stripped Engine bolt... help!

Bikergary

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I've done something vert stupid, I have managed (somehow, don't know how normally very careful) to strip the thread on an engine bolt and looking for advise.
The bolt in question is the bolt on the right hand side near the rear of the cyclinder, It was stipped either when taking off or putting on my engine bars. looks like I stripped it when putting on previously as there is thread at both ends but not in the middle so looks like i over tightened it.
I need to know where I can get another one from, but longer than the standard. The bolt I think is a 10 mill but not sure and 55Mill long. Anyone any ideas,
It's pretty secure as it screwed in and will oly come out if you unbolt it but I can't tighten it.
 

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Are you sure it's just the bolt? As it is steel and the engine is aluminium. I think I've answered my own question, you've stripped the thread on the engine bars. Cap head bolts are easy to get hold of, any engineering supplier, perhaps you have a Cromwell near you?

But, if you can't tighten it, you might have stripped the thread in the engine,
Might be inclined to leave it alone!
 
The thread will be slightly longer than the bolt - get the next size length (+5mm) and try that. Obviously don't torque it down hard - just enough to seat the bolt is all you'll manage.
 
You may have done exactly what I did when fitting my H&B bars. My bolt caught on the bars as I was screwing it in and this damaged the threads. Any decent fastener supplier will have them in stock, to be safe I would run a tap into the bolt hole just to make sure the internal threads are ok and there is no crap in there.
 
do you know if it's a 10mm or something else, can't really take it out and take it to the garage to check, don't want the enging to fall out on the way there :-)
 
Bikergary said:
do you know if it's a 10mm or something else, can't really take it out and take it to the garage to check, don't want the enging to fall out on the way there :-)

unless someone happens to know, you'll have to put a jack under the engine and take the bolt out & check. if it's M10 there are at least 2 common thread pitches.
 
Biker Gary...

Look. :nenau :nenau Congrats you have stripped the Thread. No good Trying this or that or even Baking Scones!! Take the Bolt out. You may need help, here? Down here ( Australia) we have a product called Heli- Coil. Its a new thread insert that fits the bolt in Question?
1st. though? Is the Bolt the correct lenght? Check by inserting a small wire into the hole and check? It's ok? Right take that bolt to your suplier.They will suply all that is required for you new Hole/ Thread. Even a Tap..?. (for cutting the New Thread into your new drilled hole. Not for the Bathroom)! An Engineer supplier will tell you what to do. DO it and do it propper! Only a couple of Quid? My GS 1100 has 2. ..Bloody Thread paste/Glue on everything! When I Loosen a bolt it Pulls the Thread out. Yes the Last owner was a Person without a Tention Wrench? Another story. Hey don't worry its really not that bad. You can fix it, easy. So long as you can Drill a Good clean hole for the new thread. Then you Tap ( thread cut) the new hole with the suplied Special Tap. It works and does a good easy job? A Fitter like me could give you a Hand. :nono BUY A TENTION WRENCH while your there? Money well spent. BIGJim Tasmania. Don't cry? :nenau :nenau
 
above post makes some good points,

i just noticed you have crash bars, check you have the right length fixing bolts. IIRC they should be longer than standard to allow for the fact that the heads are no longer recessed.

you should still helicoil it though.

you could try baking doughnuts. it won't help, but they are much nicer than scones :D
 
I'm not familiar with the 1100, but I did a similar thing on my 12 recently. Actually one of the small (M6?) bolts holding the centre section of the engine bars sheared after a drop. That bolt in the picture looks more like an M6 to me.

Anyway upshot is that I thought the thread in the front subframe had stripped, but it turned out that the thread wasn't in the frame itself, there was a captive nut. So I whacked out the old nut and bodged in a new one.

It;s worth checking if the design is similar on your bike before going and buying helicoil kits etc :)

Also, if it's an M6 bolt, it's not going to be holding the engine in the frame. Obviously you have to judge for yourself but the worst that would probably happen if you ride it is that the engine bars wobble from side to side.
 
Firstly, the socket cap bolt you require is an M6 thread and the best way to find the length you need is to push a piece of wire to the bottom of the threaded hole and simply measure it. Make sure you allow for the thickness of the engine-bar bracket. Also, make sure that your new bolt isn't so long that it 'bottoms out' otherwise you'll be back to square one! :eek

Secondly, as the steel bolt is screwed into an alloy thread, you'll need a 'Heli-Coil' to repair the stripped thread. Anything else you try is unlikely to provide such a permanent and strong fixing. Also, the 'Heli-Coil' thread is just like a new one and can be used over and over again (provided you don't over-tighten the bolt!) ;)

Good luck, Red-Devil :thumb
 
Steptoe said:
M6 is bolt size, not the thread pitch . :thumb
.. any idea what the thread pitch is? I know the length needs to be 55mm if you know the pitch I can order one up soon.

Sorry for not getting back to all your responses, got sent to South Africa for a couple of weeks and only got back this morning.

I was thinking of the heli-coil but thought running a thread cutter (something like that, can't remeber the right name) could sort it, as it feels like there is thread there as it screws in OK, it's just when it gets to the stripped part of the bolt it slips.
 
Helicoil size

The size for the Helicoil to suit the bolt is:
M10x1.5
I had stripped the thread at the gearbox mount and repaired it with a Helicoil, or there is another brand called Recoil which is basically the same,
The full kit is not cheap, was $130 Au, luckily I got it at Trade price being a mechanic.
The kits come with the TAP,10 thread repairs, and the fittment tool, the onlt thing is that you need to buy a deill bit 10.4mm or 13/32
Hope this helps.
 
Hint.

Socket Headed Cap Screws are sized by thread diameter, thread pitch and length (not including the head).
As a rule, the Allen Key used to turn the SHCS is the next size down from the thread. ie. M10x1.5 uses an 8mm Allen Key. M8x1.25 uses a 6mm Allen Key. M6x1.0 uses a 5mm Allen Key, etc.
Where's Didcot, as I have full Metric Helicoil repair kit. And I'm cheap!! The Guinness fund needs replenishing.
 
1st things first, I need a new bolt (or two) so I can confirm the thread... must get off my ass and do it :D

Didcot is a lovely little town :rolleyes: just south of Oxford
 


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