Stainless disk bolts
- Thread starter Lumpy
- Start date
Delboy777
Registered user
As far as im aware stainless bolts should not be used in braking systems because they dont have the sheearing strength of the OEM ones. Id just get OEM bolts and use them. Looking at the corrosion on those mounting points you might discover that they will be a pig to remove.
totally agree with delboy
If it was me i would clean them up and paint them silver. when the disc needs changing then change the bolts
Not cheap but quality, https://raceboltuk.com/product-category/motorcycle-kits/bmw/
Lumpy
Registered user
Thanks Andy
Lumpy
Registered user
Yes Delboy , that was another question , wasnt shure my self , the bikes not been used yet . Ill rub down and spray them in , ive seen disk bolts for sale what are not cheep , Im wanting the wheels and callipers done , same again maybe remove clean down and paint . Thanks
Deleted account 211025001
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You can use stainless in critical situations such as that, you just need to make sure you get the correct spec. Personally if it were me I'd just replace with OEM and not even bother with trying to clean up the old one's.
Andres
You'll get galvanic action between Carbon steel and alloys also - in fact any metals with a different activity.
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I had a few manky ones on my RT - 10 mins with the Dremel had them all polished to better-than-new, then a judicious application of super-tough ally wheel lacquer (being careful not to get any in the hole for the Torx bit!) and they still look like new 2 years later. 
Pete
Pete
If you do decide to remove them you'll need to get them hot first in order to soften the threadlock.
Hot air paint stripper is ideal, give it at least 5 mins on the head of each one to allow the heat to 'soak' right down the stud. It's hot enough when its too hot to touch.
Clean all the corrosion out of the head so the bit gets maximum purchase and then gently start to undo it.
Hot air paint stripper is ideal, give it at least 5 mins on the head of each one to allow the heat to 'soak' right down the stud. It's hot enough when its too hot to touch.
Clean all the corrosion out of the head so the bit gets maximum purchase and then gently start to undo it.
NicD
Registered user
hot air gun. don't need to be that hot
if you do clean calipers, don't split them as they are notorious for not sealing properly. They woudl likely benefit from new seals and pistons. OEM rebuild kit is the best. aftermarket not same quality. not something to scrimp on
if you do clean calipers, don't split them as they are notorious for not sealing properly. They woudl likely benefit from new seals and pistons. OEM rebuild kit is the best. aftermarket not same quality. not something to scrimp on
I've used replacement stainless steel disc bolts on numerous bikes for over 30 years and as long as they are of the correct grade I've never had a failure, look at the reputable suppliers who sell them
ie shawstainless, racebolt, pro-bolt and classicbikefasteners are just a few I have used
ie shawstainless, racebolt, pro-bolt and classicbikefasteners are just a few I have used
As others have said - you will need hot air to remove them. I found the rear disk to be an absolute bastard to get off when I rebuild my back end. Lots of heat and if you have or can beg, borrow or steal an air or electric rattle gun (impact wrench) then use that to break them loose.
If you try without heat, you run a very real risk of either breaking your tools, or rounding out the bolt heads.
Stainless
Pah
Go for Titanium
Pah
Go for Titanium
Lumpy
Registered user
dpalmer_2991
Registered user
I've used both stainless and titanium on several bikes I've owned and both have been fine! I actually swapped mine to stainless on my GS last weekend because I've just had my wheels powder coated!
My bolts looked about on par with yours, what you ideally want is a manual impact driver to remove them, they're the same principle as an air/impact wrench, but it wont round the head off instantly. They're only like £15 to buy and they're great, you put the bit in you need, put it in the driver, hit it with a mallet/hammer and it'll crack them loose. I'd also use a little heat as well just to make it that bit easier, but to be honest, I didn't when I did my GS, just because I couldn't be bothered to get my heat gun out really, lazy I know!
My bolts looked about on par with yours, what you ideally want is a manual impact driver to remove them, they're the same principle as an air/impact wrench, but it wont round the head off instantly. They're only like £15 to buy and they're great, you put the bit in you need, put it in the driver, hit it with a mallet/hammer and it'll crack them loose. I'd also use a little heat as well just to make it that bit easier, but to be honest, I didn't when I did my GS, just because I couldn't be bothered to get my heat gun out really, lazy I know!
Lumpy
Registered user
Cheers mate . ill give one a go , my wheels are tatty and would like them done . Thinking about changing the colour , very dark grey or black , im wanting to change the bike to black as well , can you post a pic ???
dpalmer_2991
Registered user
Yeah my wheels were getting bad, but what tipped me over the edge was when I was air drying it a few weeks ago I blew about a 6 inch piece of paint off the rear wheel! I went for like a gun metal grey colour. I would upload a picture but I'm not sure how to, I clicked the attach image button but it just asks for a URL instead of being able to browse my photos?
