Suspension life

[SpyInTheCamp]

Anyone out there know how long the OE shocks last before replacement (or refurb, if possible) is due?

My 2 year old GS has done over 22k miles and I'm beginning to wonder whether the rear shock is on its way out.

TVM

Kai

 

[Wicker]

Shock life on a GS probably depends what you have been doing with the bike. Any off-roading?

The original (rear) shock on my R1100S lasted 36k miles before an oil seal failed. I replaced the rear shock however the front was still the original until I replaced both at 60k with a set of (slightly used) Hyperpro race shocks which I acquired at a reasonably low price via e-Bay. The difference between (worn) standard and good quality aftermarket shocks surprised me. Bike felt rejuvenated & tracks so much better through the bends. Only downside is in terms of the stiffer suspension being less comfortable over the lumpier Scottish roads.

The rear shock on my R1200ST was replaced by BMW under warranty at
12k. The bike had started to feel odd in distinctly odd in bends.

 

[SpyInTheCamp]

I've done some offroading, but mainly trails and not so much anyway.

My last bike was a Honda VFR800 (not the VTEC ) which managed around 20k miles before the rear shock was finished. No real comparison, I'd expect the GS to last longer given the all round and off road parts of its character and spec. But then again ...

Kai

 

[nedflanders]

Shock life as has been said depends on what you do with it, average for a sportsbike before the shock goes off is about 3 years and the average sportsbike rider will probably never see 20K anyway. Lots of off road and 2up is gonna speed things up, if tyre pressures are ok and your noticing a difference then the shock is probably gone, might be worth seeing how much a rebuild is rather than a new unit

 

[littleredrooster]

Anyone out there know how long the OE shocks last before replacement (or refurb, if possible) is due?

My 2 year old GS has done over 22k miles and I'm beginning to wonder whether the rear shock is on its way out.

TVM

Kai

You've wound the damper adjustment screw in to compensate, yeah? My last one did 33k and felt as good as new.

 

[Gipsy]

I'm not sure how many of us are good enough riders to really know when a shock has had it, at least in the early stages!

 

[GSmonkey]

I'm not sure how many of us are good enough riders to really know when a shock has had it, at least in the early stages!

I think you've had the best out of the shock by about 20k, seems to be the case on all bikes I've had. Best thing is to get a test ride on a new machine and make your mind up. Any improved handing perceived from the new machine will generally be down to the shocks.

 

[Deleted account 211025001]

I asked a similar question here.

5,000 miles further on and I've yet to replace the shock

Andres

 

[Rushy]

I'm not sure how many of us are good enough riders to really know when a shock has had it, at least in the early stages!

You are right. I think mine is knackered but i'm not good enough to tell the difference.

My rear shock (1150GS) has done best part of 30k now with 35% of that 2 up and fully loaded.

I also have a sudden vagueness around the front as if there is a big block of rubber somewhere between the bars and the front wheel. The bike seems to sort of 'hinge' or 'wobble' around the front end especially under braking or when hitting a bump when cranked over. Its causing me to lose a lot of confidence in the front end.

Could do with someone good riding it and telling me what they think

 

[Pukmeister]

I noticed a fall off in my shocks performance, especially the front, at 24k. I fitted a set of Wilbers units as replacements and the bike is totally transformed for £650, it rides better than it did when I got it.

The front shock has a softer spring coupled with better damping over stock. IMHO the stock front spring is too stiff and the stock damping is not sufficient, giving a harsh feel to the front. It gives a much smoother and more responsive ride.

The replacement rear has a stronger spring and better damping and floats nicely over poor surfaces, most notably when loaded or with a pillion.

 

[Gipsy]

Loads of peeps on here change shocks way before they are shagged, because they feel the bike is more compsed with after market ( and expensive ) units with famous names such as Ohlins. A far better use of the money would be to get a professional to set the bike up for you. Not cheap, but well worth the money. Not only are the shock set ups personalised for you, but springs can be changed to take account of weight. Just altering the preload does not set the suspension up correctly for the overweight amongst us. The unit will have to work alongside a correctly chosen spring. Just as an example of how difficult suspension can be it remember that the Moto Gp racers have at least one specialised technician just for suspension. Unless a suspension unit is well and truly fecked, I fail to see how just bolting on another albeit more expensive one is going to help unless correctly set up.

 

[GedJack]

I went to MAXTONS in Chesire, and they set built and set a rear shock up according to my weight and riding style. They offer a very professional and quality service, highly recommended.

Regards Gedjack.

 

[Sergeant Pluck]

Loads of peeps on here change shocks way before they are shagged, because they feel the bike is more compsed with after market ( and expensive ) units with famous names such as Ohlins. A far better use of the money would be to get a professional to set the bike up for you. Not cheap, but well worth the money. Not only are the shock set ups personalised for you, but springs can be changed to take account of weight. Just altering the preload does not set the suspension up correctly for the overweight amongst us. The unit will have to work alongside a correctly chosen spring. Just as an example of how difficult suspension can be it remember that the Moto Gp racers have at least one specialised technician just for suspension. Unless a suspension unit is well and truly fecked, I fail to see how just bolting on another albeit more expensive one is going to help unless correctly set up.

I don't fully agree with this. First up, you won't get different springs to suit, because the stock units are non-serviceable, chuck-away jobs. Secondly, because the stock units have very limited adjustment outside of preload and are generally pretty crap anyway - setting up is not that difficult to do and certainly not worth spending money on. Either way, the difference between well set up stock units and well set up aftermarket shocks is huge, especially if the stock units are past their best. I'd have said that it would be worth spending money getting decent aftermarket suspension set up properly - because they are much more sensitive to adjustment, and are far easier to get wrong if you're not sure what you're doing. *EDIT* All that is true for the 1150, and I guess the 12's too - I'm led to believe the OEM's on the 12 are even cheaper units than those on the 11xx's.

FWIW - My rear was past it's best by 30k, my front completely knackered by about 40. 1150.

Pluck

 

[Pukmeister]

Wilbers shocks are built to YOUR weight, riding style and specification and have far more adjustability and better damping than a stock unit. Mine were built to suit my weight plus 35Kg of luggage and have a reduction of half an inch of ride height.

IMHO the stock suspension has to compromise too much for all shapes/sizes and suffers as a result. I was told by John Gaskell at Revs that the Wilbers units are worth buying over a similar brand because of being tailored to fit "from the box".

He could have tried to sell me some more expensive Swedish shocks with a bright yellow spring if he wanted to, but he said it may not be worth it because they need further expense to tailor them to my needs over the Wilbers brand (i.e. new spring and shim stack (plus fitting and Vat)).

A set of Wilbers shocks front and rear (with a remote hydraulic preload adjuster on the rear) will cost £690 inc vat and delivery. Fitting is extra but a half decent home mechanic can do it in a couple of hours. Every Accessory (AKA Revs suspension services) offer a free professional set-up service once fitted. I've yet to take them up on that but I'll be getting mine set up very soon once the floods subside.

 

[littleredrooster]

.....I'm led to believe the OEM's on the 12 are even cheaper units than those on the 11xx's.....

WP units (formerly known as White Power - the ONLY units to have on a sidecar motocross outfit a couple of years back). Way better than the Showa things on 1150s.

 

[Vern]

Rear shock 140000 miles
Front shock 174000 miles

Still better than 70's jap stuff when I changed them though.Spoilt for choice these days

 

[Rushy]

I don't fully agree with this. First up, you won't get different springs to suit, because the stock units are non-serviceable, chuck-away jobs. Secondly, because the stock units have very limited adjustment outside of preload and are generally pretty crap anyway - setting up is not that difficult to do and certainly not worth spending money on. Either way, the difference between well set up stock units and well set up aftermarket shocks is huge, especially if the stock units are past their best. I'd have said that it would be worth spending money getting decent aftermarket suspension set up properly - because they are much more sensitive to adjustment, and are far easier to get wrong if you're not sure what you're doing. *EDIT* All that is true for the 1150, and I guess the 12's too - I'm led to believe the OEM's on the 12 are even cheaper units than those on the 11xx's.

FWIW - My rear was past it's best by 30k, my front completely knackered by about 40. 1150.

Pluck

My thoughts exactly. It might make a difference setting up something like a Gixer thou or a 1098S properly because there is infinitely more adjustment and they are probably more sensitive to fine tuning. There is no way I would pay somebody to turn the knob on my preload round a few times and turn the rebound damping screw a qtr of a turn. It doesnt make that much of a difference and I can do that myself.'

If investing money in decent suspension then it would probably make good sense to get that set up properly though.

 

[Carstairs]

Handling problems

You are right. I think mine is knackered but i'm not good enough to tell the difference.

My rear shock (1150GS) has done best part of 30k now with 35% of that 2 up and fully loaded.

I also have a sudden vagueness around the front as if there is a big block of rubber somewhere between the bars and the front wheel. The bike seems to sort of 'hinge' or 'wobble' around the front end especially under braking or when hitting a bump when cranked over. Its causing me to lose a lot of confidence in the front end.

Could do with someone good riding it and telling me what they think

Hey Rushy,
Did you find out what was causing the problem ? I have an 05 1200GS which is displaying similar handling issues, The feel is like a) the fr & rear wheels are eliptical, b) tyres lack grip as if washing out c) most noticable cranked over in roundabouts, d) hinge in the middle of the frame. Very unpleasant :
Have checked all the obvious thngs like tyre pressures, run out, wheel bearings, swing arm play etc.
Would love to know what is causing the problem.