Suspension set up assistance please.

[Armstrong]

Hi All
I am sure that you all get asked this many many times, but here goes another time.
Got my 1100GS this week without a manual "now on order from Motorworks"
Can anyone please give me some basic guidelines and settings for the front and rear shock settings for compression and damping on rear. I ride on my own and with pillion.
I know this is allways subjective, but some starters would be appreciated.
Cheers
Nick

 

[JohnC]

Hi Nick. tbo the standard (very basic) showa suspension on the 1100 (all GS's?) is pretty crude by modern standards, with a five setting preload adjustment on the front and continuously variable (snigger ) rebound damping and 'adjustable hydraulic' spring preload on the rear. I always leave the front on the softest setting as it doesnt seem to make 'that' much of a difference with the telelever. For the rear I use about half preload and half rebound solo, with just about/or full preload/rebound two up with gear. The rear is just about up to the job solo but you'll easily find its limits (bottoming out on bumpy roads) two up with gear. FYI I'm 15 stone and my gf is about 11. I'd buy Ohlins (etc) in a minute (and will at some stage), apart from GS'er feedback stating that replacing the front shock makes little difference, and with the rear it seems you'll have to decide if you want a set up for either solo use or for two up use. As I want to use the bike for mainly solo use but with 4/5 weeks two up touring/camping per year, this has stopped me buying a replacement, at least until the OE stuff gives up the ghost. I guess it depends very much on the state of the present OE kit.

HTH

John

 

[Armstrong]

Hi and Thanks John
On the rear damping adjustment, does the screw have a max and min stop, or does it just keep going from min to max every 360 deg turn ?
Also do you know what the rose jointed arm is on the back of the headlight, which attatches to the telelever ? is it some sort of self leveling adjustment or just a brace ?
cheers for your assistance so far, most helpful.
Nick.

 

[JohnC]

The rear screw will keep turning a few times until it stops, not sure how many turns or if just 360 but it will stop , so I guess it's a linear adjustment. I
think the hl brace is just that m8, but perhaps someone else can answer this one for deff

 

[Armstrong]

Cheers John
Thanks M8

 

[simonm]

.....For the rear I use about half preload and half rebound solo, with just about/or full preload/rebound two up with gear.....

If you've got more weight wouldn't you need less rebound?
I realise you've maxed the preload to compensate for extra weight, but thats just adjusting your static sag.
Having said that, my experience has been that the rebound on the OEM shock only seems to make any difference in the last 1\4 turn.

 

[JohnC]

If you've got more weight wouldn't you need less rebound?
I realise you've maxed the preload to compensate for extra weight, but thats just adjusting your static sag.
Having said that, my experience has been that the rebound on the OEM shock only seems to make any difference in the last 1\4 turn.

Yes it seems to be the last part turn that makes a 'slight' difference. As the rebound adjuster helps controls the speed at which the shock returns after compression, I think it slighlty helps alleviate the pogo effect which comes with being very heavily laden. Rebound should be set so he shock returns as fast as possible without pushing you out the seat. Again it doesnt seem to make 'that' much difference with the OE shock

 

[Armstrong]

Ok chaps
Will give the adjusters a good fiddle with and see what it does for me.
Where are your current preloads currently set for the front and back for Solo.
Cheers Nick,

 

[jaber]

jaber

Heyup me duck ave a look at mica peak.com on the 1100 site it tells you just what you need to know!

 

[simesman]

Shocking.......

Moosehead, get a bike with good suspension......

Yer old mate Simes.

 

[(RIP) Kaister]

I've had two recent 1100's now and both of them - for some reason - have sheared the damper adjuster after periods of being left alone.

I guess its internal corrosion of the shock body and steel screw.

Anyway - my point is that the damper oil is forced through a needle type orifice. What this will give you will be a more exponential than linear damping rate.

Screw the screw in hard - and the oils got nowhere to go - hence harder to move the piston
open it a little bit - and it'll soften it up

open it up just a little bit more and the holes got much bigger - hence much softer for the same turn of the screw.

does this make sense ?

 

[Armstrong]

Yep it sure does, thanks MotoMartin
Nick.

 

[Armstrong]

Hey Simesman you fool.
That bike may have good suspension, but it looks F#####g uncomfortble to ride, and you won't get much fuel in that pissy little tank. You want to sell it b4 you get farmer giles.
MH

 

[simesman]

Steve Murch