Sump guard mounts

mylovelyhorse

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Afternoon all,

Two of the four sump guard mounts on my 1999 R1150GS have sheared away from the underside of the engine. As they're a bit Kerry Packered now, I thought I'd scrape the residue off the bottom of the engine, buy some new ones & just araldite them into place.

Is this the best way to go?
 
Araldite wont work, it might hold it on, but as soon as something shock loads it, i.e being hit, itll just fall off. Epoxy resins and glues arent really the way to go with that i dont think.

easiest way would be to get it welded back on.

There are some low temperature alloy home weld kits that you can get that "might" do the job, but i would suggest taking it to a pro instead.

The home weld kits just need you to use a small blow torch as it melts at only a couple of hundred degrees rather than 1000 or so. but correspondingly the strength will never be the same.

Other way might be to cunning drill and tap them back in?
 
They are only a rubber bobbin with a thread bonded top and bottom. A couple of quid each, even from BMW.

Grab what's left with some mole-grips and turn them out, then replace.
 
Ahh, didn't realise they were threaded top and bottom. Right, they'll get replaced no probs. Ta.

If you dont ride offroad, replace them with solid allen bolts, it will give more weather / gravel protection without the other issues...

I have a collection of a few dozen of the little monsters, recently corrected by fitting GSA shocks and other mods...

With my weight I found that the sump grounded before the shocks bottomed, the little rubbers stood no chance...
Welsh
 
So, I set about working on these broken sump guard mounts.

I purchased the appropriate new parts form those jolly chaps at Motorworks and set about changing old for new. Only I can't.

The new bobbins (for want of a better word) are round rubber blocks with a threaded bolt above and below, to allow them to be screwed into a hole on the bottom of the sump. The old ones appear to have been either equipped with a metal plate to carry that bolt on the sump side or they were somehow glued to the bottom of the machine. RealOEM shows a different story on the parts display.

I cannot find any evidence of a threaded bolt sunk into the sump on either mounting point. Any thought on how this may be rectified?

Illustration being the best way to describe things, here is (to quote a friend) 1,000 words in .jpg format for each of the mounts:

front_right.jpg


rear_left.jpg


Your advice would be much appreciated.
 
OMG !! thats a lot of heat youve used !! Heating expands metal so you only want to heat the alli sump, looks like youve used a blow torch !!
The remaining metal disc in the pic. was bonded to the rubber shock pad.
The metal must be attached to a bolt which is screwed into the sump casing. Its probably well siezed, try some penetrating / releasing oil and a few 'gentle' taps with a hammer on the flat of the round disc, this will shock the threads, then 'carefully' grab disc with pump pliers or mole grips and turn anti clockwise. if it strips the threads you can hellicoil to repair, if the disc breaks off the bolt, it will need drilling out and re-tapping.. Either way it has to come out to fit a new one as I dont believe you can match the factory bonding of rubber to steel !! Hope this helps, maybe someone out there knows more !!
:nenau
 
mounts

That is the remains of the rubber and the washer is what the bolt is attached to. This will be tight, get a small pair of steelsons from a tool shop and grip the washer with these they do not slip and will grip better than anything else. Desperate measures for a desperate problem, these things have got me out of many hopeless situations. Including this one on my K.
Dave (I hate christmas ) GS.
 
Soak the lot with plusgas or even diesel, let it fester for a while, then have at them with good quality mole grips or a stillson as davegs says, mine all look like that but as my bike has what I think are BMWs engine bars. which hold the sump guard on fine, so I dont need to have the bobbins with nuts on them, the rubber part is still there.
Stewart
 


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