Squeaky rear end....

[blues n twos]

Advice please.

Last week I noticed that if I bounced up and down when sitting on the bike the rear drive shaft was making a dry / squeaking noise. When my mate put his hand on the shaft he could feel it vibrating.

The noise went away and I thought it cured itself, but comming out of London today I noticed it had returned. I did a 24k service on Sunday which included all the oils etc but it did it before I did the service.

I am supposed to be going to the Peak District this weekend camping so I was wondering if you new what it might be

My concern is that I will be doing 500 miles fully loaded and don't want to risk anything going bang

Jon

 

[carbold]

Had the same problem some time ago, in my case it was simply the paralever bar needing some WD40 on the joint closer to the footpeg...actually it was loads of wd40 and bouncing up and down til it stopped. hope it's that simple for you too

 

[blues n twos]

Well that does make sense as its the up and down movement that makes the noise. The vibration could be travelling as its in contact with the rear paralever etc. I will give it a good dosing and see what happens.

Thats a cheap fix so fingers crossed.

Anyone know of anything else to check?

Jon

 

[sproggy]

It's not uncommon for a damper to make a squeaking sound from one of its rubber seals. This is often dependent upon the weather, strangely. Try some WD40 (if you've got any left after emptying a can on the paralever pivot!) on the oil seal around the damper shaft, and make sure that the shaft is clean.

 

[blues n twos]

Well to shed some light on this.....

It's more of a creaking dry sound. It's defo coming from just in front of the black rubber gaiter on the drive shaft. The vibration is there but not at the other end by the foot rests.

I did give it a dollop of WD40 but it's still doing it.

Is there something that needs greasing in there?

Jon

 

[Grizzly]

It's The Bevel Box Pivot Bearings??

Hi Jon,
It's the taper needle bearings in front of the bevel box. there used to be a good article on the american ADV website:- www.advrider.com/forums/index
with "real world" methods and tips for the job - maybe somebody on here still has a link to the article?
Don't bother trying to lube or adjust - it's a waste of time and new bearings are only about £14 each
I changed mine at 20K and the replacements are still perfect at 65K - so I think it's another case of poor factory fitting??

Cheers...............Grizzly

 

[blues n twos]

Thanks for that Grizzly,

Are they easy to change for an amatuer mechanic?

Will have a search on here and the adv site.

 

[Gas'd Off]

Yup, rear pivot bearings. £60ish at dealer. It`s all that mucking about in rivers that does it

 

[blues n twos]

I have been in touch with steptoe re the bearings and was advised to try and adjust them first. Looking at my CD thingy it dosen't say how to adjust. Only how to replace.

Is this a doable thing for an amateur mechanic with limited balls?

Jon

 

[Steptoe]

I have been in touch with steptoe re the bearings and was advised to try and adjust them first. Looking at my CD thingy it dosen't say how to adjust. Only how to replace.

Is this a doable thing for an amateur mechanic with limited balls?

Jon

I've found it works on 75% of all bikes


You don't even have to take the wheel off - Loosen the large nut (30mm) on the inside of the paralever, tighten the large hex (12mm) adjuster till the play goes, retighten the 30mm nut - tight . all the torques are on the web .

don't worry to much about the 12mm torque, it'll be about 8 ft Ib, but yours will have some wear on it, so you'll find it'll need a bit more, but don't over do it - i've been adjusting mine for the last 20k miles, just a little nip every now and again - if you can be bothered, it doesn't take very long to change them, but i'm a lazy fecker with my own bike .

 

[blues n twos]

Thanks for that Steptoe, I think I could give that a go.

 

[Grizzly]

Worth A Go! - But Doubtful!!

Hi again Jon,
Adjustment!! - it's worth a go I suppose Jon, and I'm sure if you have play it will remove it. But "feel" will be difficult because those pins are installed with loctite!.
In my case, I had no play, instead I had the "creaking" symtoms like you - usually worse when the bike was hot? - the bevel box tends to get warm and i think this slight expansion is enough to aggravate the creaking?.
For that the reason I would suggest adjustment is a waste of time?, your bearings were probably installed at the factory with too little grease and too much pre-load (too tight) and by now the needle rollers have flats on them and are dry - hence creaking?. It's up to you but replacement is fairly simple and inexpensive so I don't really see the point in adjustment unless as a "get you home" job while doing the Long Way Round??
By the way, one of the suggestions in the ADV site article was NOT to use Loctite when fitting the adjustable pin ( the one with the locknut ) as this allows slight adjustment inthe future if required - I did this - although after another 45K they still haven't needed any adjustment!!. 20K from the factory originals tells you something? - and it's a common problem.

Cheers......................Grizzly

 

[Grizzly]

PS..................................

By the way Jon, I've found a copy of the article from the ADV site that I printed out at the time - it was published on the BMW Motorrad South Africa web-site at that time (with a credit to ADVrider.com).
If you can't trace it I can either photo copy or scan it and e-mail or post it if you want - it's not a great print-out, but it might be ok. If you want it PM me with your e-mail and address.

Cheers..............Grizzly

 

[Grizzly]

I've Found It!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Late Extra Jon!!.
Found the technical article is still On the BMW South Africa site!.
Here's a link:-

http://www.bmwmotorrad.co.za/bikes/workshop/default2.asp
Then select "Engine Matters" then "Final Drive R & R Procedure"

It shows perhaps, what a good article it is? - no BMW tools required etc - you wouldn't get an article like that on the UK BMW site?? - they won't even sell their UK punters their official manual on CD-rom!! - tossers!
Anyway, hope you find it helpful Jon - and anybody else of course!

Cheers.......................Grizzly

 

[Steptoe]

While/if your going the longwinded route -while not replace the stupid plastic cable ties with "proper" re-usable metal gaiter clips - you can then drain your swingarm of any water very simply, after you've been through any fords etc

 

[blues n twos]

Thanks so much for the links Grizzly, appreciate it.

I did notice your metal fasteners on the off road day Steptoe and thought I would fit some when needed. A good idea.