Squealing!

[Skippy]

I know this has probably been raised before but.....

What's the best cure for squealing front brake. It's embarrasing as it sounds like a London Cab/bus.

How about different pads?

I thought they would bed in or get better as they warmed up but no, just the same if not worse.

And I don't suppose this is a warranty thing??

Ta.

Skip.

 

[Shep]

Warrantee

 

[Deleted account 211025001]

This was cured by a new disc 'washer / bolt' upgrade on bikes prior to mid. 05, all done under warranty but was not a recall as only some bikes seemed affected.

Think you need to speak to your dealer and get them to remedy.

Make sure your discs ar not warped as well, y feel (ie slight pulsing at the hand lever) and if none here insist dealer measures disc 'run out' to make sure, as this was also a problem on some bikes before the new washers were fitted at the factory (happened to me but fine now I've had new discs and washers).

Andres

 

[peterh]

Mine were like that, but CW fixed them using the BMW service kit for that purpose under warranty. All is now peaceful.

 

[Skippy]

Thanks!

Andres and Pete, thanks for that.

Is it a "pop-in" job or does it require you to leave the bike with them for hours?

Skip.

 

[blackbird]

Had mine done at Rydales Cardiff all done just over an hour

 

[Brian ROSEN]

Squealing brakes

I suffered this badly for about 18 months; the dealer was very helpful, changing the pads twice and then both discs - but it still came back. THEN SOME KIND SOUL on this site, about a month ago, said that BMW had brought out new composite washers, two of each to be fitted to each of the 5 screws holding the disc to the wheel. I rang Woolastons in the UK who kindly gave me the part numbers and the BMW service numbers etc; I told my dealer who quickly obtained the washers AND ALL WAS CURED IN A VERY SHORT TIME!!!!!!
I suppose that the washers prevent the resonance/vibration/ passing from the disc to the wheel to be amplified. Absolutely no problem at all now.

 

[gavin@iow]

Andres and Pete, thanks for that.

Is it a "pop-in" job or does it require you to leave the bike with them for hours?

Skip.

It's an easy job, as i live on the IOW, it wasn't worth taking it across to the mainland, so i ordered thr 'rubberised washer' kit and did it myself, and while i was doing it i replaced the disc bolts with stainless items.

 

[Shep]

and while i was doing it i replaced the disc bolts with stainless items.

Is that a good idea

 

[gavin@iow]

Is that a good idea

Well, they won't corrode like the originals!

 

[Ken H.]

Can you post the part numbers for the new washers please?

 

[gavin@iow]

Can you post the part numbers for the new washers please?

34 11 7 682 434 (13.7mm) and 34 11 7 697 387 (8.5mm)

 

[Ken H.]

Thanks!

 

[Shep]

Well, they won't corrode like the originals!

I only questioned because I was led to believe that if you want to replace structural bolts with stainless you would need to increase the size (dia) of the bolt by around 1.4 (a rough guide) to achieve the same strength?

Shep

 

[gavin@iow]

I only questioned because I was led to believe that if you want to replace structural bolts with stainless you would need to increase the size (dia) of the bolt by around 1.4 (a rough guide) to achieve the same strength?

Shep

The application for disc bolts is 'in shear' rather than 'in tension', stainless is more expensive than plated steel, that's why most fasteners on the bike are steel.

 

[birdseye]

I only questioned because I was led to believe that if you want to replace structural bolts with stainless you would need to increase the size (dia) of the bolt by around 1.4 (a rough guide) to achieve the same strength?

Shep

They told you nonsense Shep. Cant generalise like that since you can buy high tensile stainless bolts just as you can the mild steel ones. If you go that route, make sure you get 316 or A4 stainless bolts since cheaper grades of stainless isnt always stain free.

Mind you, a blob of Waxoyl on the bolt head is a cheaper solution. Depends whether you want your bike to be a trailer queen or are quite happy for it to be grubby.

 

[gavin@iow]

They told you nonsense Shep. Cant generalise like that since you can buy high tensile stainless bolts just as you can the mild steel ones. If you go that route, make sure you get 316 or A4 stainless bolts since cheaper grades of stainless isnt always stain free.

Mind you, a blob of Waxoyl on the bolt head is a cheaper solution. Depends whether you want your bike to be a trailer queen or are quite happy for it to be grubby.

I've used A4 s/steel, button head, M8x20mm, same shape as originals apart from hex key as opposed to torx key turning method.