Steptoe's cat code 'plug' - it works!

[Le singe]

Steptoe's link is the map used for a standard,non-cat equipped,French 1100GS.
It may be applicable for other models,but I don't know which.
The BMW beige coding plug makes this link.
Note:this bike uses the older Motronic 2.2 system.

 

[cookie]

so you don't know either then?

note: i'm not saying it doesn't work, i think it does.

i can almost believe it's the same map that the same link selects on a BB chip but i want to know for certain.

ps. i think the link working on some bikes & not others, is nothing to do with manufacturing tolerances. different firmware in the motronic more likely IMO.

 

[Steptoe]

ps. i think the link working on some bikes & not others, is nothing to do with manufacturing tolerances. different firmware in the motronic more likely IMO.

let me correct myself - it does work on all bikes - but it's a lot more noticable on some, than others . It also makes hardly any difference when you measure the gases with a meter and swop from the standard link to the "steptoe" link - but it definetly runs better , as others have described .

I'd like to know what it's doing in the engine managment, but i'm not losing sleep over it . Just enjoying the effects

 

[cookie]

fair enough, i'm going to bed now

 

[Le singe]

Sorry,Cookie,only know the theory behind the system,plus,what specifically relates to the 2.2 system fitted to my bike.
I'm not a BMW 'expert' or 'specialist',there are a few on the forum,ask them,(don't hold your breath).
As I understand things,the BB set-up uses a different chip,you're bringing another variable into the equation,I don't think you're ever going to get black and white,yes or no answers to the questions on what does what to what.
Remember Dynojet dyno kits,one model of bike used one kit of needles,jets,etc for fine tuning.They always supplied a range because most bikes were different to each other.
All these different maps do is put you ball-park,changing a map,(coding plug),may make things better,but only a Techlusion type system will enable you to fine tune things.
My 1100 used the beige box as standard,after my engine mods,it is too lean,dangerously so,removing the box makes things slightly too rich,but safer.
I've tried all the other maps available,but all are worse than no box at all.
So the 'Steptoe link' works on all set-ups?Yes,except for this one,that one,and that one over there....

 

[Deleted account 220427002]

Many people have said it, but now we have proof Steptoe is a saint…

Can you see the way people are not fit to gaze upon this mechanical god among men and avert there eyes?

 

[cookie]

and i've tried the techlusion & was unable to make it work properly on my bike

 

[Le singe]

Probably due to the variability of components in your Motronic hardware

 

[HeatedGrips]

yeah, i know all that, but what map are you selecting with steptoe's link? it's certainly a different map, but what's it for exactly?
it probably is for an open pipe just as we suspect. funny no one from bmw seems to use it when they fit remus systems

i find it amazing after all the seaching i've done, that i've not found anyone who can/will answer that with some kind of evidence.

I don't think any of the dealers has much of a clue about the catcode settings, they just bang on a Y-piece, sling the catcode plug and take your money.

I would guess that the BB-Power bridge for an open pipe would be the one to use if you have a Remus. That links three of the catcode sockets.

 

[cookie]

I don't think any of the dealers has much of a clue about the catcode settings, they just bang on a Y-piece, sling the catcode plug and take your money.

i think you're right there

I would guess that the BB-Power bridge for an open pipe would be the one to use if you have a Remus. That links three of the catcode sockets.

but wrong there. this is the link [BB chip, 1150 single spark] and it's across 2 pins only 30 & 87A a la steptoe.

 

[alpmeister]

Sometimes too much info is just as bad as none! Can someone give me a definative answer, I have a 1997 German 1100GS, standard can no mods to engine at all, no Remus, Y piece nothing. It surges like many GSs do and I want to cure it. It has a pink coloured cat code plug. The question is this, do I

1. Leave well alone?
2. Remove the cat code plug and thats it?
3. Remove the cat code plug and reset the motronic system?
4. Remove the cat code plug, add a jumper lead (in which holes please) and reset the motronic system?
5. Non of the above.

Rest assured I have looked at many threads and I am confused, please help.

 

[cookie]

Probably due to the variability of components in your Motronic hardware

i rather suspect it was actually

 

[(RIP) Kaister]

back to basics - and do some research

http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/R11inj-surging-fixes.shtml

If you have an aftermarket system installed, like my Staintune, your options expand.

Here's the bottom line: The STOCK "with CCP" configuration gives the best OVERALL performance/mileage combo. Although surging (prior to "Zero=Zero") could be detected, this stock combination is the BEST compromise, in my opinion. Without a doubt, it is also LEGAL and safe for a catalytic converter.

I evaluated seven (7) different map configurations on my R1100RS. GS and R folks might experience differences due to compression ratios and cam timing.

BTW: CCP connections were made to configure the Motronic unit in accordance with BMW data. I made up a four-wire jumper connector with spade terminals so I wouldn't have to buy all the different CCPs. Connection pins are related to the pin numbers you will observe on the pin-side of your CCP. Early "Beta" pre-production R1100RSs were "hard wired" for catalytic converters, and have no CCP socket.

1. R1100RS without cat, no CCP connections, CO pot installed:

* Best overall power
* No surging
* Significantly higher emissions
* Converter damage likely
* Poor fuel consumption

2. R1100RS with Golden Yellow CCP, 30-87 connections, no CO pot

* Performance very close to #1
* Very slight surging
* Low emissions
* Better fuel consumption than #1

3. R1100RS with CCP, 30-87 connections, with CO pot (to observe if pot can be coinstalled with O2 sensor)

* Performance same as #2
* Same emissions
* CO pot has no effect, appears to be ignored

4. R1100RS - CH (Switzerland) with cat, Dove Blue CCP, 30-86-87a connections, no CO pot

* Breaks up under hard throttle; won't full beyond 7000rpm
* More surging than #2
* Performance SUCKS!

5. R1100GS without cat, Beige CCP, 30-87a connections, no CO pot

* OK midrange power; relatively weak top end
* Defaulted to 1.8% (because of no CO pot)
* No surging

6. R1100GS with cat, Rose Pink CCP, 30-87-87a connections, no CO pot

* Weak mid range power, weaker than #5
* Significant surging

(Note: This CCP when matched with GS Intake Tubes (see http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/R11pwmod.shtml) can significantly improve mid range torque on RTs and RSs)

7. R1100GS - CH (Switzerland) with cat, Mahogany Brown CCP, 30-86-87-87a connections, no CO pot

* Starts, but won't idle unless throttle is held open. I did not ride my bike in this configuration.
* UNRIDEABLE!

Conclusions:

* Config #1 is best for power, has high emissions, increases fuel consumption (O2 sensor seems ignored or overpowered--no closed loop) and will probably damage a catalytic converter. Use only with non-cat exhaust system.
* Config #2 is very close the #1 in performance, has some surging, low emissions, better fuel consumption, and will work with or without a converter.
* No other CCP configuration will work acceptably in an R1100RS. It would be interesting to observe the performance of an R1100GS with RS mapping.
* The CO pot, if installed with a "with cat CCP", is ignored. YOUR money is wasted!
* If the CCP is removed, and the CO pot is not installed, the "1111" CO pot fault is set, and the Motronic control unit defaults to 1.8% CO value.
* It is IMPERATIVE when making ANY Motronic changes to clear faults by removing and then reinstalling fuse #5, and to be safe, fuse #6

 

[Le singe]

Interesting test results.
My engine is now R1100RS specification,and,after testing all the options with jump wires,I've arrived at the same conclusion as him.
Mine runs best as per the number 1 option,but was a bit more 'hesitant' with the number 2 option than he found.
The plugs are a shade too sooty,but I'll live with it until the next stage of tune is completed.

 

[Bryn]

It's probably in the previous posts somewhere, but I'm a lazy git ...

Standard 1150.. No Cat code plug.. will the 3" bit of wire help stop the surging?

Noticed a marked improvement a while ago with y piece and standard can, but put the cat back on as the backfires got on my T*ts

Anyone know?

Cheers Bryn

 

[Steptoe]

it also varies if you've a sheepskin seat cover fitted and extra lights -

 

[Bryn]

C'mon Neil, giz a straight answer!

 

[Droopy Dick]

Silly question, perhaps, but where can you buy these spade connectors?

I feel that simply pushing soldered bare ends into the 'socket' isn't ideal.

Is it a Halfords or Maplin job?

 

[cookie]

Silly question, perhaps, but where can you buy these spade connectors?

I feel that simply pushing soldered bare ends into the 'socket' isn't ideal.

Is it a Halfords or Maplin job?

i think you want the RM4s.

i guess many motoring shops sell them in little overpriced packets too. may be more convenient.

sometimes these crimps come with little tangs sticking out of the side. you may need to cut these off before they fit the sockets.

oh, and you'll need a crimper as well of course.

i have loads of blade crimps lying around which work well. anyone who wants a link made up & sent, just PM me.

 

[cookie]

my mistake, they seem to be the larger RM6 terminals.