Suspension for RTW Trip

[bowser]

Then buy a honda. If u r contemplating a rtw trip the lc is the last bike I would take.
I love my lc but fact remains if is likely to go wrong and parts will be difficult outside of Europe. Just Saying

I think personally that can be said of most modern bikes, the biggest issues are electrical rather than mechanical, if you have an electrical problem with any modern bike then its generally a computer first and access to dealer software required.

Its the world we are in now.

But there is no reason why a BMW should be any worse than a honda or a yam they all suffer from the same basic problems on a long term ride with probably less than optimal conditions. For example all modern switch gear is micro switch's rather than good old fashioned mechanical ones with contacts and stuff you can solder and MacGyver, I can remember taking apart clocks on an old R100 and re tracing the pcb with a "silver wiring pen" and it worked for years after no problem at all, where as if you have a problem with the lcd screen your dead in the water without a new one, its not a complaint or reflection on an LC just modern bikes in general they are more reliable but when they go wrong they really go wrong and a lot of the time fixing it yourself is not an option. At least with a more modern bike, if something does need replacing you can get hold of the replacement part (at a cost) and get it shipped just about anywhere you need it. Not sure I would be so keen on going somewhere long distance on my 640Adv as there are a whole raft of parts for it just no longer available from KTM, great for anywhere there is breakdown assistance and recovery, TET round Europe no problem but anywhere else further afield ? er nope

 

[OnHellas]

To the OP.

Where are you planning to go? Which continents? Which countries?
What type of roads do you think you might use? Tarmac? Dirt? How many miles has the standard suspension already done?

Research those countries re availability of BMW dealers.
Travel as light as possible.
Be open to sending stuff home....but try and start out with a small a load as you can.


In my experience standard stuff is OK. Be nice to your bike, nice to your kit.
If you have a problem it can be sorted and it’ll end up as a great part of the story.
Keep the bike serviced during the journey.

For what it’s worth, F800GS, 4 continents, 46 countries. 126,000 miles (34,000 miles with a sidecar).
Broke down in Alaska, punctures, a few little things. Usually ended up meeting someone nice/generous and got some great memories.

 

[stick]

Consider Wilbers also

Wilbers are a great choice along with the manual TT units . I have used the manual and ESA Wilbers both great set ups but run the TT Electronic now on the 1250.
As others have said , may be well to go manual to reduce any failures if it worries you.
You could always have your own units rebuilt prior to leaving as to give them a new start to eliminate any hiding issues.

 

[stick]

Sell the LC and buy a Yamaha t700 and spec it your needs. Simple with minimal electronics. Convert the wheels to tubeless and go

Nick Sanders has done several long trips inc South America - see you tube.

Two up full luggage , be like a tube journey at peak time , horrendous.
Gs is the man for the job , a pack hoss disguised as the Orient Express , the best choice .

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

Sell the LC and buy a Yamaha t700 and spec it your needs.

Simple with minimal electronics.

Convert the wheels to tubeless and go.

You will still need to upgrade the T700 suspension as it’s undersprung

 

[wilbjr21]

Another vote for Tractive from me.

 

[tanneman]

Familiarise yourself with the details of the replacement suspension. Some, like Wilbers, take your LC suspension, keep the electronic part of the shock and add their module with the spring to it. Tractive, I know, has a complete different setup. The problem with the electronics of the shock on the LC is that the connector is at the bottom. It is vulnerable to water ingress and damage. On the Tractive shocks this is moved to the top of the shock. Details like that can make or break it for you in the long run.

There is a guy at The Bike Shed that has ridden his LC GSA from Atlanta to Alaska to Argentina. Give him a shout. It is on YouTube too but I think you will have to contact them directly, https://bikeshedmoto.com/

 

[Dodger]

Guys,

Some excellent feedback, thank you. I will follow up on analogue Hyperpro and Tractiv systems.

I will leave the thread open as its recent just to see if anyone else chips in.

In the mean time thanks for your quality comments.

 

[Davey B]

Have a look at Nitron. I had it on my 1150GSA and I found it to be every bit as good as the Ohlins I had had previously. (I also have it on my Africa Twin...very happy with it)

https://www.nitron.co.uk/products/motorcycles

 

[knutk]

Regarding the ESA and it's durability:
The ESA shocks are just regular shocks of average quality, where the manual adjustment of basic shocks is replaced with electric adjustable actuators.

From what I have learned, it seems like most of the reported issues with the ESA shocks are of a mechanical nature, mainly leaks. This is a failure that has nothing to do with electronics. However, the electronics narrows down the amount of people that even dares to touch the system in case of any kind of problem.

If this was my challenge, I would go for the TT/Tractive option. The offer full integration with the bike electronics, and they have made the shocks physical more sturdy by using a larger diameter rod in the shocks = ability to handle heavier load.

The option to go for manual basic shocks might be worthy to consider. Not because the manual shocks will be more durable, but it will be easier to get help in case a problem should arise.

my 2c

 

[richie]

Get your wife training to ride, buy two Honda CRF 250 and off you go. Or two same bikes anyway.

 

[gspod]

Any updates on this?

 

[Denz0]

We have some very simple rules for a good suspension setup.
1 correct spring rate / SUG!
This is most important factor in the suspension 80% of the work is done by the spring. Traveling two Up on standard spring and you shock does 200% more work then it should. Not to mention of constant use of bum stop rubber.
Aftermarket suspension if not setup correctly could be worst than stock!

2 Even most expensive suspension needs servicing!
Don't expect much from 5 or 10 year old oil that gives less damping and tons of internal friction.
Shock doesn't have an oil filter.

3 Who would like get rid off high spec Dynamic ESA that can change damping setting in splits of the second( 80ms ) on the fly over something like YSS or Hyperpro? That is not even tuned nicely and cheaper models are not even consider high performance (emulsion shock).

I could understand if you go for TT or Touratech I think they are a bit quicker than stock in making dynamic changes and come with larger pistons (doesn't mean they have more damping )

Stock ESA shock can be tuned upgraded internally and sprong to individual needs for the fraction of the cost of any aftermarket suspension.
That also makes them more reliable and reduces seal drag.
Service using the right parts makes them rebuildable like any other aftermarket suspension.


Some pictures for entertainment.


Sent from my SM-G780G using Tapatalk

 

[Deleted account 250319001]

Thanks for that DenZO
Reassuring

 

[roundincircles]

GSA 1200 - 2017

I am planning a RTW trip with my wife and full luggage and considering an upgrade to the suspension. It currently has the electronic suspension which lifts the seat height etc. I have spoken to Ohlins who are suggesting a front and rear end upgrade, however the replacement will be an analogue system (Ohlins electronic system is double the price). I guess that would be fine as its no real hardship to wind up and down.

I am interested to hear if anyone has had experience in this area and what you would suggest.

Many thanks

One thing to consider is the ability of components to be repaired on route. Having said that I fitted Touratech esa and it works well and 'seems' robust.

I had component failure in a remote part of Peru which , potentially, could have ended a very expensive trip prematurely. Hence take key spares and wire wheels over cast wheels etc etc.

As has been mentioned your bike will have the same load over the whole trip so non esa with custom spring for preload etc make some sense. Aluminium panniers can be repaired and prevent damage to the bike when it gets dropped.

 

[kurienp]

On a long trip, keeping it stock has its advantages. For a 2017 GSA, I would just get it overhauled by Denz0 of this parish with a few upgraded components and happily ride with the stock setup. My 1200 GSA has been all the way to India. With the additional modes, and as the dynamic suspension reacts to the mode changes, it makes a good difference in bike handling.

The other is also to keep your luggage and bike as light as possible. Seen many single riders on GSA's with - 2 spare tyres + tents + jerry cans + the full touratech catalog - in the middle of Kazakhstan with a broken shock absorber. . Keep it simple.

 

[Deleted account 250319001]

The other is also to keep your luggage and bike as light as possible. Seen many single riders on GSA's with - 2 spare tyres + tents + jerry cans + the full touratech catalog At Costa Coffee, with a broken shock absorber. . Keep it simple.

Fixed

 

[MotoRevive]

BMW shocks are crap. They always fail. I lost count how many I changed under warranty.

T-Tech pays his mortgage by repairing them.

Ohlins shocks are lovely. But they ARE NOT durable. They are designed for performance not a RTW trip.

Forget the ESA. It adds complexity and fragility to your bike. RTW is a marathon. Not a race.

You want something simple, built to the correct weight and re-buildable.

Maybe leave the BMW and buy a Jap bike.. :/

 

[Deleted account 250319001]

BMW shocks are crap. They always fail. I lost count how many I changed under warranty.

T-Tech pays his mortgage by repairing them.

Ohlins shocks are lovely. But they ARE NOT durable. They are designed for performance not a RTW trip.

Forget the ESA. It adds complexity and fragility to your bike. RTW is a marathon. Not a race.

You want something simple, built to the correct weight and re-buildable.

Maybe leave the BMW and buy a Jap bike.. :/

Oh wow !
Thanks for your knowledge and wisdom.
Feel all warm inside now.
Fanx mate

 

[Zorro]

a late reply and a pretty obvious one but just in case it helps...
on our trip to Tibet, EBC & beyond we had a '12 TC and an '16 LC plus an 800 GSA, all with ESA. As Monkeyboy's RRs will tell you some of the roads and trails we did were pretty rough, and never ending. We had no failures. Was it luck or reliability? I can't say. However, I do know that we were all extremely aware of the seriousness of any breakdown in these very remote locations. So we all tried to ride with maximum mechanical sympathy. We did not alter our routes but when the terrain got tough we took it easy and took care of the bikes. (Apart from Monkeyboy's KTM...) the very few mechanical mishaps we had were due to human error, but that is another story...
I'd go with whatever you feel most comfortable with and look after it. Good luck with the ride