Stiff Ignition Switch

retardedignition

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The ignition switch on my 2008 GSA has started to stiffen up. I'm having to play with the key to get it to turn on, and operating the steering lock is also becoming a pain. I've applied plenty to ACF-50 without too much change to the situation.

Has any one had this problem before or are there any bits of the mechanism that can suffer from corrosion, that might need a bit of attention.

TA

Rob
 
Don't have that problem and don't know what could cause it but as a 2008 its probably still under warranty so let the dealer fix it out. I doubt there is much more you can do that you have already done anyway.
 
I had a problem recently on my 2006 GS where I had difficulty in getting the key into the slot. Turned out that the very tip of the key was slightly 'bent'. Straigghtened it with apair of pliers and al was hunky dory.

Chips
 
The ignition switch on my 2008 GSA has started to stiffen up. I'm having to play with the key to get it to turn on, and operating the steering lock is also becoming a pain. I've applied plenty to ACF-50 without too much change to the situation.

Has any one had this problem before or are there any bits of the mechanism that can suffer from corrosion, that might need a bit of attention.

TA

Rob

ACF50 is unlikely to help on a stiff lock and will probably gum it up more long term. If you want to do the job properly, lock cleaner followed by a lock lubricant (normally graphite based) is the answer.
 
I personally wouldn't use ACF-50 to lubricate a lock barrel.

I cleaned mine out with brake cleaner(the key itself was very dirty) and then put sewing machine oil on the key and inserted that. You don't want to flood the lock cylinder with oil - it'll just gum everything up, I'd have thought.

My ignition's now back to its smooth self and the key comes out clean.

All, of course IMHO and IME.
 
Something is stiff, so I have pumped half a pint of sticky gloop into it.......

Good luck! :thumb

Dear Wapping

As the application notes on the ACF-50 tin say "Microswitches, solenoids, motors, pc boards, throttle cables, wheel hubs, etc. Hardly the realm of sticky gloop. My reservations against using mineral/solvent based products like WD40 were not knowing their effect on seals, etc that might be hidden in the depths of the ignition switch.

If it's safe enough to coat the working parts of a helicopter, then I didn't think I was being that reckless in trying a small amount on a problem ignition switch - hardly half a pint!

I'll keep the forum posted on any improvements.

Oh and by the way thanks for the Good Luck wish. :rob

TA

Rob
 
I seem to recall Shep had a problem with his ignition switch and it ended up being replaced, not simple or cheap I believe. You might want to ask a dealer before doing something that BMW will be able to claim invalidates your warranty.
 
I've applied plenty to ACF-50 without too much change to the situation.

I translated 'plenty' as half a pint... not as, 'a small amount' ;)

If it is becoming very stiff, the problem is perhaps likely to be more mechanical (maybe with corrosion) than simple corrosion on its own. Several bods have had a similar problem, which (sometimes) required the ignition being replaced.

Yours is an ex off-road school bike, is it not? I wonder how much crud went down the barrel during its time with them?

Whatever you do, do not be tempted to force it. I have seen keys snapped and busted barrels, which are then very tedious to deal with.

Here's old Shep's tale and the advice given:

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31450&highlight=ignition

There are other threads with more 'mechanical' issues. A Search will turn them up.
 
I too am having the exact same problem with my 12000 miles 2009 GSA - im sometimes on the point of giving up when it finally decides to let me turn it off or on. The dealer has this problem as part of an exhaustive list and i should be hearing the outcome tommorow.

7'' of snow outside (again!:blast) prevents me from going far anyway.

I'll let you know how i get on unless you get it sorted before then.
 
Dear Wapping

As the application notes on the ACF-50 tin say "Microswitches, solenoids, motors, pc boards, throttle cables, wheel hubs, etc. Hardly the realm of sticky gloop.

I notice no mention of lock mechanisms. :D

Locks don't like oil, wd40 or ACF type lubricants. Seems fine at first then all the grit and dirt sticks inside.

There is a lock lubricant. I've a bottle on the shelf and on the application notes it states, Locks. :D
 
I translated 'plenty' as half a pint... not as, 'a small amount' ;)

If it is becoming very stiff, the problem is perhaps likely to be more mechanical (maybe with corrosion) than simple corrosion on its own. Several bods have had a similar problem, which (sometimes) required the ignition being replaced.

Yours is an ex off-road school bike, is it not? I wonder how much crud went down the barrel during its time with them?

Whatever you do, do not be tempted to force it. I have seen keys snapped and busted barrels, which are then very tedious to deal with.

Here's old Shep's tale and the advice given:

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31450&highlight=ignition

There are other threads with more 'mechanical' issues. A Search will turn them up.

Dear Wapping

Thanks very much for the pointers - really appreciated. The ignition switch was only behaving noticably different since the last batch of snow and heavily salted roads, however I do take your point regarding the crud from the off road school. There was enough to fill a flower basket around the battery - LOL.

Thanks once again

Rob
(A son of Shadwell - north of the Highway)
 
The ignition switch was only behaving noticably different since the last batch of snow and heavily salted roads, however I do take your point regarding the crud from the off road school. There was enough to fill a flower basket around the battery

As St Eptoe points out, ACF-50 is not designed to go into locks, which will gum at the smallest opportunity.

If you bike is kept outside, I wonder if perhaps the lock wasn't frozen or partly frozen?

The ignition barrel is a b'sted to get out, as it is secured by security bolts. It is possible to drill them out if you are patient. If not and if the ignition really is sticking, some of the stuff Steptoe is suggesting may help. It is probably graphite based, so very slippery.

Failing that, and if it's definitely sticking, get BUMW to take it out and clean / replace it if necessary. You can replace the security bolts with suitably sized Allen bolts, see a couple of threads. BuMW may be reluctant to do that, so buy them yourself and ask them to fit them.
 
I too am having the exact same problem with my 12000 miles 2009 GSA - im sometimes on the point of giving up when it finally decides to let me turn it off or on. The dealer has this problem as part of an exhaustive list and i should be hearing the outcome tommorow.

Exhaustive for the dealer no doubt.
 
:jes

.......and us ;)

Just a follow up on this one.

I called in to SBW today for them to have a look at the ignition switch, particularly as the warranty runs out soon. They agreed the unit was faulty, so it is booked in for replacement (along with the fuel pump rely) next Saturday.

Interestingly the guy showed me one which had been replaced recently. The underside of the unit has a cylindrical bolt which engages in a hole in the headstock area when you lock the steering. This is normally packed with grease, however on the unit he showed me the assembly was bone dry. I'm not sure how easy it is to get a visual inspection on the mechanism, but it's definately worth a check if you are concerned about the salt and grit getting thrown up there.

Regards

Rob
 
And don't forget to remove your key, and even cover the hole wit sumpin when you're washing your bike! Every little bit helps. And see the other thread about blank LCD and irregular starting. There's microswitches in there, as opposed to your normal sliding contacts....
Cheers, Boot.
 


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