Stainless Screws

ianran

Well-known member
UKGSer Subscriber
Joined
Apr 1, 2005
Messages
1,644
Reaction score
23
Location
Here and there
Bought some front cover screws on Fleabay. Quick warning their quality Is pretty poor. rough finish allen key not torx and definitely not "show quality" as described! Buyer beware:blast
 
There appears to be more than one person/company selling these bolts.

Who should we be aware of?
 
Proper Torx will not be low cost. As for the Hex heads, you put them in a power drill chuck and clean with a file. TBH Stainless and aluminium are a long way apart on the galvanic scale so the alluminium corrodes onto the stainless and seizes the threads. Use a marine grade antiseize paste.
 
To be fair bloke refunded immediately but its left me short of time for a cunning plan! Wont give name as he has been honorable about it.
 
Bought some front cover screws on Fleabay. Quick warning their quality Is pretty poor. rough finish allen key not torx and definitely not "show quality" as described! Buyer beware:blast

To be fair bloke refunded immediately but its left me short of time for a cunning plan! Wont give name as he has been honorable about it.

So let some other poor sap jump through the same hoops?

Where is the logic in that?

You found it important enough to post a warning.... But now that you have recouped your 50p you are happy?

Useless tosser.
 
Why would you buy bolts from ebay anyway? Nip along to your local fastner company and pick them up their, I got all of my front cover SS bolts for under a £5 from Grampian Fastners along with other bits and bobs.
 
Simple solution - keep your local fasteners business in business by ignoring the eBay tax dodgers. I use Pugh and Sanders form Derby and Burton on Trent. They will also sell via email or phone and post the stuff to your door.

TBH their plated steel fasteners are not great - the plating is thin. But they dont make any fancy claims and they are not costly. I've used them for years and had zero problems with the stainless stuff.
 
:blagblahAnytime you substitute one set-screw (bolt) for another, you must ensure that you are getting one of the correct tensile strength (or better) for the application.

Don't just "buy a bolt of the right size"


There are three main types of stainless steel

austenitic, martensitic or ferritic, and then differences in each of these - giving different characteristics to corrosion and strength etc.

Now, I'm not saying I would worry too much if I were holding on a bit of plastic trim, but if it is structural, say sub-frame to engine, then it becomes important to ensure you're using the right thing.

as long as you are aware there are differences, you can check with vendor for suitability of application (if they know what they are talking about) :blagblah

http://www.fastenal.com/content/documents/FastenalTechnicalReferenceGuide.pdf

Actually, this following link is more interesting... http://www.boltscience.com/pages/faq.htm
 
:blagblahAnytime you substitute one set-screw (bolt) for another, you must ensure that you are getting one of the correct tensile strength (or better) for the application.

Don't just "buy a bolt of the right size"


There are three main types of stainless steel

austenitic, martensitic or ferritic, and then differences in each of these - giving different characteristics to corrosion and strength etc.

Now, I'm not saying I would worry too much if I were holding on a bit of plastic trim, but if it is structural, say sub-frame to engine, then it becomes important to ensure you're using the right thing.

as long as you are aware there are differences, you can check with vendor for suitability of application (if they know what they are talking about) :blagblah

http://www.fastenal.com/content/documents/FastenalTechnicalReferenceGuide.pdf

Actually, this following link is more interesting... http://www.boltscience.com/pages/faq.htm

All the stainless kits i used to make up to sell over a period of 6 years for the 1150 and 1200 models (£56 a pop, and the 1150 kit weighed in at over 2.2Kgs) were stainless A2.
The only bolts i never used to supply were suspension bolts, i.e. rear shock absorber type bolts.
I quiet happily supplied brake calioer bolts and disc bolts, never had any complaints or problems. .
:thumb2
 
All the stainless kits i used to make up to sell over a period of 6 years for the 1150 and 1200 models (£56 a pop, and the 1150 kit weighed in at over 2.2Kgs) were stainless A2.
The only bolts i never used to supply were suspension bolts, i.e. rear shock absorber type bolts.
I quiet happily supplied brake calioer bolts and disc bolts, never had any complaints or problems. .

:

as long as you are aware there are differences, you can check with vendor for suitability of application (if they know what they are talking about) :blagblah

:thumb2


Sooo you gonna sell me a screw for my gear change...its got some stupid male torx head fastner on it at the moment...the only one on the bike!
 
:thumb2


Sooo you gonna sell me a screw for my gear change...its got some stupid male torx head fastner on it at the moment...the only one on the bike!


I'll have a look what i've got left. Bare in mind i've got a pallet full of boxes of stainless steel nuts/bolts/washers.
 
OK, so lets say you are going to replace the timing cover bolts... Is there any reason to remove the timing cover (maintenance items?) or shall I just do each bolt one at the time leaving the cover in place? I live in a dry, warm part of the world, so no road salt, or moisture problems...

Dave
Atlanta, GA
2005 R1200GS
 
Do bikes have screws on them ?

They have several riders with screws loose, that's for sure.


PS

As both are fasteners, primary differences seperate the two. A bolt is a type of machine screw that requires a nut or a threaded insert (reciever) to join 2 or more parts together. A screw, which is more general, has the ability to join parts together without a nut or insert.
 


Back
Top Bottom