Strip Down and Service New to me GS

No, they are different. The Brake circuit has Dot 4 standard fluid and the Clutch has Hyspin V10 which is mineral based. Very important that you get the correct fluid for the clutch. I got mine from Nippy Normans at a price of £17.70 plus shipping
That is why I was asking :D

You would not believe how many people do put DOT 3 or 4 Clutch fluid in the 1200 Hexheads
 
Ah thanks for the tip on the motors...I'll keep an eye out out those, when I take the unit out and test the motor.
Much appreciated (y)
 
Great job looks excellent. Great to go through it like you have then you know it’s all good.

Out of interest on the brake caliper stainless mounting bolts. What torque are you using? Reason I ask is I’m always of the opinion torque on the important parts need to be dry connection. However for dissimilar metal corrosion you have to use a barrier. So what torque offset did you use for them out of interest?

I’ve stainless bolts on a lot of the fairing and engine cover but was a bit apprehensive on swapping like the brakes. So keen to get your thoughts.

Keep up the updates and pics great to see and read.

Thanks
Mark
 
Hi Mark,
I used 24nm on the bolts and used “Tef Gel” on the threads, as you are correct in as much as “electrolytic corrosion” is possible. I stay away from copper grease on assembly of dissimilar metals and use Tef Gel. Copper grease is excellent on many applications and it has a place on my garage shelf. I worked in the marine industry for many years and have seen aluminium turn to powder if the conditions are right (or wrong) so it’s a personal preference on whether to assemble dry or not. It’s also worth mentioning that you could over tighten if you use an anti seize compound, so again caution is always advised.
Sorry for being a little grey on this, but read as much information as you can and make your choice.
Cheers AJ
 
I will add that I changed one bolt at a time and I have experienced no issues. Remember this components have been well engineered with a generous safety factor, so I was comfortable changing the bolts.
The other option is to completely strip the callipers which I e also done in the past and renew the bolts then. 👍
 
Luckily for me it is really clean..just a careful clean and protective spray after.
 
Hi Mark,
I used 24nm on the bolts and used “Tef Gel” on the threads, as you are correct in as much as “electrolytic corrosion” is possible. I stay away from copper grease on assembly of dissimilar metals and use Tef Gel. Copper grease is excellent on many applications and it has a place on my garage shelf. I worked in the marine industry for many years and have seen aluminium turn to powder if the conditions are right (or wrong) so it’s a personal preference on whether to assemble dry or not. It’s also worth mentioning that you could over tighten if you use an anti seize compound, so again caution is always advised.
Sorry for being a little grey on this, but read as much information as you can and make your choice.
Cheers AJ
Yes, I’m same work in the offshore and corrosion is the Bain of my life. Connectors have been a big issue.

Good method, one at a time. You just going by feel on them?

Thanks
 
Yea, sometimes feel and sometimes Torque values...the caliper bolts were 24NM which is typical value for a M8.
Cheers AJ
 
Did you use Brake and clutch fluid in the Clutch circuit ????

You can replace the Motor with one from a Mk9 Fiesta I've done it a couple of times
The MK 9 is 2017 onwards? and is the motor grey? ive seen a few on ebay worth getting as they are cheap and much newer motors than mine. Cheers (y)
 
The MK 9 is 2017 onwards? and is the motor grey? ive seen a few on ebay worth getting as they are cheap and much newer motors than mine. Cheers (y)
Check this part Number 4-CV21-2C405


Mk 7 fiesta apparently
 
Check this part Number 4-CV21-2C405


Mk 7 fiesta apparently
Thanks for the info...I'll get on it and fingers crossed (y)
 
Starbrite liquid electrical tape (dielectric paint) from yacht chandlers can also be used on dissimilar metal fastener threads, drop the tightening torque down by 10% to allow for its lubricating effect.

 
Finally getting somewhere.

Colour changed to yellow from its original misery grey/green.

Pipes polished as best I can (they are quite pitted, but I think they look ok), on the last stretch now, just got the rear wheel hub to paint and sort the wiring and a few little other odds and sods.IMG_0591.jpeg
 
The yellow is a great colour...a very good friend of mine has an 2004 GS i yellow in mint condition, stunning!
Doing a great job!
 
Wheels back on and just a few things left to button up before it’s finished.

I was going to respect the rear hub, but I’ve decided to cut my losses and live with it for now (it’s not too bad tbh).

Big transformation over how I bought it

IMG_0531.jpeg
 

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