Starter Relay pin 85

[EPP]

Hi my saga continues could anyone confirm that pin 85 on the starter relay should go positive on pressing the starter button? Mine doesn't so that might be my new starting point.

Cheers.....Ell

 

[Roger 04 RT]

Hi my saga continues could anyone confirm that pin 85 on the starter relay should go positive on pressing the starter button? Mine doesn't so that might be my new starting point.

Cheers.....Ell

Don't have my book handy, but if pin85 has a black wire that goes to the starter, yes, it should go high, and the headlight should go out when it does.

 

[Norfolk Tiger]

If it's a standard 4 pin relay pin 30 is permanent 12v,pin 87 is too the component (starter in this case),pin 86 is switch feed,pin 85 earth.
If you remove the relay and short between 30&87 in the plug the starter should spin as those are the terminals that join together when it's operated. 85 and 86 are through the coil to operate it.

 

[EPP]

If it's a standard 4 pin relay pin 30 is permanent 12v,pin 87 is too the component (starter in this case),pin 86 is switch feed,pin 85 earth.
If you remove the relay and short between 30&87 in the plug the starter should spin as those are the terminals that join together when it's operated. 85 and 86 are through the coil to operate it.

Cheers appreciate that I just chased all that through on the wiring diag but from the haynes manual I see pin85 as +12v not earth, it looks like it goes to the starter button the other side of the button goes through the kill switch and the other side of that goes to the iginition switch and picks up +12v. Where as pin86 goes to the clutch switch and picks up the gearbox earth, so im thinking pin30 +12v permanent, pin87 black to starter, pin86 earth, pin85 switched +12v. I will go out and pin it out to see if anything is not right. Many thanks for the help it has been good to have another pair of eyes looking over the diags, I do appreciate it, thanks......Ell

 

[EPP]

Ok all pinned out perfect only thing is still no +12v at pin85, so had a rethink about where thats coming from having written the above and had a closer look at the ignition switch much waggling of the key and boom it kicks into life, dam ignition switch looks like it will have to be replaced which will mean seperate keys for the panniers unless I change them all I think. Well at least I have it isolated after many red herrings and much checking, at least I understand the ignition/starter side of the bike more. Thanks again for the replies gets the brain cells going......off to the net to find that switch, then stick the tank back on.....cheers.

 

[NeilDD]

Ok all pinned out perfect only thing is still no +12v at pin85, so had a rethink about where thats coming from having written the above and had a closer look at the ignition switch much waggling of the key and boom it kicks into life, dam ignition switch looks like it will have to be replaced which will mean seperate keys for the panniers unless I change them all I think. Well at least I have it isolated after many red herrings and much checking, at least I understand the ignition/starter side of the bike more. Thanks again for the replies gets the brain cells going......off to the net to find that switch, then stick the tank back on.....cheers.

Maybe not....

the electrical part of the ignition switch is replaceable.
Find the red spot of paint on the side of the barrel and go in with a small jewellers screwdriver and the bit with the wires should come away from the bottom.

HTH

PS
It's probably got too many cable ties on the loom upto the ignition switch, which causes the wires to break