypothetical length change apply more sideways movement to the FD or output shaft bearings than can be absorbed by their normal inherent end float and thus cause premature wear?
As I say, this is totally over thinking the problem and being somewhat paranoid :D
 
There's expansion and contraction with temp changes, this could load bearings axialy.
 
Personally I’m pretty sure there would be no problem at all as long as you never need to dismantle it

As already mentioned, the paralever setup removes the need for a sliding joint in the shaft as there is no change in length as the swing arm moves

So I guess in theory you could weld both ends on and it would function correctly, so being seized on with rust should have no detrimental effect other than you can’t dismantle the swing arm or FD

BUT ! And here’s the caveat if you really want to overthink the question……

There are always manufacturing tolerances and wear in any mechanical system, there will be a very tiny amount of end float in the FD and output shaft bearings, but, if the parallelogram is not 100% perfect then there could be a minute amount of length change as the swing arm moves
This would normally be taken care of by the possibility for the driveshaft yolk to slide on the FD splines (the other end is clipped but can also probably move a minute amount)
If the yolk is seized on, could a hypothetical length change apply more sideways movement to the FD or output shaft bearings than can be absorbed by their normal inherent end float and thus cause premature wear?
As I say, this is totally over thinking the problem and being somewhat paranoid :D

Just as i thought. As i did for my 1150 for 14 years and three GSA's since 2015. Just ride the dam things......
 
Personally I’m pretty sure there would be no problem at all as long as you never need to dismantle it

As already mentioned, the paralever setup removes the need for a sliding joint in the shaft as there is no change in length as the swing arm moves

So I guess in theory you could weld both ends on and it would function correctly, so being seized on with rust should have no detrimental effect other than you can’t dismantle the swing arm or FD

BUT ! And here’s the caveat if you really want to overthink the question……

There are always manufacturing tolerances and wear in any mechanical system, there will be a very tiny amount of end float in the FD and output shaft bearings, but, if the parallelogram is not 100% perfect then there could be a minute amount of length change as the swing arm moves
This would normally be taken care of by the possibility for the driveshaft yolk to slide on the FD splines (the other end is clipped but can also probably move a minute amount)
If the yolk is seized on, could a hypothetical length change apply more sideways movement to the FD or output shaft bearings than can be absorbed by their normal inherent end float and thus cause premature wear?
As I say, this is totally over thinking the problem and being somewhat paranoid :D

rust make metal break easy I think. :beerjug:
 


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