Enrol in a Gynacological class asap Recommended!
Stuttering under load
- Thread starter darrenptalbot
- Start date
darrenptalbot
Registered user
Looks like a few more days on teh bus then. Bugger 
Jesus christ, what a malarky.
Please don't follow that video. I'll do a picture "how to change a fuel filter".
Job done start to finish (that's cover bolted in place at the start to cover bolted back in place with a new filter installed) in 4 minutes with just a screwdriver and a ratchet to undo the nuts on the cover.
darrenptalbot
Registered user
Jesus christ, what a malarky.
I'll do a picture "how to change a fuel filter".
Job done start to finish in 4 minutes with just a screwdriver and a ratchet to undo the nuts on the cover.
I like the sound of that - yes please!
If I hadn't snapped the clutch arm last night
I'd be booking it in and riding it down for you to do ....Is there an easy 'Steptoe' way to change the clutch arm too?
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Jesus christ, what a malarky.
I did try to tell him, Steppers LOL
Darren Where did the arm break? right in at the pivot or out near the end?
darrenptalbot
Registered user
Dont worry, I was going for your approach, not the bad guitar playing version!
It snapped halfway between the pivot and the end ....
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Just an Idea if you were lucky enough to have the outer bit that broke off
In B and Q they used to sell steel tube about 30 inches long with an ID of 6 8 10 or 12 mm for about 3 quid
Take your bit that you can carry, down and get a bit of tube near the size and a pack of JB Quick or american spelling "Kwik"
cut about 3 inches off steel tube
Mix up JB Quick paste inside tube stick inch and an arf thru the hole onto the remaining clutch arm stub and hold for a couple of minutes till it goes off (obviously try and keep outer end relatively clear of goo)
make up some more JB Quick paste the outer bit of the arm and stick in tube with cable end bit facing the correct way
Might do you as a temp repair till you have nicer weather to do the arm swap or take it down to steppers
darrenptalbot
Registered user
I'll have a look and see if I've got enough stub left on the attached bit. Thanks 
I'll have a look and see if I've got enough stub left on the attached bit. Thanks
It is possible to change the clutch arm with the swingarm in situ. Remove the rear wheel and shock, have a good look at what needs to happen and the impossible looking bolt that the clutch arm pivots on, assemble your finest tools and be prepared to customise them. I used a long combination spanner, ground thinner and bent, a long piece of stiff wire and some super long nose pliers.
If you drop the bolt down behind the swingarm you're knackered and you'll have to remove the swingarm but it costs nothing to try - you'll either manage or you'll be removing the swingarm
darrenptalbot
Registered user
I'm not sure I want to ask, but how much of a sh1t is it to remove the swingarm? 
I'm not sure I want to ask, but how much of a sh1t is it to remove the swingarm?
It's not that difficult, just a bit long winded. You need to remove the paralever pinions which the final drive pivots on (plenty of heat required to soften the loctite), remove the final drive and remove the swing arm pinions (repeat of the paralever pinions).
A workshop manual will be a help and there's lots on here if you have a search.
Here's a thread for starters: http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=180313
darrenptalbot
Registered user
Thanks Matt, I'll read it on the bus this morning .....
Thanks Matt, I'll read it on the bus this morning .....
If you do end up having to take the swingarm off, treat it as a learning experience (and a good opportunity to check / replace your paralever bearings)
I had to take my swingarm off (twice) within a month of buying the bike
darrenptalbot
Registered user
If you do end up having to take the swingarm off, treat it as a learning experience (and a good opportunity to check / replace your paralever bearings)
I had to take my swingarm off (twice) within a month of buying the bike
Ouch! I don't have a workshop, so will be doing it outside. Hoping for good (dry) weather ......
darrenptalbot
Registered user
FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK 
The bolt holding the arm in has snapped!
What is the hex wrench size for the swingarm?
The bolt holding the arm in has snapped!
What is the hex wrench size for the swingarm?
FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK
The bolt holding the arm in has snapped!
What is the hex wrench size for the swingarm?
Bugger. That's a pain in the arse.
Hang on, I'll have to pop to the garage...
Big Nut 30mm Allen socket 12mm
Loads and LOADS of heat to melt the loctite
Good Luck
Loads and LOADS of heat to melt the loctite
Good Luck
It's 12mm but you'll need a hex bit in a socket wrench.
However before you do anything...
STOP
Read up on this before you attack it. You can't just unbolt the swingarm, you need to remove the FD first and then the swingarm. However MOST IMPORTANTLY - you must use plenty of heat to soften the locktite that holds the pinions in place. There's loads on here about it in addition to the thread I noted earlier - search for 'paralever'.
Edit: the Dr beat me to it...
However before you do anything...
STOP
Read up on this before you attack it. You can't just unbolt the swingarm, you need to remove the FD first and then the swingarm. However MOST IMPORTANTLY - you must use plenty of heat to soften the locktite that holds the pinions in place. There's loads on here about it in addition to the thread I noted earlier - search for 'paralever'.
Edit: the Dr beat me to it...
darrenptalbot
Registered user
Thanks guys. Busy reading now ......
FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK
The bolt holding the arm in has snapped!
What is the hex wrench size for the swingarm?
The last three i've done have also snapped. They're getting to that age.
Lift the rear subframe and drill out what's left of the bolt from the other end of the bolt on the outside of the case - if you know what i mean = The hole the bolt screws into goes all the way through the gearbox case . Have fun..
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