Stolen GS 1150's

  • Thread starter Thread starter Redotto
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Redotto

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Had my bike stolen again. Only been back in my filthy mitts for 10 days and been had away despite being in a locked garage with chain and disk lock, CCTV (f***ing useless).

It was found before I knew it was gone and happily only the ignition wires are ripped out.

I am told that this is a design flaw on the 1150 (possibly others) as the ignition wire is readily accessible and all you need to do is yank it out and wind the wires together.

It occurred to me (and Phil from Euroclassics) that someone on here probably has a clever idea or has relocated the ignition and could offer some insight or tips.

Over to you...with grateful thanks in advance

PS yes I am moving
PPS not far enough as it is still in this country but hey
 
Ground anchor and a big feck off chaing through the frame.

About as good as your going to get, even if they can't start it they can still wheel it away.
 
Good to hear you got it back so soon, but out of interest what did they do about the steering lock? Getting the wires off to start the bike is one thing, but if the steering's locked how could they ride it away? Or did they have it away in a van, in which case hot-wiring it when it can't be ridden seems a bit pointless.
 
Good to hear you got it back so soon, but out of interest what did they do about the steering lock? Getting the wires off to start the bike is one thing, but if the steering's locked how could they ride it away? Or did they have it away in a van, in which case hot-wiring it when it can't be ridden seems a bit pointless.

Good point, the steering lock is probably broken. Can't remember if I had put it on as it is a bit sticky...
Made light work of an Oxford disk lock and chain however.
 
There are blank shotgun cartridge traps available that may work...I have no idea about the legallity of them but.......:augie

Baby monitor as well? hidden away but so you can still hear? I can't imagine that they managed to do the lock and chain silently...unless it was one of the older stylee ones with the barrel type key that you can open with a marker pen?? :blast
 
Garage Defender maybe ?

I have one fitted to my garage, stops them being able to open the door, due to a locking T bar along the bottom edge of the door. I bought my one from B & Q.
Further to the issue of starting the bike, there are 2 rubber blanking plugs on the cylinders on the 1200's. I know that the bike won't run if you remove these, are the 1150's the same ? You can take these things off, and put them back on in seconds.
 
I have one fitted to my garage, stops them being able to open the door, due to a locking T bar along the bottom edge of the door. I bought my one from B & Q.
Further to the issue of starting the bike, there are 2 rubber blanking plugs on the cylinders on the 1200's. I know that the bike won't run if you remove these, are the 1150's the same ? You can take these things off, and put them back on in seconds.

EDIT.....I was going to post another couple of ways of doing it, but it's probably not a wise move to say how a lot of people disable their bike in 3 seconds flat for security :blast
 
No alarm on my bike.. keep it round the back of my house.. nicely out of sight.

when I have to go away for more than a few days i immobilise it very simply... I take the fuse out.

disc lock on the front wheel. Cover on. thats it.
 
No alarm on my bike.. keep it round the back of my house.. nicely out of sight.

when I have to go away for more than a few days i immobilise it very simply... I take the fuse out.

disc lock on the front wheel. Cover on. thats it.

sorry where did you say you live?:D
 
I am told that this is a design flaw on the 1150 (possibly others) as the ignition wire is readily accessible and all you need to do is yank it out and wind the wires together.

If someone has to rip the ignition wires out to start a GS they aren't familier with the GS -

You can start one in seconds if you know what your doing. And i've demonstrated how easy at many GS events includes undoing the steering lock ( which are made of chocolate).

There is a very simple way to disable a GS that involves no mechanical skills, but i'm not going to post it on the internet - I've shown a lot of my customers. But it won't stop anyone from chucking it in a van.
My own bike has a fuel pump cut out operated by a security key located at the side of the fuse/relay box. But i haven't used it for years. I just use the simple method i've mentioned.

Oh, ands steering locks are
 
Very little you can do to stop them taking the bike. To make the hot wiring that much harder, which is as you say incredibly easy to do, I normally disconnect the battery negative terminal (locking seat on my 850r, takes 30 seconds to do). I intend to fit a switch on the negative terminal at some point, so just a case of taking the seat off, set the switch to off, and clicking the seat back into place, will take about 3 seconds.
Of course, doesn't stop anyone picking the thing up and sticking it in a van.
Best we can do is make it as inconvenient as possible.

Matt
 
The consensus seems to be a fuel pump switch plus the ground anchor when at home. I also still like the idea of moving the ignition barrel and cable to make it less accessible. Has anyone any thoughts on good places to mount it, preferably with experience as Phil sucks his teeth something rotten whenever we discuss it :)
 
If you have a garage and it's at your house include it in the house security system.

Don't depend on beams, use perimeter devices such as mag switches, impact sensors etc. You'll know they are trying to knick your bike before they are even inside and there's always the optimists belief that the alarm going off before they gain entry will scare them away.
 
Hot wiring ignition switch

I had a very similar experience when my DrBig was stolen a few years back. The tea leaf had just pulled up the wires to the ignition and had used a lighter to bare the wires to hotwire it.

I wanted to protect against this for the future, so what I did was:

Went to a hydrolics supplier and bought a short length of fat braided hose. I took the metal braiding off and threaded the ignition switch wires through it, I then glued the end of the braid to the ignition switch with metal loaded epoxy resin.

After doing this there was no access to the wires from the switch.
 


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