Stainless bolt kit - anything to look out for?

LotusMartin

LotusMartin

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After the 'messed up badly' thread on the oilheads forum I thought it might be worth asking - which bolts should I absolutely not remove?

I have a Chris Shaw kit to fit and apart from not knowing where half of them go, want to make sure I don't accidentally screw up!

I have the following to fit:



Can these all be safely swapped out (one by one) and are there any to be extra careful of?
 
all pretty sraight forward martin,i would do them one at a time being careful not to overtighten them.your list should make it reasonably easy to identify the right bolts.his description his very accurate and should make it easy.
 
Personally I never use stainless steel fixings, except washers on anything that needs torquing up. Stainless steel flows, which means when tightened if not tight enough they cannot be tightened further or more annoyingly undone.

Completely different application but many years ago I was involved in a project with a 12 m diameter water tank, the client insisted on SS fixings, we did the M16 nuts and bolts up with a nut runner, two days later the tank was leaking so we had another run round, most bolts were loose and couldn't be tightened. Replaced them all with Gr 8.8 BZP,
 
ymfb said:
Personally I never use stainless steel fixings, except washers on anything that needs torquing up. Stainless steel flows, which means when tightened if not tight enough they cannot be tightened further or more annoyingly undone.

Completely different application but many years ago I was involved in a project with a 12 m diameter water tank, the client insisted on SS fixings, we did the M16 nuts and bolts up with a nut runner, two days later the tank was leaking so we had another run round, most bolts were loose and couldn't be tightened. Replaced them all with Gr 8.8 BZP,
Click to expand...

Hmmm interesting. After some googling ( always dangerous!!) it sounds like blue locktite on non heated fitting and ideally graphite paste on the rest, although I think copper slip will probably be ok as God knows where you get graphite paste from
 
I wouldn't use them on the brake calipers to be honest. Not that they would break under load but more the fact that if you had a big one and the bike was found to have non standard bolts in the brakes, it could be an issue.
 
martin i have a big pot of moly disulphide grease you can borrow if you want:thumb
 
Sgt Bilco said:
I wouldn't use them on the brake calipers to be honest. Not that they would break under load but more the fact that if you had a big one and the bike was found to have non standard bolts in the brakes, it could be an issue.
Click to expand...

Iv used stainless on loads of my bikes can't see how this would be brought up,next they'd check tyre makes etc doubt it'd happen.
 
bikemad said:
Iv used stainless on loads of my bikes can't see how this would be brought up,next they'd check tyre makes etc doubt it'd happen.
Click to expand...

Yu may well be right and I have stainless on most of my bike but not on the brakes. I've had a couple of grown ups tell me it's not the wisest thing to do so I use the bolts designed for the job on the brakes.
 
it surely isn't worth the risk, play safe. Most people cannot tell the difference between BZP & SS.
 
Having worked for many years in the food industry where everything is stainless I can safely say I have never experienced bolts snapping under load, nuts undoing theirselves or anything of the like! I have experience stainless fixings binding up hence the use of copper slip or similar.
 
topcat2006 said:
Having worked for many years in the food industry where everything is stainless I can safely say I have never experienced bolts snapping under load, nuts undoing theirselves or anything of the like! I have experience stainless fixings binding up hence the use of copper slip or similar.
Click to expand...

BUT does the food industry run stainless bolts into aluminium alloy and then soak them in salt?
More likely a mix of stainless types. e.g. A4 vessels with A2 fasteners causing little of no voltage potential between the metals.

Stainless is unaffected but aluminium oxide is two times the volume of the metal. This expansion can jam the bolt threads solid.

So far, one side case carrier bracket bolt (M8) and two M5s holding the alternator belt cover have failed on me. All had open threads at the back. Others have had clear signs of alloy corrosion but not to the same extent.
 
Bendy toy said:
BUT does the food industry run stainless bolts into aluminium alloy and then soak them in salt?
More likely a mix of stainless types. e.g. A4 vessels with A2 fasteners causing little of no voltage potential between the metals.

Stainless is unaffected but aluminium oxide is two times the volume of the metal. This expansion can jam the bolt threads solid.

So far, one side case carrier bracket bolt (M8) and two M5s holding the alternator belt cover have failed on me. All had open threads at the back. Others have had clear signs of alloy corrosion but not to the same extent.
Click to expand...

Hence my comment about stainless binding up :-)
 
How is the 90th LM? .....fantastic aren't they! :thumb2

Mines covered in ACF 50....freaking me out but fingers crossed re March wash :thumb2

10 thou since May says everything, cannot leave it alone :clap

TD :thumb:thumb
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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