Stainless bolt kits

[BigDan]

Can anyone recommend or link me to a pretty comprehensive bolt kit? I like it to be all torx if possible.

The main ones that aren't great on my bike are all the caliper bolts, the front fender fasteners, fork pinch bolts and final drive bolts (including the mudguard at the back).

Many thanks

 

[lawvar]

Hi lots of kits on e bay
Thinking of doing the same thing myself
Thanks

 

[Alan R]

such replacement kits have been discussed here many times, I think that there is some doubt about the wisdom of replacing brake calliper bolts with stainless bolts. I can't recall specifically if it was tensile or shear strength that is in question, but there was some speculation that the replacement bolts could fail.
Alan R

 

[bisbee]

http://www.shawstainless.co.uk/

If you swap caliper bolts don't buy ones made from cheese

 

[younger06]

http://www.shawstainless.co.uk/

If you swap caliper bolts don't buy ones made from cheese

Jaysus, £63 for a full set of S/S bolts is not as bad as I thought it would be!!

 

[Bendy toy]

Electrolytic corrosion of the aluminium will be an issue on UK bikes. Use a good quality copper paste grease especially at the head end where salt, moisture etc gets in. Consider using copper washers as well.
Problems arise when you need to used thread lock. It won't work on greased threads but it's unlikely to stop the corrosion issue.
Some are best in zinc plated ferrous steel.

 

[Deleted account 190920001]

Was the Shaws kit that I had on mine.

 

[lawvar]

It makes you wonder though how much better they are than the e day ones for £23.00 !
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231378533037?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[Deleted account 190920001]

It makes you wonder though how much better they are than the e day ones for £23.00 !
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231378533037?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Shaws have the ends turned so no ugly writing and they are polished and finished properly. Whether it's worth the extra money or not is up to the person buying them though.

 

[Bendy toy]

On my new bar clamps I have one M10 with turned face and one with the pressed letters. I think the more rounded look of the unturned head looks better. Just opinion of course and I will eventually turn the other one to match.

 

[Greenman14]

Hi, I just bought a set off eBay for a tenner and they look just fine. Regarding corrosion issues there is more potential (pun intended) for stainless/aluminium to set up a galvanic corrosion cell than for mild steel/aluminium. The recommended maximum difference in potential between two metals is 0.15v; mild steel is 0.85v and aluminium is around 0.9v, so they would be ok together and generally are. Stainless steel is 0.5v for the more corrosion resistant 18%Cr and 0.6v for 12% chrome steels, so the difference between this and aluminium is significantly greater than 0.15v and some form of thread protection is necessary. Based on the galvanic series I would look for a washer of a material around 0.75v, and wrought aluminium fits the bill; alternatively a mild steel washer would be ok, though it could corrode, but you wouldn't reall notice it? Copper has a potential of 0.35v so could make things worse.

http://www.zygology.com/productcart/pc/Galvanic-Corrosion-Chart.html

Basically, we're swapping a risk of corrosion on bolt heads for one of thread corrosion. The alternative is frequent cleaning and/or ACF50 to keep the bolt heads looking shiny.

Ps, the bolts I bought from bolts4bikes are grade A2, which 18%Cr and they are non magnetic, the washers in the kit I bought are magnetic, so may offer some reduction in the risk of corrosion under the bolt head.

 

[Bendy toy]

As I heard that copper between stainless and aluminium works by being the interrupting the battery effect. Copper loaded greases certainly work very well. But its certainly odd that a higher number should reduce the problem.

 

[newboy]

I was thinking - oohhh shiny bolts....


Then it got all technical....

 

[Greenman14]

I was thinking - oohhh shiny bolts....


Then it got all technical....

Shiny is good, that's why there's a packet of bolts in my garage waiting to be fitted. ��

 

[Bendy toy]

Just use lots of good copper grease all the way up to the bolt head and it will be fine. Duralac might be better (marine grade anti corrosion) but it's more slippery so might cause the screws to shake loose.

 

[Sandman]

1. Remove rusty bolts
2. Clean off rust
3. Use a rust killer such as Jenolit
4. Spray with silver wheel paint - etch prime first.

Has worked for me for over 3 years. Not costly and I can be assured the bolts are the correct strength to do the job.

Might not look as shiny as stainless but I prefer the original look of the standard bolts. Plus I dont have to carry around multiple hex bits in addition to the usual torx when I'm off on adventures.